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Well with compression down in two pots it looks like it's engine out and rebuild ahead of the new season.

 

It's a 1991cc. I assume it'll cost at least £1000 to increase it to 2138cc. Worth it, or just stick with what we have and get that working as best we can?

 

Anything we should do? Not do?

 

It has electric fan one end and lightened flywheel the other end. The car is run on standard tyres, but is used for sprints, hill climbs and historic rallying.

 

That said I also want to be able to use it for touring on the road. We went to southern France in 2013 and had a great time.

 

Your suggestions and comments please.

 

regards kev

 

 

 

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Hi Kev

 

Bit of a personal decision on that one I suppose, but since you have compression problems anyway, and are going to have to splash the cash anyway, it may be worth taking it out to 2138cc, especially if you use it for hill climbs and sprints.

 

One question, would the increase in capacity affect your 3A with respect to class, rules and regs for the events you enter?

 

Regards

 

Kevin

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Cost depends upon whether you want to do the work yourself, also TR shop were selling 87mm pistons at about £250 as I remember. So a refresh with those pistons and then a complete balance of assembly should come in well under £500 (depending again if any classes you are to compete in will allow it.

 

Mick Richards

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...The TRShop pistons also come complete with liners.

 

The problem with taking the engine to bits is that you find things.

Anything that moves will have wear - do you change when the engine is out or wait for another day - that's where the money goes.

 

First thing is take apart, clean, assess damage - then do the right thing.

 

The 2138 with 87mm pots runs well for touring and with the correct tinkering I'm sure you could drive up your hill climbs with no problems.

 

Roger

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Roger,

 

2138cc is a 86mm engine, 87mm is a bit more at 2187cc as I remember .

 

Mick Richards

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87mm was the Vanguard size I think. but Vanguard pistons were not strong enough for TR use.

Could be a good size to go for if suitable pistons could be found.

 

Bob.

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Compression down in two pots isn't always a problem below the head. It could be burnt valves or just needing a valve grind to restore compression. Check the head before stripping the block.

 

Whether to to stay with 83mm pistons or go to 87mm is a personal choice, but the larger pistons offer a useful power boost.

 

If the engine has to be stripped, a few suggestions -

 

Crack test the crankshaft.

Balance components to help an inherently rough engine.

Replace the chain tensioner (weld up and grind smooth any groove in the engine plate)

Check oil pump tolerance.

If re-using the cam followers, ensure they go back as removed.

Clean gunk out of the rocker shaft whch can starve the end rocker of oil.

Check for any bent push rods.

Make sure the FO8 shelves in the block are spotlessly clean before re-assembly.

Consider an upgraded rear main seal kit.

The felt/rope type vertical seals in the rear bearing cap need a sealing compound or are prone to leaking.

Check that the block deck is flat and the head isn't warped.(essential for head gasket).

Replace welch plugs, especially at the back of the head.

 

Hope it's just the valves.

 

Viv.

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Bob,

 

The Standard Vanguard was 85mm up until 1955 and then changed to the 87mm pistons. As you say pistons not suitable for anything but staid motoring, the 87mm pistons being offered by TR shop are correctly made for quality.

 

Mick Richards

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All

 

Many thanks for the comments.

 

The engine should be off to the engine builder next week and it'll be interesting to see what he makes of the internals and his proposals on how to get a bit more (well OK a lot more) power out of the unit without making it impractical for historic regularity rallying, touring or the pub run.

 

take care Kev

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