Jump to content

Awful driving position


Recommended Posts

20 odd years ago my TR4 had 4A seats and a wood rim steering wheel. That was the last time I drove it.

 

After getting an heritage cert and researching a bit I found out my car would have had red 3A seats, so I bought some and had them covered in expensive leather, as per original. They look the business.

 

Scroll forward to today and I have replaced the steering wheel back to the original to match the restored white dash. The problem is that with the big steering wheel and the high sprung seat base it is a real struggle to even get in the car. And when I eventually do get in my driving position is tortuous! If I take the top off I'm looking over the top of the windscreen surround and the base is pinging and crunching and I'm bouncing around like Princess and the Pea.

 

Let me explain that I have ducks disease. ie a long body and short legs, and in my everyday car I have the seat at its lowest position. I would estimate that I need my arse to be about 3 inches off the carpet.

 

I know I should get some MX5 seats but are these low enough? And are TR3 seats normally that bad? Whats the diameter of a standard black and wire steering wheel?

 

While I'm on the subject....is it me or is the accelerator pedal miles being the brake pedal? As anyone modded their pedal? I cant leave it like this :o :o its bloody awful.

 

Nick

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe you could recover the seat base using foam, rather than the original springs and horsehair. The foam could be tailored to lower the driving position. Then maybe a wood rimmed steering wheel closer to the dash?

 

Dan

Edited by 2long
Link to post
Share on other sites

Big gap between brake and accelerator pedal, not easy to use "roll" of the foot control using inside and outside of sole. You can actually use the "heel and toe" method by splaying your foot sidewards but you naturally want to use your toe outwards which means your less sensitive heel is left on the brake.

 

Fold a piece of steel about 3" long into a U shape making it wide enough to close up the gap between the pedals side by side. Then fit it with the U pointing downwards and secure from the side to the side of the accelerator pedal (I used two hefty rivets on my TR4). Then you can "roll" your foot using the sole for both braking and accelerating.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to bend the accelerator pedal towards you, but, in order not to break the pin which holds the mechanism together (on the engine side of the bulkhead), you must put a wooden block between the bulkhead and the arm (on the cockpit side) so that the bending force is taken there.

Once you have got the accelerator into the position which suits you, the addition of a plate which brings the bottom edge of the accelerator closer to the brake pedal, will permit heel-and-toe operation, with toe on the brake and heel on the accelerator.

In years gone by, Paddy Hopkirk used to sell the useful plate to be fixed to the accelerator, but it's not difficult to make one from a piece of scrap metal as little force is applied to the accelerator pedal.

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect your seats have been rebuilt with the repro spring bases which are much to high and springy. MX5 seats and the fitting brackets from the technicalities CD will sit you much lower and give plenty of fore and aft movement as well as being more comfortable.Im 6.4" and sit low enough not to be looking over the screen. Standard steering wheel is 15" though I have herald one as its got a little bit more dish on it. My pedal set was converted from L/hand drive original so I bent all the pedals around so they are in a better line to suit me. I always notice the difference when driving other TR`s

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
Link to post
Share on other sites

I always found 3A seats in the TR3A comfortable, but to lower the position (and avoid stones embedding themselves in my forehead), I used cable ties to partly compress the springs in the seat base.

 

Mind you MX5 in the TR4 are even better!

 

:)

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks peeps,

 

As usual some nice practical ideas.

 

Mick, my beef about the accelerator pedal is that its to far below the brake pedal and you have to lift your right heel off the floor and make a big movement using your whole leg to go from one to the other. Mind you, I discovered yesterday that when the pedal is floored the butterflies are only half open.

 

I'm going to have to careful look at the pedals and carb linkages as my car was also once LHD - but thats the one area I havent had apart!

 

Mike I like the cable tie idea - thats this afternoons project. And its reassuring Stuart that you can see through the windscreen and you are 6'4". If my legs were in proportion to my body I think I would be 6'4".

 

Thanks for the picture Ian. I need to get under and compare with mine because your 'go' pedal doesnt look that far behind the brake.

 

Nick

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick - by the time my brake pedal has been depressed to commence applying pressure to the hydraulics, it is about level with the accelerator and I can then twist my foot anti-clockwise and kick the accelerator with my heel.

To bend the accelerator pedal towards you, slightly depress the accelerator pedal and place a wooden block between the bulkhead and the part of the lever above the pivot point (top left in photo), then pull the pedal towards the seat - don't overdo it!

