Molyslip or similar

[TR5tar]

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere in detail, but what's the opinion on Molyslip and other similar products? When I used to mess around with cars thirty or so years ago, someone told me about this product and I started using it as a matter of course, mainly because I didn't check the oil level that often and I hoped that this might offer some protection. Now, with the TR, I check the oil level before I take it on a run, but I was wondering if one of these types of product might be worthwhile.

 

Darren

[RogerH]

Hi Darren,

don;t know too much about any of the Moly products.

 

However I have used Halfords 20/50 classic oil for the most part of my 150Kmiles in the 4A with no damage as yet.

Mainly touring and Motorway up to 90MPH (there's me bragging again).

 

Why complicate things. You'll get use to the oil consumption and check it a frequent intervals.

 

Roger

[Peter Cobbold]

This authority makes no mention of moly, except in greases. ( except a brief mention on p113):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Which-Oil-Choosing-greases-collector/dp/1845843657/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416413477&sr=8-1&keywords=which+oil

I think that means avoid.

A classic oil with correct ZDDP level is more important to me. But reading Michell had made me realise that I need to ditch the oil cooler to get up to the correct ZDDP working temperature and so avoid cam wear. Michell gives details of which modern oils are fine.

Peter

Edited November 19, 2014 by Peter Cobbold

[boxofbits]

I think maybe you are referring to Molyslip as a bearing protection agent, and yes in days gone by we used to use a Wynns oil additive on every service when I worked for a BL dealer.

 

I think there is an argument in favour of them, but probably a much bigger one if they don't!

 

Provided you engine us healthy, with good pressure and regular oil changes I don't see the need.

[Ian Vincent]

a very long time ago when I was in the civil engineering business and we used to launch bridges, we used nearly pure Moybdenum Disulphide grease the was very expensive to grease the shoes sliding on the rail. Normal greases used to be forced out under the extreme pressure that was generated by several hundred tonnes on a very small contact area. Molybdenum Disulphide worked.

 

I also remember an article about a car that had been driven with Molyslip or some equivalent for a number of miles before they drained the oil to see how long it would run before it seized - it ran for a surprisingly long time whereas a comparison vehicle only lasted for a couple of minutes. Something to do with Molybdenum DS getting into the intergranular spaces in the metal structure/

 

Rgds Ian

[ianc]

When I bought my second TR2 in 1964, it exhibited a thrumming noise from the back axle when cruising on the M1 at speeds up to 100 mph. I added some Molyslip to the rear axle and with a fortnight it no longer made the noise and, 5 years later, it was still fine.

But, I would never put it into a gearbox which had overdrive, nor into a limited slip differential - it would be a disaster!

 

I have been using Castrol LM molygrease for some 55 years years - and still haven't emptied the huge can that I bought all those years ago!

 

Ian Cornish

[littlejim]

I've used one based on teflon (called Nulon) in the Prado engine oil from early on, now 444,000 Kms and not using any oil. (I like it - however one swallow etc)

Moly disulphide was the predecessor to the Nulon.

Prior to Molydi was colloidal graphite.

During the RedEx Trial era we had a story of the standard vanguard driver, using colloidal graphite in the donk, who holed his sump on a rock, but got another 50 miles (80K) before the engine seized.

 

(Haven't bothered about it with the 4A, it just gets used occasionally - the ZDDP oil will have to look after it.)

Edited November 19, 2014 by littlejim

[amclpreston]

 

 

I also remember an article about a car that had been driven with Molyslip or some equivalent for a number of miles before they drained the oil to see how long it would run before it seized - it ran for a surprisingly long time whereas a comparison vehicle only lasted for a couple of minutes. Something to do with Molybdenum DS getting into the intergranular spaces in the metal structure/

 

Rgds Ian

 

I remember that ad very well. It was pretty much the reason why I used Molyslip on various cheap old cars that I owned.

Usually when I had background concerns about the wear, or state of the engine's ability to cope with hard driving.

 

Used it in a Herald, and also a Mini. When I'd top up the oil in the Mini, it would very soon lose it through the drive-shaft

seals. Car ran great, but according to the dipstick, never registered any oil. So I put a can of Molyslip in.

