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Dynamator Alternator conversion


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HI All, something I've been thinking about for a little while and now as I've fitted an electric cooling fan, something I've come back as the spring draws near and playtime beckons.

I've seen on e-bay (not always as bad as people say) a number of sites starting to sell the C39/40 dynamo Alternator like-a-likes for £125.95.

 

Has anybody any experience of using these? And if so do you know if you can change the hand of them by rotating the front plate 180 degrees as all the images I can see on the web show a right handed version and my TR4 would need to have left handed version. I've asked one site, but they were less than knowledgeable about the products they sell.

 

I'd like to go down this route as its about the same costs as an 18acr conversion when you look at the cost of the new loom and brackets required as well as the relatively inexpensive alternator. And I'm keen to keep the appearance of stock with all the benefits of modern technology and reliability (he hopes). I'll also be looking to use the narrow belt conversion from the TR Shop as part of the upgrade.

 

link to a typical site

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45-Amp-Dynamator-Alternator-Dynamo-Conversion-Lucas-C39-C40-Fitting-/200898484354?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ec67b9882

 

Regards

Mark

 

Lemans tickets all booked - Yeeeh

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I can't speak for the eBay version but I have a Dynalite on my 4A and it has been fine. You do need to alter the wiring loom slightly around the control box. I and others have used the control box as a sort of cross connection point.

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I can't speak for the eBay version but I have a Dynalite on my 4A and it has been fine. You do need to alter the wiring loom slightly around the control box. I and others have used the control box as a sort of cross connection point.

 

HI, Pete, yes the Dynalites are little bit more than I'd like to pay (£400+), but as I write this, I find that the words "you get what you pay for" seem to be ringing in my ears.

 

Did you have to rotate the front or did it come correctly orientated?

 

I have a spare/old regulator box that I'd planned to gut and wire internally so I could keep the stock look and wiring standard, also read that some people put 50amp fuses in the converted regulator box, so will look at that idea too, was thinking of the maxi blade fuses for that.

 

Mark

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Hi Mark, I've been running a Dynamator supplied by Watford Classics for just on 2 years now, fit and forget, it's been no problem at all, been running a fat belt (couldn't see any reason to change) and, as I have a tubular manifold, I fitted a heat shield. I know you get what you pay for, but the Dynalites do seem rather expensive to me.

Not sure about altering the orientation, but mine was supplied correct, and, like you, I kept an old regulator box and ripped out the internals, no extra fuses just used it as the junction box.

Cheers Rob

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Looking at the photo, I think you may be able to convert from left to right handed.

If you can, then it would be a 120° rotation, as the front plate is held by 3 screws

Below seems to be the other hand to your link.

 

Bob.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB-MG-Midget-1098-1275-Dynamo-to-Alternator-conversion-45amp-easy-conversion/310606495113?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27678%26meid%3Da459968304504607b40b69ddc707e85d%26pid%3D100009%26prg%3D11379%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D200898484354

Edited by Lebro
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I have the modified wiring diagram for the control box conversion if anyone is interested.

The control box is a TR3A one by the way.

Please PM me your eMail address.

 

Tom.

HI Tom, PM sent

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Looking at the photo, I think you may be able to convert from left to right handed.

If you can, then it would be a 120° rotation, as the front plate is held by 3 screws

Below seems to be the other hand to your link.

 

Bob.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB-MG-Midget-1098-1275-Dynamo-to-Alternator-conversion-45amp-easy-conversion/310606495113?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27678%26meid%3Da459968304504607b40b69ddc707e85d%26pid%3D100009%26prg%3D11379%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D200898484354

HI Bob, yes I was hoping that might be the case, it certainly does look like it might and I can't think of a reason why there would be anything internally that would stop it from working.

 

 

Mark

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Thanks all for the input, looks like I'll be taking the plunge. Ordered and on its way. £99.95 (promotional offer) from Watford Classic cars on e-bay. Ignore the ford x-flow part, they are all the same according to the seller.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dynamator-45amp-Dynamo-Alternator-conversion-For-Ford-Pre-X-Flow-Engines-/391005196415?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5b09b9d07f

 

Mark

Edited by MRG1965
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HI all, just received the new Dynomator and plan to fit it on Saturday providing the weather is kind.

