MarkBrash Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I've just taken the diff off my 4a and found that there's a crack in the rear mounting bracket. I think these are made of cast alloy and I'm not sure if repairing them is possible or advisable, any advice on this and on where I might be able to find a used one please ? Also, whilst I have the diff out I plan on changing the oil seals all round, this may be a stupid question but do all the main nuts come off anti clockwise, or are they handed like the wheel spinners ? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkBrash Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Things got worse when I removed the bracket from the diff and it came off in two pieces, so that's a write off and lucky I've been able to find a used replacement from one of the main suppliers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Most likely this is broken because the chassis mounts are also broken. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Most likely this is broken because the chassis mounts are also broken. No its usually down to abuse, thats why they changed the mounting on the later cars. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 What kind of abuse? What did they do to the mount? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Hi Mark, regarding your nuts They are all righthand threads (undo anticlock). You will need an extractor to remove the drive shafts for the output seals. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) What kind of abuse? What did they do to the mount? The rear housing on a 4a diff is a known weak point which is why they changed it for later models. Later mountings are webbed and the mounting bush is changed as well. The breaks are usually caused by either over enthusiastic gear changing or poor technique when using overdrive in or out. Stuart. Edited October 29, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 When is it a "later" model? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John390 Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I think he means TR5's and TR6's. Cheers John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I think he means TR5's and TR6's. Cheers John Correct. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Many thanks for answering my questions, Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Yes it is possible to repair the mount, and it's worth doing - they are getting as rare as the proverbial . . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Be a TIG job. Its also the kind of thing that would be quite easy to get re-cast in the UK and at reasonable cost. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 That depends on what one regards as reasonable . . . . ! I know that Moss investigated that route some time back, without success, and whilst remanufactured steel front mounting plates are available at £130 there's no sign of rears, still NLS. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Well this is not a difficult, high tech casting. And there is only a small amount of machining. I had these cast locally for the price of a pint and they are all different. https://flic.kr/p/fEevbH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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