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My driver's side door mirror is working a bit loose. I can see that the inner door panel only clips in and can be easily removed, but the door handle and window wind handle need removing first. Should they just pull off?

 

Darren

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To get those handles off you need to press on the black escutcheon which will reveal the square part of the handle and you'll see a pin which goes through the handle and the winder (or lock) spindle. You need to push this out, I use a scriber and remove it carefully. The handle will now pull off. Replacement is the reverse procedure. I use a surgical clamp to replace the pin (assuming I haven't lost the blinking thing) but there is other advice on the forum such as using welding rod in lieu of the pin. Good luck.

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Hi I use the wedrod method, night mare job what ever you do

 

Length of 1/8 weld rod

Cut it half way through the same length as the pin

Push through hole

And bend the rod so it snaps were you cut it

 

Hope this helps pink

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Thanks Pete, Pinky. Blimey, there was me thinking it would be a piece of cake. Nothing is ever as straightforward as it might appear.

 

"Don't panic" . . . you know me too well Roger.

 

Cheers, Darren

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My driver's side door mirror is working a bit loose. I can see that the inner door panel only clips in and can be easily removed, but the door handle and window wind handle need removing first. Should they just pull off?

 

Darren

Depends on what type of mirrors you have? maybe no need to pull the cards.

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Darren. Once you get the hang of it it's not bad. Easier than getting the trim clips to line up when replacing the door cards.

Edited by peejay4A
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I've got ones that say: "REGD. DESIGN NO 994295 WINGARD". I'm hoping that I don't need to pull the cards, because I'm damned if I can see how to remove those handles as yet. What do you reckon Neil?

 

Darren

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You need to push quite hard on the black estucheon to reveal the square drive and the pin. More so if they've been fitted properly with the felt pad and the springs behind the door card.

I use a pin punch to push them out.

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Hi Darren,

 

The cards will have to come off to tighten the mirror post or swivel detent. The former is done via nut; the latter by a setscrew.

 

I use a 1/8" thick 2"x3" rectangular slice of hardwood with a U-shaped cutout in the short side, pushed between the handle and the black plastic disc to reveal the pin. Pushing on the handle ( against a spring behind the card ) then releases the pin which is easily pushed through into the cutout with a wire or small screwdriver. Refitting is the reverse; I use a needle nose plier to fit the pin.

 

Plastic could substitute for the hardwood; 1/8" thick either way. This bit makes a terrible job pretty easy ;)

 

Cheers,

Tom

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Darren,

 

Take care prying them loose as the board stock doesn't take much to break. I'd mask the adjacent painted surfaces and use a putty knife with care.

 

This of course after you've removed the handles :P

 

Oh, and while you're in there ( WYIT over here in the 'States ) you have an opportunity to fit TR4 door pulls ( they need a captive nut fitted behind the holes in the doors for that purpose ). I soldered the nuts to a strip of steel and pop-riveted them in place behind the inner door skin.

 

Cheers,

Tom

post-1059-0-12766500-1432926207_thumb.jpg

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Hi Stan,

 

If you're referring to the mirror anchor point - yes, with difficulty and a hatha yoga predilection!

 

Tom

 

Cool. I thought with the TR6 doors you couldnt get in there even if you were fortunate enough to have married a contortionist. I know my RHS bullet mirror is attached with sheet metal screws around that same spot.

 

Stan

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The 250/5 mirror has a large nut behind and they are difficult enough to do up in the right place with a stripped door shell, with window right up you can just get a spanner up behind if its a short one. Good luck and while you are in there check that the sound deadening pad is in place on the skin and there is plenty of waxoyl (or similar) inside and the water curtain is in place.

The TR4 door pulls are a very worthwhile mod and if Roger can get round to making the cage nuts then it will make it even easier to fit them.

Stuart.

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Thanks for all the additional replies. Apologies for being a bit dim here, but backtracking a little, when Pete says "press on the black escutcheon", does that mean: A) Squeeze/pinch it in? or B ) Push it backwards away from the chrome part of the handle? or C) Push the card back from the escutcheon? I imagine from what Tom says that it's B from this list. Is that right?

 

When a "pin" was mentioned, I was picturing something like a split pin pushed through a hole between handle and crack, but having looked at a couple of YouTube videos about removal, I think I'm mistaken. Is it a horseshoe type pin that I'm looking for? If so, there are videos showing how to use a U-shaped gadget like Tom mentions - specifically:

 

 

Will something like this work on my handles? If so, I take it it needs to be slipped between the handle and the escutcheon (plastic piece), right?

 

I know, it's like pulling teeth :blink:

 

Darren

Edited by TR5tar
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Hi Darren. You push the black plastic escutcheon away from the handle, towards the outside of the car. There's a spring behind the door card that pushes the card away from the inner door skin so there should be enough give in the card to expose the part of the handle that has the pin through it. The pin is just a short piece of plain rod, originals have a taper at one end to help in replacing it. It just pushes into place and the escutcheon stops it from working its way out when the spring pushes the door card inwards, away from the door. You won't get a spring pin in as the escutcheon is a close fit, as is the pin in the hole which stops the handle from flopping around.

 

When you've done it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about. Honest.

Edited by peejay4A
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, after a couple of weeks thinking about it (I never move too fast) and making the tool suggested by Tom, with the cut out U shape to hold the escutcheon away from the handle, today I finally got around to doing the job of tightening the door mirror. One of the reasons I didn't want to tackle it earlier was that I had places to go in the car and I knew that once I'd started taking things to bits it would take another week at least to put it back together again.

 

As I had the window wound down, I thought I'd get a torch, look down the window gap, and see the position of the nut before I set about tackling it. When I bought the 1/8 inch Perspex to make the U shaped tool, I also bought a surgical clamp (as suggested by Pete). Looking down the gap, I thought if I could get something between the gap to hold the nut I might be able to tighten it like that, and that's when I found that the surgical clamp was perfect. I know it's not as good a job as it should be, but it's pretty tight.

 

They say "necessity is the mother of invention", but I'd suggest that it's either "inability" or "laziness".

 

Thanks again for all the tips, and I will have a go at doing it properly soon!

 

Darren

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