david c Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hello.....only me So I have the gearbox within a gnats c**k or the engine block or about an inch in old money. But I can still turn the gearbox drive flange thing easily. My question is when should the gearbox shaft engage with engine. At the moment the two are held together / supported at the business end by a selection of old Philips screwdrivers the plan being to in the immortal words of Mr Haynes simply slide the two together and bolt up. Anyone see a flaw in my cunning plan? Sorry I know I must seem like a complete numpty just trying to avoid breaking things. Thanks all. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Silly question but have you got it in gear? You will need to engage on the spline Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Sorry yes it is in gear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi David, I assume the clutch friction plate was held in place with an alignment tool when the pressure plate was bolted down. The geabox needs to be in good alignment with the crank longitudinal axis - ie in line. A 1" gap would suggest that the input shaft splines have passed the pressure plate fingers. So that leaves the plain nose of the shaft is not going into the bush at the end of the crank. Whilst rotating the propshaft flange, and pushing the box you need also to raise and jiggle the box with your third hand. Roger PS - this is why I take the engine out with the box and build it on the garage floor. Much more work but no swearing or heavy lifting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) From memory the splines should engauge when around 1" away, so get a bit closer. Bob Just read Rogers post - agree with all that as well !! Edited January 2, 2015 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) There has/have been other thread(s) on this earlier. In my case,when it was just the chassis, the the box went on with one of those famous "satisfying snicks". Once I had the body on, and found I had clutch problems (several times) it wouldn't go the last inch or so without a lot of jiggling, winding on with the mounting nuts and guide bolts and lots of bad words. However by about go #3 I was getting pretty good at it. Edited January 2, 2015 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Ahh so I simply need to grow another hand and jiggle it a bit, will give it a bash tomorrow.................This is starting to sound like childish innuendo. Seriously though thanks folks thanks for that, I do appreciate your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 You did cable tie the clutch arm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Should have added that I had to have one trolley jack under the box and another one under the engine to do the fine alignment adjustments. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Whenever I do this job I use a few long bits of threaded bar screwed into 4 of the bolt holes on the engine. This ensures that the gearbox is aligned properly and makes the job much easier! Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Just to add to the above - You need to do this WITHOUT the gearbox rear rubber mounting fitted, or you will have problems with the bellhousing fouling the bulkhead. You can yank off the gearbox with this fitted, but very difficult, if not impossible, to re-fit with the mounting in place. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Hi David, some very good comments above - wire locking the taper bolt - who would dream of not fitting that The rear rubber mount - you need as much movement as possible. Back in August I refitted my box without locking the taper pin . I couldn't bring myself to removing the box out of the car. So I made a contraption - 3 off 3" x 18" fence posts either side of the box laying on the floor panel. Round metal bar across the box supported on the posts. Luggage strap on the box CofG holding the box up. Undo all the bolts and roll the box out along the posts just enough to get my hands in (about 4"). Then roll it back in - perfect. It still took a day but no lifting and struggling. Also consider cutting the rear 6" off the GB tunnel (attach both halves with a plate etc) this will making refitting it easier. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I had just got the "box" back from Mike Papworth, he had fitted the cable tie for me, and now I know why! Your dead right I tried to do it with the rear support in, doesn't work does it, but you can get the bracket off with the gearbox more or less in............ A bit worried about winding up the two parts, I know my luck that ally casting is just going to go "ping" just when I am about stop winding. I am sure Mike will have fitted the locking wire............I am sure, yes I'm sure I'm sure.....I'm not sure am I? I'll call Mike. Very little physical effort used so far, swung it in with the engine crane, easier as I already had the screen off,might be overkill but it worked for me. I have a jack under the sump and dead screwdrivers holding the whole shooting match together / lined up, As Roger said all I need is a third hand and a jiggle, perhaps I'm being too cautious, Having watched Mike "dismantle" my overdrive and gearbox in a little under ten minutes when I had been faffing about like it was a UXB It's probably time to stop messing about and just get on with it. Thanks all for your help and suggestions. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) I'd remove the jack under the sump. It is easier to refit the GB with the engine tilting backwards as you get more clearance to jiggle up and down until it aligns Edited January 3, 2015 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Hmmm, that's a thought, Don't think I can take it out completely as unless I have done something very wrong the whole engine is only held on by the two front mounting bolts, but I can lower it a bit to give a bit more wiggle room. The weather here is a bit grim right now, tomorrows temperature is supposed to be + 2 degrees so I will only be fiddling until I loose feeling in my fingers! Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 nothing to worry about if your rubber mounts are ok. They can stand a lot of torsion. It's a bit like sky diving: you know right away if you're fit for it nor not, haha. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter clarke Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 I support gearbox on hydraulic jack and line up by measuring equal gaps between bell housing and engine block once within an inch of home. Then use suitable piece of timber between output flange and prop shaft tunnel to lever box foreward and home. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Leaving the engine supported (cantilevered) only on the front rubber mountings is more than a bit dodgy IMO. Apart from the significant risk of damaging the mountings, it is likely that the rear of the engine would sit too low to get the gearbox located. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 I agree with Alan. You might get away with it on a 6 cylinder engine where the engine mounts are more central on the block but the 4 cylinder mounts are right at the front and I could only fit my box with the sump supported. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yep if they was not knackered before they will be now,use the bulkhead. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 I support gearbox on hydraulic jack and line up by measuring equal gaps between bell housing and engine block once within an inch of home. Then use suitable piece of timber between output flange and prop shaft tunnel to lever box foreward and home. I agree, the secret to getting the eng./trans. to mate is to make sure the gaps are equal at all 4 corners. Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 David, My o/d box was with Mike Papworth late last year, and he fitted the locking wire to mine, if that helps you rest easier tonight. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david c Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Job done! Isn't it odd how wretched you feel when it's not going right, and how elated you feel when it does. Set about it with a will this morning, gave it a hard stare, jiggled the jacks, employed a lump of two x one as a third hand and Bobs yer uncle. I'd like to say I did it all on my own, but the truth is without the help of all on the forum I'd either have broken something or still be faffing around. Thanks all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyC 4A Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Having to face the very issue of re-fitting the G/Box to an engine in situ after an O/D rebuild, this thread has been very helpful, but one thing I need to ask, and that is what the cable tie, referred to earlier, is being used for? Just to add that the clutch fork taper pin had sheared off, twice, once at the end of the thread, and the other 1/4 inch in, flush with shaft/fork join, so luckily managed to "tap" the shaft and the first part fell out, enabling me to pull the shaft through the fork... I was amazed after comments from Roger in a different thread :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 The cable tie (or bit of string in my case) is used to hold the clutch release lever in its forward position while jiggling around with the box. If it's not held there the lever will move and the clutch release bearing will over travel off the end of the gearbox nose and you'll never mate the box to the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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