rogerowen Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 I'm just about to use the Frost Restoration Fuel Tank Sealer Kit, and I,ve checked out some of the on-line step by step guides - but, I have one unaswered concern. Using masking or duct tape to block off the outlet hole, drain hole and the vent hole will mean that the threads of each will get coated with sealer - and I'm guessing this will set hard making it difficult to replace the fittings. I suppose I could protect the threads with 'Blu-Tak' - but this might run the risk of the sealer welding itself to the 'Blu-Tak' and the sealer is suposed to drain out anyway. I supposed I could try useing a 'Tap' to cut back the hardened sealer, and I'm guessing that the threads are 1/2 " BSP ??????????????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 I personally wouldn't use it. Had 3 tanks recently that have all blocked up with the sealant. With the added amount of ethanol I think it's breaking it down. For how much it costs get a new tank Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted May 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 That's a bit of a worry! When I first researched it I found lots of good reviews. New tank is £250 +, sealing kit is £55. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Sealed my tank about 10 years ago and have yet to find any bits in the fuel filter. Also sealed the tank in the Jensen with Red Kote a few years ago, at the time bits of rust used to block the filter, so far so good. no signs of blue. I think it's a latex rubber sealer, just tape off all the opes as directed you won't have any problem screwing in the fittings, dry fit everything before final assembly to be sure. Lob in a few stones or sockets and give the tank a good shake to shift any flaking bits of rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Personally I use the Moss sealant which being a US product is for Ethanol type fuels. AS long as the tank is steam cleaned out first then it works well its not difficult to clear the threads before it goes right off. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 I used a sealer called Slosh Tank Sealer after cleaning the inside. This was in the 20 years ago and there has been no leak since. These tanks were well know for rusting at the base and allowing petrol fumes into the inside. I repaired one for a friend with filler on the outside because they were on the way to Newhaven for a channel crossing. It worked for the holiday but we do not know how long overall. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn_Howard Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 I also used Rustbusters 'Slosh' system to renovate a tank three years ago. It did a great job of de-rusting and resealing and I've not spotted any crud in my fuel filter since. I used duct tape to mask the holes. I didn't even think about protecting the threads but I had no problems connecting it back up afterwards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Thanks everyone, that's very encouraging! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 I did my tank >10 years ago. No problems. Would only add to work in well ventilated area as the solvents are prettY nasty. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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