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can alter the height of the throttle pedal by careful adjustment of the linkage underbonnet but make sure that when fully depressed you arent straining the linkage. A stop on the toeboard may be required or if there is one fitted then it may need altering. Also check that the butterflies fully open.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My 4 had Tr3 buckets and the driver seat had the spring set removed and replaced by foam as suggested. It was Ok for height as a result. I say had 3 seats as the seat backs are very low and not supportive. So now I have Mx5 like everyone else and find them very comfortable. On my to do list is to reduce their height though as I still find them a little high, but not so high that need to do them ahead of all the other things to do.

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update on this.

 

1) I've managed to locate some red MX5 seats and they will be going in when I can get round to sorting the brackets. MUCH better to sit on - even on my living room floor.

 

2) My steering wheel is 16" so may try buying a 13" moto lita black leather one off ebay. I hope the steering wont be too heavy!

 

3) I found the accelerator problem. It was a combination of a worn pivot point, incorrect pivot mount bracket and play in the cotter/taper? pin on the end of the pedal bar. A usual, one step forward two steps back :(

 

Can anyone remember the name of the guy who was making the seat brackets? I'm never going to get back on the road at this rate :angry: :angry:

Link to post
Share on other sites

The pattern for the brackets is in section N trim on the technicalities CD . The guy that was making them is Smeggie but havent seen him on here for quite a while.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen the one in the CD Stuart and wondered if I might regret that extra height. Also it seems easier, if I'm making them, to just make a flat plate with studs.

 

I appreciate you are tall but have you got supermodel legs and a short body? :rolleyes:

Made mine from flat plate and studs. Bit of a phaff getting the positioning of the studs right but they work really well with the Mx5 seats. Low as possible with full fore and aft adjustment. I'm 6' and find the seating position very comfortable.

Alan.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a quick update on this.

 

 

2) My steering wheel is 16" so may try buying a 13" moto lita black leather one off ebay. I hope the steering wont be too heavy!

 

 

It was for me. I've gone back to a standard wheel. It's much nicer to drive or maybe I need more Weetabix.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen the one in the CD Stuart and wondered if I might regret that extra height. Also it seems easier, if I'm making them, to just make a flat plate with studs.

 

I appreciate you are tall but have you got supermodel legs and a short body? :rolleyes:

No Im normal shape 6.4" and those brackets are fine for me, they are also strong as I have found in practice all the others are too flimsy and will not stand up to much heavy use and also tend to make the floors stress crack round the mounts. The ones on the CD you could pull the Titanic with, much safer.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is your standard wheel 16" though Pete?

 

Nick

I use a Herald wheel, looks like a standard TR4 one but is slightly more dished and is 15".

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am a Coach Trimmer by trade and agree that it is best and easy to tie the springs down but I would suggest a small gauge wire as the cable ties may break and you will then have an ejector seat. Tie every spring to height desired. Good luck.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick,

I suggest having a look at the many previous forum mentions of MX5 seats, including this one.

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=17178

 

Never heard of ducks disease before but on that description I must have a slight case myself. I'm only 6'1 1/2" and with MX5 seats fitted on similar mounting brackets my eye line is at the bottom of the windscreen frame surround and in fact the sun visors make me have to stoop a bit to see properly - must get around to taking them off. One suggestion I recall reading is to take a big hammer to the metal base of the MX5 seat sump and it will then mount lower still. Not tried that.

 

I might suggest that you try sitting in other members cars with them fitted to see if they suit you personally.

 

Paul

Link to post
Share on other sites

Paul

 

Dont worry I dont think Ducks disease is a recognised medical disability yet - its a term my wife laughingly applies to my short legs and long body :( .

 

At 6' 1 1/2" I think youve got very mild symptoms. I'm only 5' 10" but i my legs where in proportion I'd be an NBA basketball player.

 

Nick

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know exactly what the OP means. I was 6' 3" (and a bit) but I never had any problem driving TRs and MGBs 40 years ago. I'm still 6'3" (but no heavier) but all these restored cars are undriveable. My head's on the canvas (or looking over the windscreen) and there's no room for my thighs under the original steering wheel.

 

Why is it that when people "restore" cars they stuff the seats with so much padding that only short people can drive them? They were designed for the driver to be very low to the floor - the seats were never meant to be armchairs.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.