2long Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Doing a bit of a backyard rebuild of the front suspension. I found two used wishbone arms to replace the two worn ones I had, and all four are now at the machine shop getting re-bushed at the trunnion end. I learned that a trunnion is a kingpin, depending on which side of the pond you live on! I learned it backwards for a yank! My question pertains to the health of my vertical links, which are old but as far as I know unbent and not causing problems. I am inspecting for cracks around the top of the thread going into the trunnion and wear on the stub axle. I think mine are ok, but if anyone can glean anything from these photos, or give me other tips of what to look for I would appreciate it. I want to keep these "two-eared" links! Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Hi Dan, those look pretty good to my untrained eye. I think the weak area in these vertical links is the thread at the bottom. When they get worn they are a loose fit even in a new trunnion so that would be one test. Screw them into a trunnion and if they go in square and you dont have a lot of lateral slop, that would be good. Somewhere I saw some pictures of good and bad thread profiles but I dont recall if the sharper profile meant more wear or if it was the blunt profile. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) My old one was bent at the start of the threaded section. So when screwed in a trunnion, you definitly could see it "wiggle" in the trunnion when turning. the eye at the top should stay in a direct line with the trunnion, else during steering there would be lots of friction. PS still thankful for the one i was able to buy from you ! Edited April 21, 2015 by EdwinTiben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) Same as Edwin, I had one that was bent at the base of the threaded section, i bought a replacement S/H one in good condition from Revington. Rgds Ian Edited April 21, 2015 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted April 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 One additional question. On reassembly, the workshop manual (page 7 of front suspension section) says that when assembling the front hub and bearings, the castellated nut should be tightened to 10 lbs. ft. and then slacked off 1 1/2 to 2 flats according to the position of the split pin hole. I have an annotation hand written in my manual that says this is an error and I should only slacken off 1/2 flat. Is this correct? I have the TR2 Lockheed wire wheel hubs. Thanks - I don't want to screw this up! Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Hi Dan, if you can see cracking at the trunnion thread run out then obviously they will be scrap; but I would be surprised if you could see the cracking with the naked eye. More importantly is the amount of corrosion on the radius area - you don't want any corrosion. The trunnion thread should be flat topped and the profile of the thread is uniform. If the lower contact surface of the thread looks indented, curved, or misshaped then you are into replacement soon. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 The verticle links look ok. A close look at the threads will tell if they are worn. New ones I think should have a flat crest as opposed to pointed. Some 25 years ago I bought undersized trunnions for slightly worn v links. Might be the way to go if yours are worn. Can't recall where I bought them. If they're not available in U S the TR shop may be able to help. If you are concerned about cracks get them crack tested. Dye penetrant at be available online if you want to do it yourself. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 I was told (By lukas from the TR shop) that the current (2013) Moss trunnions were slightly undersize. I used these undersize trunnions, & found the steering too stiff, so after a few weeks (hoping it would "wear in" - it didn't) I dismantled, & used some fine grinding paste to lap in the trunnions. This eased off the fit enough to be usable. It is still on the tight side of optimum now, but rather that than loose. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian-nz Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Hi Dan While the suspension is apart you should have both the vertical links and stub axles crack tested. I didn't and as a consequence had a vertical link snap about 2 inches of the thread in the trunnion. Fortubnately only doing 30kph at the time and no other damage done but could have been more serious at a higher speed. I also replaced the wheel bearing as a matter of course. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Thanks for the replies. I often find myself lazily forgetting to use the search feature of the forum, which often answers my own questions. Seems like my trunnions go in pretty smooth. It's a little hard to tell how deep in I should screw the trunnion, but obviously it can't bottom out so I will stop short of that and check for the range of motion once it's together. As far as crack testing my v-link and stub axle, I am assuming the magnaflux powder method is the way to go, so I will proceed with that. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Here is the progress so far. This vertical link screwed in fine and looks unbent. The spring housing at the top is a little bent up, and I don't know why. Also, the polyurethane upper wishbone bushes did not seem to fit tightly, so the original type of black rubber bushes were used, which fit in tightly. However, looking at them on the car they are mushroomed out a bit now that it is tightened up, so I hope that is right. I also hope they last ok - I know the poly bushes last longer, but I don't put many miles on the car. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 As my car came back together a few years ago, we had trouble getting it aligned. Turned out one of the vertical links was bent at the threaded section. Not uncommon at all. Probably due to the good-sized shunt the car experienced long before I got it. The bent section shows in this pic: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 As my car came back together a few years ago, we had trouble getting it aligned. Turned out one of the vertical links was bent at the threaded section. Not uncommon at all. Probably due to the good-sized shunt the car experienced long before I got it. Mine had a 1/8th inch shim between the upper wishbone and the ball joint on one side to fix some apparent alignment issue. I never did figure out what the problem was so I reassembled without it and I'm waiting for the adventure when I get the front end alignment done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic225 Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Hi Dan, If you wanna test them for cracks, dry powder won't do you any good. If you want to do a good inspection on these, use a wet color contrast magnetic particle and an AC Yoke or even better, put them in a wet bench and do a fluorecent MPI on them.The threaded part will give false indications with powder. yves Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted May 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Almost done. Thank goodness. Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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