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I now have a new Moss boot seal for the TR4.

 

and the boot will not close.

 

Is a better seal available?

 

or is it surgery?

 

If so where does one make the incision, on top? or ??????

Edited by pfenlon
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You can make a Moss seal work if you deepen the groove a bit with a SHARP scalpel.

 

Just go at it a litle at a time until you get a snug fit.

 

Probably be OK along the top edge. Its the two right-angled corners at the top that needed the most.

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You can make a Moss seal work if you deepen the groove a bit with a SHARP scalpel.

 

Just go at it a litle at a time until you get a snug fit.

 

Probably be OK along the top edge. Its the two right-angled corners at the top that needed the most.

Waste of time Im afraid as its an open cell sponge seal unlike original so absorbs water and the lower side along the bottom gets rolled off the edge everytime you shut it.

Stuart.

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Waste of time Im afraid as its an open cell sponge seal unlike original so absorbs water and the lower side along the bottom gets rolled off the edge everytime you shut it.

Stuart.

Which is exactly what happens whatever glue you use. So please fill in a Parts Quality Initiative form. JJC

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I used the Moss sealing rubber and a new Moss latch for the 'hook' thingy to grab. But it never did.

So I constructed my own latch and sent my Moss latch to Tony in WA who must have had the right rubber bit.

Had no idea that there were different rubber seals available at that time.

Guess I have the highest sitting boot lid in Oz (or anywhere).

Didn't care much about it then (or now) in amongst all the other things I was sorting out at the time.

(Pictures available of the Little Jim latch bodge for those who can't get the right rubber seal.)

Edited by littlejim
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I had trouble with the repro latch plate. It was simply not strong enough. I fashioned one from a Peugeot 309 hatch off eBay. It has a loop hasp and is far more secure.

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My problem with the latch was not that it wouldn't latch or simply unlatch itself.

It was that the lid could be flexed slightly so that the latch came off the open end of the spigot. This could happen with an over full boot.

 

The simple cure was to fix a large washer on the end of the spigot. I tapped a hole in my spigot rather than weld it on.

 

Roger

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If you are repairing the boot lid the a simple boxing in where the lock goes through stops all the flex round the lock.

Stuart.

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Or, if Originality is not for you * go to the breakers and get the tailgate seal from a modern. It looks just the same as a TR6 boot lid seal.

 

 

I'll get my coat

 

Peter W

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Seal arrived from Woolies today, and now the boot closes, AND the seal stays in place.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Just got to stop the bonnet lock from NOT releasing the bonnet........what a piece of cr--py engineering it all is under there.

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  • 6 months later...

4mtrs Woolies part number 268.

Stuart.

Hi all, i have just bought some of the Woolies 268, just to be sure before fitting it looks like it should fit with the offset of the top round part facing to the outside of the boot.

Is this right?

Thanks Chris

Edited by potts4a
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Hi all, i have just bought some of the Woolies 268, just to be sure before fitting it looks like it should fit with the offset of the top round part facing to the outside of the boot.

Is this right?

Thanks Chris

Yes correct

Stuart.

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Many thanks Stuart,the new one is now fitted and lines up much better with no kinks. Hopefully it will keep the rain out.

Regards Chris

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interesting for me to read the above record.

I got a Moss seal (fitted nicely) but couldn't get the new catch to work so I made my own one up with a loop for the catch to grab.

Looks like I should have asked you blokes about the different seals. (sigh)

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