awind269 Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Cannot figure out problem. Ok and running well normally, but after a really hard drive the engine stalls and will not restart despite turning over and fuel pump ticking. It occurs as revs drop. It never occurs during the thrashing but after. Leave overnight and it is fine and restarts ok. Today would not restart after 1-2 hours of trying so ended up being towed home. Otherwise was running beautifully up to that point. Has happened about 6 times and normally quickly restarts in minutes. Engine rebuilt recently (not by me), facet electronic fuel pump, electric points, temp indicator fine. Plugs appeared dry and not flooded today . SU carbs been set and checked by a good mechanic. On rolling road good performance figures suggesting normal fuel delivery and correct timing. Used to think it was a fuel delivery problem but not so sure now. I am really worried that despite an oil change some 500 miles ago oil is sludging and the engine is not cooling, however no steam or hot coolant. Only occurs at 60-70 mph. It 's not burning xs oil as far as I can figure. -Fuel delivery, too much or to little ? No - Should restart quickly if a transient problem and it has nice clean grey plugs, not wet, black or brown -Intermittent blockage in fuel delivery or vacuum up-stream due to poor air entry behind fuel. No - unlikely as should restart quickly. -Timing, leads, points, plugs checked and checked again. -Choke lead is def not maladjusted leaving it open. -Hot engine ? The temp indicator says probe temp ok it will not tell me engine temp in other areas so plan to use IR sensor on casing. Could this possibly cause the problem and is the engine being damaged ? Despairingly I am completely out of ideas on this, so if anybody has a bright idea let me know. Had my TR4 since 89 and every time it gets closer to being reliable something happens, it is driving me mad with its uncanny ability to throw curve balls at me. I think its spiteful. My Herald is a perfect motor compared to this ...*$$^&**. Shropshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
awind269 Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 PS New battery, leads and coil. I know sometimes a condensor can cause a problem on old points (is this poss with electronic points, which I have ?). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) Is the coil still mounted to the engine? They tend to overheat, causing that sort of problems. Relocate the coil to the inner wing and see what happens. Menno Edited May 17, 2015 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
derekh Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 I had a similar problem years ago on a Citroen. Eventually traced to a break in the LT wire to the coil. Seemed to be OK cold but lost connection when engine stopped hot and re-connected when everything had thoroughly cooled down. Derek. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Try starting by squirting some fuel (or "easystart" spray into the carb intakes. Easy enough to do. If it starts, or tries to, then it's a petrol supply problem somewhere. If it doesn't, then work your way through the electrics. After a bit of a blast, the engine compartment will get hotter than it does in normal use as there is no forced cooling. That shouldn't lead to problems, but it can. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 I would have thought the fuel pump would stop ticking when the float chambers are full? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 If you have electronic ignition fitted then I would try reverting back to points first. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 What carbs are you running? Sounds like dirt in slow running jets - fine when you blip the throttle but dies when left to tick over Agree cars seem to have a mind of their own: running well? lets see what the car can find to frustrate you? Good luck Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 If you have electronic ignition fitted then I would try reverting back to points first. Stuart. +1 Tell us what those 'electric points' are. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
awind269 Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Thanks guys. Will reflect on your useful suggestions and get back to you on points query. Leads, battery, and coil are all < 18 months old. Pressure reg on fuel pump set at 1.5 whatever that is (bar?) . Do not think this is the problem even if set too low, as played with it up and down and it made no difference plus would expect a quick restart for pressure problems rather than a delightful 2 hrs by the roadside loving my obliging little TR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Have you checked for a spark when it plays up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) Is (are) the metal part(s) of the fuel line alongside the exhaust at any spots where the 'hard drive' could heat the line and vaporize the fuel. Vaguely recall a similar problem in the 4A was a bit of crud in the tank, that partially blocked the fuel outlet on an intermittent basis , but that tended to occur when the fuel level was low. Reports on the forum also have mentioned that old rubber fuel line can delaminate and produce intermittent blockages or partial petrol starvation. Hope you track it down. Edited May 19, 2015 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 ""My Herald is a perfect motor compared to this ...*$$^&**."" My Herald runs like a Rolls Royce compared to my 4a. And my GT6 for that matter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
awind269 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Progress report. Sparks good to distributor, no spark to plugs. Therefore problem with distributor cap or rotor arm or Magna spark electronic ignition. Told if current good (which It is) rubbish chinese components fail and short so plan to replace cap, arm and brass ring which is part of electronic ignition. Will report back. Lesson for me; intermittent electrical failure can mimic fuel problem. Plugs def wet so getting fuel in. Will report back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRWTR4a Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Hi. I had a similar issue last year, would run for 20 minutes just long enough to get far enough from home little !$£". Thought of every eventuality like you. I put her away for the winter and started again in the spring. Broke down on way to MOT. AA man in a van diagnosed burnt out rotor arm on 123 ignition after an hours playing with every possible combination our heads could think of. Towed home. 3 rotor arms now in stock and problem sorted. The bad one looked fine until the black resin in the arm was scrapped way to reveal a totally burnt out section. Live and learn the joys of Tr4A ownership. Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Don't blame the car - most elusive ignition problems are due to so-called 'upgrade' electronic parts. Standard ignition system works just fine, spares cheap and easy to carry and is simple to maintain and fix at the roadside if it does fail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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