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TR250 originality


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Having purchased a tr250 (needs full resto, couldn't resist at the price!) I'm wondering about the pro's and con's of either leaving it lhd and on carbs or converting to rhd with PI, not wanting to be accused of ending up with a tr5 replica what effect does the change to rhd and PI have on the value since the vehicle would loose it's originality. Having said that modifications/improvements don't seem to have much effect financially.

 

Any thoughts!

 

Phil

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It is what it is, because of owners with less scruples owners trying to ring them into TR5s I'm sure in the near future the TR250 will gain extra popularity and value on it's own merit, maybe RHD it but keep it original and enjoy it.

 

Mick Richards

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Whether for show or driving the TR250 is a loser in stock form :(; in both cases because of the TR5's existence.

 

It will never be a TR5 in the eyes of many ( most? ) but it can in every way meet or exceed its performance with straightforward mods. Mine both have been converted to that result using triple Webers, cam and c/r changes. Others can weigh in on this point, but IMO there's no difference in value between a TR250 on P.I. and one on triple Webers if they're done properly. I recommend the Webers because they last forever and don't suffer from altitude sickness; moreover they're prettier to boot :rolleyes:.

 

I'd leave a TR5 on P.I. if I had one, but would probably have to have a '250 on Webers to drive!

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I finished my TR250 a while ago and after buying a TR5 I was so impressed with the injected engine, pulled like a train. So I converted my 250 to FI, sadly I didn't use it much and sold the old girl on.

 

I called it the splutterer, but when the spluttering stopped, it was grand.

 

I am told it now has TR5 badges, and whats wrong with that, unless of course you are trying to take an innocents spondooleys.

 

DSC05400_zps8732bc9f.jpg

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Hi

 

Thanks for the comments, the idea of triple webers is interesting, the idea of copying a tr5 is a non starter, replicas never can compete with originality however perhaps minor upgrades might be the way forward, ie webers with brake & suspension mods etc.

 

I am tempted to keep it lhd, the documents will state that the vehicle is a tr250 so as I say minor mods

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When I built my last 250 it went on webers, fast cam, big valve head, lightened and balanced etc, drove well but boy could it drink!! Having now driven several well sorted PI cars I'm going to use the original engine with a PI top end on the 250 I now have, that said - I won't be pretending its a TR5!! It will be badged as a 250.

 

I'm a big fan of webers, look great sound even better but the fuel economy was ****, I won't be going there again on a TR, even if you stick with the twin carb set up, I would bin the American spec head and fit a UK spec one

 

Good luck with the build, mine is stalled at the moment due to home improvements

 

Tom

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I am tempted to keep it lhd, the documents will state that the vehicle is a tr250 so as I say minor mods

 

Before you make a decision LHD/RHD, try and get a drive of a LHD TR. I have had my TR4A for 15 years in RHD form. When I moved to Canada I kept it RHD and don't find that a problem over here. I have recently finished my LHD TR6 and find it ackward to drive and a pain to get in and out. I am used to driving my LHD daily driver so that is not a problem, it just doesn't feel right. I am considering converting my TR250 to RHD even tho' it is likely to stay in Canada.

 

Also, have you considered supercharging your TR250, Moss do a nice kit.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

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Guess the current owner can, or should be able to, do what he likes to it.

The key bit is what he says to prospective buyers when flogging it.

All seems a bit 'anal retentive' to me, but I guess important to those who take their TR to shows on trailers, and those who bought it to show, not drive around in.

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A properly set up triple Weber set should be more economical than a PI but to get it to work you do need to have the full package i.e. head flow work/decent cam/proper induction and exhaust flow and decent ignition setup or you are wasting your time and it will drink fuel.

 

Sure R/Hand drive it but do it properly please as I see far too many bodged conversions so get the correct steering column firewall bracket and dont try and make one out of the L/hand one you have chiselled off!.

 

Buy a proper R.hand drive loom dont just extend the wires over in all the same colour using scotchlocked on or silly crimp connectors.

 

Do weld all the old holes up in the L/hand side and even fit a new toe board not just a riveted plate over it.

 

Be proud of the "250" badging as its different now with so many "TR5`s" coming out of the woodwork ;)

 

Stuart.

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Stuart

 

i bow to your superior knowledge, Dennis Vessey set mine up on his rolling road but it still drank like the proverbial fish!!

 

Everything else you mention, I agree 100%

 

Tom

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I've done circa 110,000 miles on one '250 engine with the same '60s vintage Weber DCOEs; first with only head shave and Kent cam, then with Racetorations head, exhaust and P.I. cam ( the latter recipe now has 73K miles on it ). Fuel economy is 30+ mpg IMPERIAL on the highway, and 23-24 overall. It was actually slightly higher with the first setup though not as quick.

 

Lost on many is the fact that the lowly idle jet selection determines overall fuel economy for the most part. I've got quite a selection! One step smaller or larger in the same series can account for a 20% gain/loss.

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I agree with Tom. My TR6 has all the head/cam mods and the 3xDCOE's and my fuel consumption is about the same as it was with the standard Strombergs under normal driving. Fuel level in the float bowls is critical, that can really mess things up if it is not correct and send you off on a wild goose chase swapping tubes and jets in a futile attempt to compensate for it and get the engine to run right.

 

Stan

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Stuart

 

i bow to your superior knowledge, Dennis Vessey set mine up on his rolling road but it still drank like the proverbial fish!!

 

Everything else you mention, I agree 100%

 

Tom

Does depend on how heavy your right foot is as well! :lol:

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Phil

leave it left hand drive, its a shorter walk to the kerb. Plus if you ever want to sell it, it will be worth more on the incontinent. If you can drive it doesn't matter what side the buttons are on.

 

If you want to race around at 4000 revs or more then put it on Webers. If you want to do lots of miles (touring in Europe) but also have some poke, then increase the compression ratio, put a slightly uprated cam in it. lighten and balance as much as you can afford, lighter fly wheel and put it on SU's. And call it a 250.

 

Dave B

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a thought... probably a pricy one too!

Consider perhaps leaving it in LHD BUT go for full house on head, webers etc ect INCLUDING a hi torque starter because:

if you look down the holes where the manifold goes you will see that without a steering column in the way, you have agreat big hole and LOTS of room to fabricate/procure the manifold your car always wanted with all the right length primaries etc.

So there you go there's my 6 pen'orth!

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