 

One question regarding the torque on the pulley, does anybody have any data on how tight it needs to be (or is it just F'in tight) and if Loctite is needed/recommended,

T'internet and WM do not provide any clues.

 

Mark

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Hi all, just a quick update on the upgrade for anybody thinking of upgrading to an alternator, or a Dynomator (Alternator disguised as a Dynamo) as my case. The process is identical in both cases, except the brackets that hold the Alternator (typically an 18acr) need to be changed as does the loom to the alternator as it uses a three pin plug. Whereas the Dynomator uses all the existing brackets and wiring.

The only thing that does need to be done is to remove the voltage regulator from the wiring as the alternators have these built in. I chose in this case to retain the regulator box and incorporate a 50amp fuse at the same time (PO supplied a couple of old regulators with the car). This was totally a personal choice on my part, as I like the period look and the same result could have been achieved by simply connecting all three large wires together (“A”, “A+” and “D”) and then connecting the two thin wires for the dash warning light together to get the same result. You don’t need the earth wire anymore to the regulator.

To retain the regulator box and use it as a connector box, Simply remove all the inner workings and join the ”A” and “A+” connectors together and then join these to the “D” terminal (fuse optional).

I then chose to add another connector to the “F” terminal to allow the dash warning light wires to be connected together, but I would have done it differently looking back and should have joined the “E” and “F” terminals with a wire to have the same affect, as the “E” connector is now redundant.

 

I used a relatively inexpensive Dynomator which has been advertised for around £125 on the web, but I managed to pick one up for £99 as they were promote dynomators for older ford vehicles, but the unit is identical, and £26 still in my pocket.

The change was very easy and the only issue I encountered was that the adjustment locking bolt thread in the front case was metric on the new unit and not imperial as I’d assumed it would be, truth be told I’d not even considered it until I found I could not get the bolt to screw in. But luckily I had a 25mm M10 bolt (set screw) sitting in the top of my tool box, but you’ll need to obtain one.

 

I’m very pleased with my purchase and it works and charges as I’d expect (13.85v). Have to wait a few hundred miles to confirm if I’ve got a bargin or not, but looks good at present.

 

I have left in the 30/30 ammeter in place, but had already purchased (Ebay) in preparation an identical 50/50 unit (from a rally spec 60’s mini I think) which will drop straight in and look correct, but given the ammeter only went to 20amps upon starting and then settled down to 5amps during warmup, I may leave the old ammeter in place, but I’ll run it a few weeks and see.

 

My car had already been converted to negative earth by a PO, but this must also be done for this upgrade.

 

I pondered upgrading the wiring (thick cables), but looking at their gauge, I’m probably not going to do that as I’ m not sure the alternator is ever going to chuck out 45amps, unless the battery is totally dead and it can’t accept that level of charge without damage to the battery, so will probably not be a problem, another suck it and see moment. But again a relatively easy change if you add additional wire outside loom, but don’t forget the wires to the ammeter and down to the solenoid as well as to the old voltage regulator.

 

Time taken:

1 hour to replace the Dynamo

1 hour to modify the regulator box

 

Thanks to Fireman049 (Tom) for his pictures (I should have taken more notice of the second wire!) and everybody else for their input.

 

Link to photos and wiring diagram

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rznd6sbnklgzf8g/AAD5KaM50AQ_QwVhqH7U_LbJa?dl=0

 

 

Mark

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HI Edwin, thanks, I was hoping some people would find it interesting, relatively simple upgrade, but if somebody else now feels confident to have a go, all the better.

I added the fuse between the Alternator feed "D" terminal and used it internally to link to the "A" and "A+" terminals that feed the ammeter (battery) and the ignition switch. It may never be needed, but I thought Whilst I was doing it...

I'm also in the process of adding a second fuse box (above the original in the photos) to allow me to provide a second ignition and battery feed for additional electrical items I have/are about to add (cooling fan, radio, fuel pump,...) as I was not too keen on their only being 2 real fuses (if you ignore the horn fuse) in the whole electrical system. I'm doing that so the upgrades can be removed without affecting the existing loom and connections.

 

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Mark,

Just came across this topic and its exactly what I was thinking of doing, I also want a Dynamator so I don't have to change the water pump pulley with a thin belt conversion since I have recently spent nearly a whole afternoon persuading the pulley onto the new pump with my blowtorch and a very heavy hammer! I have put a Dynamator on watch on Ebay and will buy it when I get back to the UK (in Thailand till April).

