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Looking for a good engine builder to fully recondition my TR2 engine. I am based in the North of England so local would be good, but do know some do offer pick up and return.

 

So if you have used someone and feel that you can recommend them then please let me know.

 

Has anyone used K and N in Kent?

 

 

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J@E Engines in Rossendale, have years of TR experience and expertise, the bloke that runs the place is also completely honest and trustworthy.

 

Ask for John. Also if something on your engine is worn out he will most likely have a sound replacement, they have done 3 full engine rebuilds for me over the years without any later problems.

 

 

http://www.rossendaleonline.co.uk/business/Engine_Reconditioning/J_E_Engineering-791-342-0-0.html

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My local engineering works in Sussex messed up my engine. I had copied the page from the manual explaining that the liner height was very important and there was also an illustration. But they got it wrong.

 

I thought that these engines were simple for an engine building business. So after a good deal of research, I drove it up to Racetorations. Darryl rebuilt the engine as standard and I collected it some time weeks later. Make sure that it is strapped down well if it is in a trailer! It has run faultlessly ever since. I have had ignition and carburetor problems which I hope are sorted out now. But the engine has been reliable and has no leaks. Darryl machined the rear of the crank to fit a new type of oil seal. He has an impressive workshop and some long time very skilled employees. He showed me how the original engineers in Sussex had left the liner heights a long way from correct and the car overheated at any speed over 50 mph.

 

My engine is the one part of the car that I can rely on after his rebuild. This was all in 1987. He is very good at the engines and dedicated to TRs for a long working life.

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I used Willow Triumph just along from Darlington on the A68 at Heighington for my 250 engine rebuild and am pleased with the result. He is close enough to you to go and have a chat.

Should you need any more info pl PM me

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Thanks for the replies people and for the PM's, keep them coming. I am going to pull out the engine Easter weekend and will get it booked in as soon as its out. Have had a few quotes back from some of the people mentioned and am waiting on some others.

 

regards Jack

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If I look at the TR engines I think they are bulletproof and easy to restore.

If I look at the chats and what clubmates report

I only can come to the conclusion, that it is not that easy.

 

Prices varied from 4000 to 8000 Euros for full engine restore and meanwhile I worked on a lot of

freshly restored engines that failed soon and even for these heavy prices

the companies refused to repair their faults......

 

Here is one of my last jobs, head and cylinder bores rebuild after only 1000 miles:

 

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Hope it's not what you are thinking Neil.

 

Mick Richards

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I'll third that....

 

Thankfully the can does not look like this one

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aerosols/Start_Ya_Bastard_Instant_Engine_Starter/#.VRgZ--EYPYg

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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What are you spraying in there?

 

Do not know the translation, in Germany we call it "Start Pilot"

On the WEBERs you easily run into trouble by wetting the plugs

when you do enrichment at first start with Accel fuel by hitting the pedal.

 

http://www.ebay.de/itm/STARTPILOT-AHNLICH-MOTORSTARTSPRAY-STARTHILFESPRAY-x-3-/220743634329?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

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Hi Andreas,

 

What you call Start Pilot over here has a number of names, amongst them "Easy Start" and others.

 

It is a high combustion product and used when cars suffer with low compression or starting problems. Because of it's volatility and highly combustible nature (that's why you are using it) it often has the effect of breaking piston rings and other mechanical problems. I'm sure you've used your product to great effect before but I would NEVER use it on an engine in a car that wasn't due for a fairly immediate engine rebuild and rework.

 

Mick Richards

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Does 'Start Pilot' contain the chemical 'ETHER' ?

 

The 'start pilot' type product may enable an engine to run but it is masking the real problem of why the engine will not start or run properly on the correct fuel that it is designed to use. The governing factors are fuel, compression, timing. & ignition to make an engine go.

 

It is argued that very light initial use of the 'start pilot' type product just to get an engine 'to catch' and turn on its own is not a bad thing, but the ether content is reported to cause knocking and detonation (chemists step in here please) Prolonged use once the engine is running may cause piston and cylinder head damage.

 

I am happy to be slapped down if my understanding of the 'starter pilot' type product is incorrect, but I believe it is what the toxicoigist will tell you - "It aint the product its the dose"

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

Sorry Mick beat me.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks, I understand!

 

Interesting how different opinions can be between two countries!

Here it is very common to use that spray on any race engine that has no cold start equipment.

I prefer that on first start because never too much fuel can wash the oil from cylinders and

the driver does not need to keep the engine under uncontrolled revs to activate accelfuel of WEBERS.

 

When I visited the Can-Am series at Nürburgring I could learn two things:

Most of them use that spray to start and have the MSD ignition installed.

Didnt they know what you know?

 

I do not thing the engine suffers because the filling of cylinders is bad at idle

and any pinking, what is the base of a detonation to kill the rings, was never noticed.

We do that since 40 years, I personally built about 20 race engines and never lost one from that.

 

So that seems to be a myth from the time where this ingredient was used as a chemical compressor

in the German race cars from Auto Union and Mercedes. They had in addition often a compressor or

another ingredient containing liquid oxygen to boost power.

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Hi Andreas,

 

A little research on Start Pilot, it says here that it's formulation although containing ether is modified to avoid the "total and violent conflagration associated with that product", so maybe you'll get away with it. Not for me though.

 

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=-vj8BAAAQBAJ&pg=PA174&lpg=PA174&dq=start+pilot+spray&source=bl&ots=o6VEztb8IA&sig=jMarOHIbJ_JrU_bjVx_7SV_CuTo&hl=en&sa=X&ei=7hsZVfjuF4vgaJ-EgcAF&ved=0CFcQ6AEwDA#v=onepage&q=start%20pilot%20spray&f=false

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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I think the situation becomes more clear to me:

I found a link to a Diesel application, where these above terms are used.

Diesel power is controlled by amount of fuel added,

Otto needs a proper mix of fuel and air.

 

So a Diesel can be killed by simply adding much fuel at a worse timing.

Normally the fuel is added at the Diesel like the timing of ignition:

From the point fuel is added the engine fires!

 

As the spray is added through the Diesel inlet manifold there is no control of the energy amount

and the timing the fuel will fire relies on the fuel itself controlled by its RON/ROZ.

From this thoughts you are right to avoid to let a Diesel run in that way.

So that spray is only a good idea to start some burning and give the Diesel a chance

to evaporate. It is a different situation to our WEBER manifolds and is

different to the CanAms that are started in that way.

 

The Otto engine only lets air in as much as the throttle is opened.

There is no chance of an uncontrolled combustion because there is simply not enough

oxygene availiable to do some harm.

 

So please believe me, everything is under control what is also prooven by the below patent

where VEBA oil claims for a mixture fuel with ether for carburettor engines.

 

http://www.google.com/patents/EP0064253B2?cl=en

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"Easy Start" not "Damp Start"

Different product, Damp start was (is ?) a Silicone spray for your HT leads to help prevent stray sparks.

 

Bob

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