Is It Me !

[RogerH]

I've been helping a friend with a few problems recently (all TR related)

 

He came round last Friday to have the lock barrels changed. Drivers side worked but was iffy, pax side couldn't be locked.

A variety of keys etc.

 

So I decide to attack the drivers door first - fitting & removing the door card and changing the lock barrel - 30minutes max

No BL**DY way

The handles have been rechromed.This includes ALL of the internal surface. I tried a Dremmel.

In the end I popped it on the lathe and sorted it good and proper.

 

The pax door - similar process - half the gubbins is missing - the unobtainium return spring and special washer (bang go my spares)

Pop it on the lathe to sort the chrome - again.

 

The boot should be easy - new handle - except that the person who installed it managed to lose the square locking peg (bang goes my spare from a new handle).

 

What could possibly go wrong with the glove box lock. This come pre-assembled - simple remove old one and fit new one

Wrong - the body is bigger than the original and the finger pull will not fit.

OK we fit the lock anyway (why why why did I do that)

 

Today the car is back to have the ignition switch lock sorted - easy peasy wrong again.

Where is the barrel, In the glove box - the bl**dy glove box does not open. The lock worked when it wasn't important but now it is locked the key will not touch it. Whilst I'm crying Gerry ( the owner) uses a bit of force and the door is opened.

Excellent , I will now put the dash screws back in (desperate measures). When I come to the screw under the door I shut the door

It took another 5 minutes to open again - remove lock this time.

The new lock barrel will not respond to the New key.

 

Next in line is the Ig switch. Easy enough to remove the whole switch from the dash. In theory you need to stick a small wire into a pre-cut hole in the body of the switch to depress a little nipple in the barrel and out she pops - you must be joking.

 

I know what to do and that doesn't include throwing it as far as possible. It took over 30 minutes to extract the old barrel.

With the barrel out it is obvious that the internals are badly churned up. No problem I have a new one.

Firstly the new one does not have a flat on the threaded part for the 'D' shaped hole.

Secondly the lovely chromed bezel (actually they are very badly cast) does not fit - it has the wrong thread.

So we have to fit the bezel that came with the new switch - it is the wrong shape but I'm not looking now.

 

Next up is the secondary bonnet latch.

You know the good one that is sold on here - well Gerry didn't know about that so he relied on Moss

The hole in the new latch does not line up with the pre-made hole in the bonnet catch bracket (both my 4 and 4A did).

It is easier to make a new lever - in fact I had one already done (not sure why - probably my last spare).

The rubber grommet has a hole in it of apprx 3/16" the operating rod is 5/32 - so it is loose enough for water to run down.

I make a grommet that works.

Fitting the operating rod is difficult as the end is bent over - no problem - I'll straighten the rod a bit ; insert and rebend.

Upon inserting I find that the rod is not long enough - it would certainly fit but you couldn't get your finger behind it to pull.

So I make a new.

All in All nothing in the kit actually fitted or was used completely useless.

 

On Friday the horns worked (well at least one did) today nothing.

I do a continuity check on the earth wires- nothing.

Upon inspection I find the lower rubber UJ has a wire bypassing the original wire but it works.

The upper UJ had one of its rather large terminals broken off - these are static connectors nothing moves - how the hell!!!!!!

Replace wire and things return to normal - Sue has a theory but that is for later.

 

I am beginning to hate this car.

 

Mad person of West London aarrgggghhhhh

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest ntc]

Roger

All the new locks are like that because most are dry

[graeme]

Have you filled in a PQI query form?

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

[Don H.]

This is why I'd have voted for a PQI based on members giving a TRR Forum thumbs up to the best quality parts. Trying to address all the **** out there seems like pounding one's head on the pavement. If those producers cared about quality we probably wouldn't be having the conversation at all. Better to reward the good 'uns.

 

Roger, I shoulda brought my car by West London a couple of years ago -- you do good work!

[RogerH]

Hi Graeme/Don,

where do you start to complain?

The lock barrels were from somebody highly recommended on here

The secondary bonnet latch was from Moss

The Ig switch is supposed to be Lucas

The handles were plated by some very good chaps that I use. For some reason the gremlins took hold.

 

The annoying thing is that they are on the same car (Always)

 

I think perhaps some people are like magnets - they end up with junk, just simply walking passed it

 

Roger

[stuart]

This is the sort of thing I have to put up with everyday of the week.

Stuart.

[RogerH]

Hi Stuart,

I know you are getting paid for it but it still isn't funny.

I came away completely knackered - time for bed I think.

 

Roger

[dykins]

I hope you received a bottle of something from your friend as a thank you gift - sounds like you need it!

[RogerH]

Hi Pete,

I shall pass your message on - hic

 

Roger

[SuzanneH]

Answer, yes. You are being taken for a mug.

[stuart]

Hi Stuart,

I know you are getting paid for it but it still isn't funny.

I came away completely knackered - time for bed I think.

 

Roger

Unfortunately I dont get paid for extra time taken either to try and find better or often return postage to send the rubbish part back for refund.

Stuart.

[AlanT]

Supports what I often say on here.

Find an NOS original or repair an original.

 

Or use something made by Roger (or me).

 

Its not too hard to make existing lock-barrels fit another key.

You can swap the wards about and also file them a bit.

I'd rather do this than use a repro-barrel.

 

Another thing is to carefully compare any repro-part with the original before fitting it.

Then send it back if its out.

[RogerH]

Hi Stuart,

it is starting to become a charity - but I think you still love it.

 

How much do you put on a rare spare part - the handle return spring etc - once gone !!!!!

 

Hi Alan,

we tinkerers have a strange life. Make something for peanuts and sell it for the same.

You then look at the big boys and weep - massive price and poorer quality.

 

Roger

[stuart]

Rare parts is always a difficult one and I never like to take the **** unlike some suppliers where its usually "HOW MUCH!" when you ask if they have an original one.

Stuart.

[monty]

Supports what I often say on here.

Find an NOS original or repair an original.

 

Or use something made by Roger (or me).

 

Its not too hard to make existing lock-barrels fit another key.

You can swap the wards about and also file them a bit.

I'd rather do this than use a repro-barrel.

 

Another thing is to carefully compare any repro-part with the original before fitting it.

Then send it back if its out.

I work part-time for a high-end vintage/classic car restorer so we get many problems with locks from Lancias to Bentleys & have always got good results from Stokes locksmiths in Cheltenham (speak to Dave). He rebuilds many for us.

Cheers.