ARP Head Studs For Low Port

[PeteT]

Hi sage ones, anyone know if I can get ARP head studs for my low port head? TR Shop just told me he thinks they are not available?

 

Regards, Pete

[harrytr5]

Try Matt of S&M Triumphs. He advertises in our Traction Mag.

Regards Harry

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

My only suggestion is that you buy two sets and throw away the longer ones. You need 6 off at 5 inch and 4 off at 9 inch for a low port.

TR2 used the same mix of 5 studs along each side of the block, whereas High Port engines used a mix of 5 longer ones down the RH (inlet & Exhaust port side)

 

So taking that to its logical conclusion ARP could create you a set from stock components that they use in the High Port kit.

 

Why the need for ARP studs?

 

Cheap head studs, nuts & washers are cheap for a reason - The original drawing calls for a pressure relief slot in the course thread of the stud that screws in the block and heat treatment to ensure strength (heat treatment causes warping and all studs must be checked and straitened post HT - adding cost) Washers must be hardened and the nuts are produced to a very high specification and strength. All these were Triumph original specs that the price cut merchants in the spares business are busilly getting wrong.

Peter W

Edited March 29, 2015 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hear hear with Peter regarding the needless specification for ARP studs or fastening equipment.

 

Unless you are thinking of some unusual engine modification or serious competition use why would you want to specify them ? The standard studs and their fastenings have proved equal to the task over the years and easily exceed the torques specified with which I've completed 4 cylinder engine rebuilds of over 20 units.(and believe me with 3 TR Register race championships wins with a 4 cylinder car I've tried some "hairy stuff").

 

I've also used ARP bolt sets for specific none TR engine builds and very good they are too often specifying torque application OF LUBED THREADS by angular measurement rather than a set torque figure. Not to be used on a TR without previous experience in their torque application and how to use it.

 

Mick Richards

Edited March 29, 2015 by Motorsport Mickey

[foster461]

I read Peter's post as advocating for the ARP fasteners.

 

Stan

[Motorsport Mickey]

Thanks Stan, see your point, but likewise as Peter W posts the standard Triumph grade studs and fastenings are of pretty decent quality and in all my 4 cylinder rebuilds I've never yet fitted a new alternative.

I do check the studs and especially the threads for "galling" (picking up and roughing of the thread surface), and/or necking (quite rare,) and clean the threads in thinners and then wire brushing and running a sharp scriber down the thread forms helps pick up any thread damage. If I do find a suspect stud I use a used quality original for replacement, (I have err... sufficient to do so).

 

Mick Richards

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Thanks Stan, see your point, but likewise as Peter W posts the standard Triumph grade studs and fastenings are of pretty decent quality and in all my 4 cylinder rebuilds I've never yet fitted a new alternative.

I do check the studs and especially the threads for "galling" (picking up and roughing of the thread surface), and/or necking (quite rare,) and clean the threads in thinners and then wire brushing and running a sharp scriber down the thread forms helps pick up any thread damage. If I do find a suspect stud I use a used quality original for replacement, (I have err... sufficient to do so).

 

Mick Richards

To clarify...

Does the original poster Peter T seek tougher studs to alleviate the head gasket issue he recently posted? ( http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/51315-unusual-head-gasket-failure/)As I read lack of liner protrusion is probably the solution to his issue.

 

 

I do not understand the need for ARP items on regular engines as the standard original spec studs, nuts & washers were good enough - Unless there is some fire breathing low ported TR engine in the offing somewhere that will take the racing world by storm.

 

The TR Spares market has seen the arrival of cheap head studs that were not to the original spec., probably the fear of such items has started this enquiry/thread. These were identified and I think the specialist have now gone back to the UK maker of the oe spec items rather than a bloke with a bit of 1/2" bar threaded each end. There has also been a batch of 'toffy metal' nuts and washers around. It was to my mind 'specialists' piling it high and selling it cheap without any idea of engineering requirements. Why pay 7 quid for a stud when you can source one that looks just the same ish for 90p. and you can still flog it at 9 quid!!! Because the cheap ones are made of elastic and come flying back....

 

Now if the OE spec. items creep up in price, the ARP ones could be the route to go.

 

Discuss

 

 

Cheers

Peter W

[PeteT]

Thanks guys, my concerns were based on some posts I spotted recently regarding new replacements breaking when torqued up. Apart from an increase in liner size to 87mm (hardly fire breathing) balancing etc, the engine will be standard. I am always concerned about replacing such critical components with so called 'modern OE spec' stuff so thought ARP was a safe bet. Do I detect a consensus around reusing the original studs if they are in good condition? Or replacing with new but standard item? Best supplier if so? Many thanks for your comments, they are gratefully received as always.

 

Regards Pete