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Brake/Clutch Pipe -- Tank to master cylinder.


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The distance under the tank to the bodywork is very tight to make a nice bend using the manufactured pipe, with the ends attached, and using a bending tool. I have looked at two cars nearby and in each case the pipes are kinked, and just touching the bodywork below the tank. Has anyone found a nice way of making a tight bend at this location please.

Thank you Russell

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Any thoughts in this: http://www.fedhillusa.com/

I bought a roll of something similar when I did some piping on a non- British car. Don't even know if mine is the same but it had the same sort of advertising claims and I found it almost almost impossible to kink. Of course, you'd have to supply end fittings and have proper flaring equipment. Also cannot confirm if tube size (standard fractional) would be the same. Tom

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The ones I tubes I bent to fit in 1989 during my restoration are made of steel - plated with "white zinc" I used the original ones to get the bends correct. Granted that copper tubes are softer and more likely to kink.

 

So I bought long lengths of standard steel brake tubing and these came with a coil spring around the outside of the tubing. I checked that at least one end of these tubes had the correct flare needed for the end securing nuts. With the outer coil spring, I found it was quite easy to bend the steel tubing to the correct curves. Then I cut it to length and slid off the coil spring, slid on the second securing nut and set the flare.

 

See before (1987) with 80,000 miles on the TR and a more recent photo after another 94,000 miles.

Edited by Don Elliott
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  • 2 months later...

Dear All

I have just rebuilt my cylinder assembly, trying to get the pipe rads as tight as possible under the tank. I am still worried about clearance when installed. Can someone please tell me the max measurement from the 'kitchen table' to the top of the lid? Many thanks,

David

post-4464-0-70416400-1422056149_thumb.jpg

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