BillS Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Starting to get to know the new TR4 and found that the clutch return spring and tab were missing from the slave cylinder so duly ordered one from Moss. The car has had a recent clutch fitted and the gearchange has always been decidedly knotchy but from what I have read that is normal (?). Anyhow, fitted the spring and now it is really difficult to select a gear and drags on gear change so clutch not fully disengaging, pumping helps a bit when selecting 1st gear. Also noticed that the slave cylinder support bar, the one that goes from the slave to a sump bolt is also missing. Ideas appreciated please. Cheers, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Have you adjusted the clutch slave push rod in accordance with specifications? Which hole is the push rod clevis pin attached through? Should be middle Is there a stay between the slave cyl bracket and sump to stop the plate bending? Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Do you know if the clutch was changed for the diaphragm type used on the 4a? The reason I ask is that the 4a doesn't have a return spring; the cluch travel is therefore self adjusting. Fitting a spring in this case would pull the slave cylinder piston a bit and give lost travel which would account for difficult gear changes. If you have the original TR4 clutch the slave cylinder operating rod should be adjustable and there's a clearance specified in the manual. If you don't have an adjustable slave rod I suspect that fitting the spring is causing lost motion as above and you'll need the adjustable rod. The missing stay won't help but I don't know how much the slave mounting bracket bends under normal use. Edited October 26, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BillS Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Thanks both, will check tomorrow to see if the rod is adjustable and also to see if the previous owner knows which clutch was fitted - didn't know the 4A doesn't have the spring so very useful info thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Good luck Bill. By way of background a change of clutch for the 4a diaphragm type would have necessitated a change of flywheel or re drilling of the original. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 If you havent got the stay rod fitted then the mounting plate will bend which doesnt help. I always prefer to fit the return spring but if you do fit one then you need to push the slave pushrod right back into the cylinder before doing the clearance adjustment. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BillS Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thank you for your replies so far - adjustment was way out so now readjusted to 0.1" inch. It is better but the point of bite is with the clutch pedal almost fully down. The clutch was renewed recently by the previous owner and fitted by a local garage, ie not TR specialist. Tomorrow will bleed the system, but in the meantime any other ideas on how to improve the operation appreciated. Cheers, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 As Peter W States the clevis pin should be in the middle hole of the operating lever. If it's already in that hole you could try it in the top hole which might improve things at the expense of slightly heavier operation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Hi Bill, what is the condition of all the holes/clevis pins. If the holes are worn/oval then this can affect the piston TRavel. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BillS Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Good thought Roger, will check when I crawl under the car again tomorrow. Cheers, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 After replacing my 4a's clutch plate I couldn't get it to disengage with the 'book' settings. I put it up on jack stands and 'tuned' it by hand until it worked OK. Ended up with the connector in the 'top' hole of the three on the lever, and the adjuster wound out near to the end. When it eventually wears a bit I might move it back to the middle hole and do more adjusting, at present still working perfectly. I made the assumption that the nice mans at the clutch plate factory had given me more 'meat' on it than the original had. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Also check the clevis pin clearance on the pedal to master cylinder as an elongated hole there will lose you adjustment as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BillS Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Hi all, still got the same problem, ie clutch disengages with pedal almost on floor. Have done following: Replaced slave and master cylinder fitted slave steady bar, mine was missing checked adjustment on slave cylinder So is it time to get the gearbox out and if so what should i look for? Thanks, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 What's the condition of the pedal clevis pin and hole? It doesn't need much slop to have a big effect. Likewise the slave cylinder clevis pin and hole. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Cross shaft taper pin buggered? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 What's the condition of the pedal clevis pin and hole? It doesn't need much slop to have a big effect. Likewise the slave cylinder clevis pin and hole. I already said that. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Hi Bill, to sum up - if the slave is on the middle hole of the lever, all the joints are in good order and no air in the system the you are looking at the taper pin as PeterF stated above. From under the car; if you disconnect the slave cylinder from the cross shaft lever the lever should be dropping straight down when the bearing is touching the diaphragm. Is it pointing rearwards a fair bit. Also try moving the lever forwards (moves the fork rearwards) and then gently move the lever rearwards. When you feel the bearing touch the diaphragm does the lever continue to move rearwards. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 I already said that. Stuart. Quite so and Roger also. I reiterated it because Bill hasn't reported on their condition. Sorry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) Apologies didn't read all the previous posts. My thoughts are already covered. Edited November 20, 2014 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BillS Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Holes ok with little ovality(?). Will crawl under and check lever movement. Cheers, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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