 

Thanks again, I shall bookmark this so I can refer to it when I do the conversion (I have also just removed the radiator and fitted an electric fan as well as a TR6 multiblade yellow fan (Ebay £30) which should be better then the useless original tractor fan.

 

BTW I previously had an MGB and found that I prefered to manually switch on/off the fan which I had wired through the ignition with an inline fuse since when the car is stationary the thermostat uselessly keeps the fan running even though this doesn'r cool without the engine pushing the water around and it runs for ages after, I shan't bother with the thermostat this time.

Charles

 

PS keep the comments coming!

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Hi Mark,

Just came across this topic and its exactly what I was thinking of doing, I also want a Dynamator so I don't have to change the water pump pulley with a thin belt conversion since I have recently spent nearly a whole afternoon persuading the pulley onto the new pump with my blowtorch and a very heavy hammer! I have put a Dynamator on watch on Ebay and will buy it when I get back to the UK (in Thailand till April).

 

Thanks again, I shall bookmark this so I can refer to it when I do the conversion (I have also just removed the radiator and fitted an electric fan as well as a TR6 multiblade yellow fan (Ebay £30) which should be better then the useless original tractor fan.

 

BTW I previously had an MGB and found that I prefered to manually switch on/off the fan which I had wired through the ignition with an inline fuse since when the car is stationary the thermostat uselessly keeps the fan running even though this doesn'r cool without the engine pushing the water around and it runs for ages after, I shan't bother with the thermostat this time.

Charles

 

PS keep the comments coming!

Hi Charles, PM if me if you want to talk, but an easy afternoons work.

I've wired my fan up with an ignition feed to the relay with the thermo switch to trigger and the main load feed to the fan through a fuse, but not through the ignition. Although I was tinkering yesterday and noticed the top of the radiator was a bit damp in one corner, so now will have to take it out and send over to a local radiator repair shop here in Northampton, luckily they seem to be 200 yards from where I work, who knew.

 

Mark

post-12879-0-27221900-1423494959_thumb.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

Hi Mark,

Today I am fitting the Dynamotor, all good thanks to your notes including the E&F wire connection.

 

However, I have two (NU) Blue/Brown cables both fairly substantial although one slightly thicker than the other. Does anyone know what the other one does as its in the loom it has me puzzled? All other wires per the official diagram and the note you prepared.

 

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks

Charles

 

PS should be ready for IWE!

 

 

 

.post-12736-0-89073900-1436894955_thumb.jpg

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Oh, and both the blue/browns were connected to the A1 terminal.

Charles

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Hi Charles, you should have three thick wires and two thin wires. Connect the two thin wires together to make charging light function and the three thick wires together to connect battery, alternator and vehicle supply together.

 

Mark

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Hi Mark, yes I have the three large plus the two thin ones plus another A1 located blue brown?

If no one knows what the other one is for I will leave it unconnected and see what doesn't work.

Charles

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Hi Charles,

The one Blue/Brown wire feeds the horns, the other goes to the ignition switch. I have just completed the Dynamo to Lucas Alternator conversion using a gutted old regulator box as a junction box and I had to fit an additional wide male tag to the box in order to fit all the wires to it.

Graham

Edited by Grahamgl
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Brilliant thanks Graham, I fitted the Dynamotor (£124 free P&p on EBay) and it works perfectly. I took the TR for a drive this evening in the sunny lanes around here in the Cotswolds and pressed the horn with no effect...... So that's what that wire was. I tried every other lights heater fan etc etc all worked fine but forgot to text the horns Doh!

 

All set for the IWE .

Cheers

Charles

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  • 1 month later...

Had the Dynamotor for over a month now and am delighted with it. In the end it was easy to fit and although I never changed the amp instrument it has only ever been close to the max charge pin and that was when it was first fitted and the battery was low charge. A very worthwhile upgrade and indistinguishable from the original Dynamo.

Recommended A+ upgrade

Charles

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Hi, good to hear!

 

I have done the Same conversion in the rebuild of my tr2.

After a few hundred Miles the. Dynamotor started to wine.

 

I have had it checked by a specialist, unfortunalety he found the bearing to be of low quality and in combination with the "cheap" construction its prone to fail. He thinks with the timken bearing it will last longer,

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