Problem solved.., aka removal of worry.

 

Think I may have used it in the TR5 before I rebuilt it, but generally my TR's were healthy

and I saw no particular need. (Although, might have thought it could be useful for the low oil

pressure thing on start-up, for those without the filter conversion)

Edited November 20, 2014 by amclpreston

[riverstar]

Not sure about "Molyslip" but a old friend of mine who had worked for Texaco throughout the world for a long time always insisted that the additives on sale in modern times for oil were merely a marketing and money making exercise and would only use a recognised brand of oil in his 60's Morgan.

[Dave Larnder]

Riverstar

 

Perhaps through loyalty to his employer! (Texaco)

 

When we first had an early Mini with the magic wand, I always used moly disulphide in it and never had all those troubles others had and moaned about the gear shift in early Minis.

With my TR3A I use moly grease for all the grease points on it, and I have no trouble with squeaks and bangs anywhere.

 

[Dave Larnder]

Hi Darren,

don;t know too much about any of the Moly products.

 

However I have used Halfords 20/50 classic oil for the most part of my 150Kmiles in the 4A with no damage as yet.

Mainly touring and Motorway up to 90MPH (there's me bragging again).

 

Why complicate things. You'll get use to the oil consumption and check it a frequent intervals.

 

Roger

Roger

You have been topped by Ianc, so stop hanging about at 90MPH.

 

Dave

[jean]

For some years I use LUCAS Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer in both my TRs, Don't know if it helps, but the engines are still running fine and only burn very little oil...

[RogerH]

Hi Dave,

with the standard TR4A speedo I could have been doing anything between 90 & 120 - it was probably 101mph.

 

Roger

[john.r.davies]

The question isn't what to add to perfectly good engine oil, but how long it will last before it should be changed. Oil ages like anything else, and at the same time deteriorates if used excessively, so the answer is - it all depends.

 

It depends on time, and the use to which you put the car. Take it out now and again, and thrash it, hard, on circuit or stage, then you need to replace the oil every time. Only remove it from its cocoon, polish and put it on a trailer to a concourse and back again, and you need not replace until time, oxygen and the breakdown products of combustion have got together in the sump to degrade the oil, but that can take less than twelve months.

 

That is not mine (though I agree) but the opinion of several authorities, from "Honest John", the Telegraph's friendly car dealer, to Richard Michell, author of "Which Oil?" (Pub. Veloce Press - highly recommended). Replace your oil regularly and frequently, at least annually NOT at three year intervals, and you will save money and preserve your motor.

 

But do go for ZDDP containing products. My garage-owning neighbour always recommends and uses Millers, unless the car has a Catalyst exhaust: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/pdf/automotive/Classic%20Oil%20Brochure.pdf

 

John

[Dave Larnder]

Hi Dave,

with the standard TR4A speedo I could have been doing anything between 90 & 120 - it was probably 101mph.

 

Roger

Roger

 

Since when do you drive on the speedo with that wobbly needle? use the rev counter it is far more accurate as you know.

 

Dave

[Dave Larnder]

Johyn

I buy my ZDDP in 4oz./113.4g plastic bottles and add it to a 5litre can of Castrol GTX so I can top up when I need it, as well as for an oil change. I go to their website to order zddplus.com and get 6 bottles at a time to keep the postage down from U.S.A.

 

Dave

[john.r.davies]

Dave,

I do the same for run-in oil, but I spend as little as possible on the base oil, supermarket own-brand for instance, to ensure plenty of Zinc at first start-up and while it's wearing. Thereafter, I use a ZDDP containing oil and change it as I prescribe above.

 

But then, I refer you again to Richard Michell's excellent little book, in which he deals with a number of 'myths' about oil, including Zinc. It would be wrong or impossible for me to reproduce his four page answer, but one point is that while it's ZDDP/ZDTP ( Zinc dithiophosphate/dialkyldithiophosphate) it's the phosphate that is the wear inhibitor!

 

John

[Ashley James]

The best place for Molyslip is in sidescreen steering boxes. It actually makes a difference you can feel. I've got one of two huge tins of Graphite grease that I'm slowing emptying into my various nipples. I got them when a local RAF depot closed amd it seems a pity to waste them.