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Brass 3/8" BSP Heater take-off


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Quick questions I hope.

Should the heater water take-off from the head be a parallel thread, and would the fitment be OK in brass?

Thanks for any advice.

Regards

Norman

 

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I agree with Pete and believe it's tapered but in answer to the question about using brass adaptors - no problem at all, in fact thats what I've done on both mine - basic off the shelf modern plumbing parts which make it a hell of a lot easier to get leak proof joints, can be fully fitted with the rearmost head stud/nut in place and then angled appropriately to engage with the heater flow valve (I use the new generic ones not the original type that didn't really work)....and I always use PTFE.

 

I'm talking about TR4's so not sure if all this is relevant to you.

 

Hope that helps

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Just to confirm it is a TR4 and Thanks Guys - that's what I wanted to hear - Tapered & PTFE it is!

I guess that to clear the head stud/nut I need to source a swivel fitting, or are there ones with enough height to clear the top of the adjacent stud/nut? (Quite a few on ebay but the dimensions are lacking.)

 

Thanks again

Norman

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Here's what I'm referring to Norman, it's a two part affair, I'm not a plumber and don't know the correct names but I'm sure someone here could assist. Basically it's a double male union that goes into the head to give the extra height for clearance above the rear head nut and then a male/female 90 degree bend which, with appropriate use of PTFE or fibre washers gives you an angle to attach to your heater valve.....

 

023_zpsjyvefwc0.jpg

 

010_zpsq0eo2qjf.jpg

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Here's what I'm referring to Norman, it's a two part affair, I'm not a plumber and don't know the correct names but I'm sure someone here could assist. Basically it's a double male union that goes into the head to give the extra height for clearance above the rear head nut and then a male/female 90 degree bend which, with appropriate use of PTFE or fibre washers gives you an angle to attach to your heater valve.....

 

023_zpsjyvefwc0.jpg

 

010_zpsq0eo2qjf.jpg

 

That looks like a good solution.

 

Just an observation...

It has to be the correct size/shape to screw into the head without having to remove the rear RH head nut &/or stud. - Unless the head is removed of course.

Orig was not a right angle and the TR5/6 was a straight thing. Early car has a tap with removable outlet tube.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Perfect

The photos make it very clear and as I'm also no plumber either I'll print them off and down to the merchants. Although I do rather like the tap idea - Hmm?

Thanks again everyone.

Norman

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Hi John,

at last!!!! I have been scratching my head for ages about obtaining a right angle fitting for the valve take off.

I used two of the original iron fittings to get the outlet horizontal.

I used a washing machine service valve and adapted a cable to it - works a TReat but uses quite a few adaptors to get it to all fit together.

Your fitting should make it what I wanted in the first place.

 

Roger

 

 

service valve

 

 

with cable

 

 

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And developing John's idea one more step.............

 

...........I found

3/8" BSPT M-M

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120726691312

 

and 3/8" FM hose taper elbow

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Female-Elbow-Hosetails-Connectors-Barbed-connecting-Hose-tails-Fuel-Air-/121557771138?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item61e7e5b6cc

 

From same ebay vendor and has the benefit of a proper hose tail.

Norman

Edited by TRnorm
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