Engine Hoist points

[MarkBrash]

I'm planning on removing the engine and gearbox from my 4a next weekend and would like some advice as to where I should bolt the engine hoist chains to. I've order a balance bar and that looks like it has 4 chains I can bolt to the engine. I'm not sure if I need to use all 4 or if I could get away with attaching 2 to the exhaust manifold studs.

 

Using the head studs looks like an option but there's something telling me that's the wrong option.

 

I have already removed the rad and crossmember and all the interior, so I think I'm probably ready but please pass on any tricks or traps that may help.

 

Mark

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

see here http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2058 ref items 80 and 84.

 

80 is on the front nearside of engine and 84 is on the rear manifold bolt area.

 

Roger

[boxofbits]

Hi Mark

 

 

I used ratchet strap webbing in place of chains which you can double up and tie round the manifolds if you don't have the hooks. As long as you get the lift just slightly forward of centre engine you should be fine. Btw, are you using a wheeled engine hoist or block & tackle?

 

Regards

 

Kevin

Edited January 11, 2015 by boxofbits

[MarkBrash]

Thank you Roger, I feel foolish now as it seems all so obvious.

 

Kevin, fingers crossed I still have the lifting eyes on my engine and the plan is to use a wheeled 2 ton hoist.

 

I'm taking the engine out so that it can be fitted to my newly completed restored rolling chassis (I had my own private topping out ceremony today when I fitted the last spinner) and then the tub can be moved over, and finally work can start on new floors and sills.

 

So when positioning the hoist I'm hoping to be able to come in from the side and not the front, and then swivel the airborne engine 180 degrees onto it's new home, well at least that's the plan.

 

The engine is going in just to provide the weight to get the chassis into the right shape, when the welding is done the engine will get pulled again and a proper look will be taken and probably a clutch change whilst it's all out.

 

II think I have mentally switched the ratchet from 'off' to 'on' and 2015 will be the year of assembly of shiny clean parts rather than fighting to disassemble 50 year old rusted remains.

[david c]

I think you will probably have to remove the starter motor, to avoid it fouling the steering column, When I lifted my engine out I took off everything, no let me put that another way,.. I took off the starter, dizzy, fuel pump and oil filter. I also loosened the steering rack. It all went well, though I did have a few issues with the low garage ceiling.

Oddly enough I have just completed the reverse process, in order to put the weight back in the car so I can work on panel fit and welding. Personally I am finding that if it takes an hour to take a bit off it will take me 4 hours to get it back on again properly. and at least two days for the gearbox overdrive lump!

But it is huge fun and strangely compulsive.

Good luck

[MikeF]

.... Personally I am finding that if it takes an hour to take a bit off it will take me 4 hours to get it back on again properly. ....

 

That's because Triumph built Latent Morphability into their components , so that even when totally knackered, they retain the ability to morph as soon as they become detached from the car. This makes them the wrong shape to replace. You can temporarily use up this shape changing property by taking apart and reassembling several times over a short time. This discharges the morphability, but be aware if you leave them on the car for any period of time they recharge and have morphability again. As we know, modern repro parts don't always comply to STI original designs and have instant instead of latent morphability. This means they will never fit

 

 

MIke

Edited January 14, 2015 by MikeF