phil3uh Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi all, I'm up to my arm pits in deep doodoo and am appealing for someone with knowledge of TR7 , with a sprint engine. Mine spluttered to a halt after misfiring and refused to re start. So after getting a tow back home I decided to change the plugs, oh joy three were BPR6EF and one a BPR6EFS a plug with a larger thread so I can only assume a previous owner stripped a plug in the head and had to tap it out to the next size! So three new ones were fitted and the oversize one refitted Next the condenser and points, the fun really starts here get the distributor cap off undo the phillips headed screw remove the condeser, with a damaged lead, but no it will not let go of a small metal plate which in turn has a wire which passes through the distributor body via a grommet and joins some wires with a lucar attatched to the end. The new condenser is different to the one on the car and the points bear no resemblence to the ones removed. Can anyone give me the part numbers I should order and adivse me o how to replace the condenser? I am en closing some photos in the vain hope someone will recognise the offending articles. Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 There is no dimensional difference between a BPR6EF and a BPR6EFS plug . They are both the same size and thread (14mm). Its possible the previous owner has fitted an 18mm thread-adaptor such as supplied for vintage cars and has tapped the head to suit. You should be able to separate the plug from the adaptor in order to fit the new one. I'm not familiar with the '7 but the new points and capacitor don't look like Lucas - they look like Delco to me, which I believe is the standard TR7 fitment (?) . I think the Sprint engine uses a Lucas distributor which is what your old cap and points are. You probably need the ones which fit a Dolomite Sprint if you can't find them listed for the TR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
REPLIC8 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi there, Can't help you with your electrical problem, but how far did you get towed home? Hopefully you either had the rear wheels elevated or removed the propshaft, otherwise you may have caused serious damage to your gearbox! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 er! Isn't the dolly sprint 10mm plugs? IIRC they were tapered plugs? And only needed the lightest of 'nips' to ensure a gas tight seal otherwise they would seize in the head, I used to bed them down then no more than an eight of a turn. I'm sure I used to remove the distributor completely and work on the bench. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil3uh Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Thanks guys, I knew someone would have some answers, There are both types of points and distributers shown in the Haynes manual but neither look like mine , but I will do as suggested and ask for dolomite sprint points and condensor. I was towed about 2 miles so hope that wont cause any gearbox problems. Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi Phil, when towing a TR7 I have been told, recently, to treat it like an automatic. Roge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Not knowing much about the sprint engine I can only go on what info is on the web Dave ( I assume it is Dave. apologies if not ). The Dolly sprint plug does seem to be BPR6EFS according to the owners forum and that is definitely a standard 14mm plug. Re the other posts - what is odd about the TR7 box that means you can't tow it normally as you would any RWD car? Edited October 25, 2014 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi Phil, when towing a TR7 I have been told, recently, to treat it like an automatic. Roge Why? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 This link http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1342884205/ seems to indicate that the towing thing is a myth caused by duff gen in the original handbook. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil3uh Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi Neil I have just been on other we sites who's general concensus is that there was some misprint and the no towing relates to the automatic gearbox not manual. I hope I'm right. Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 I've seen LT77 boxes in TR, SD1 and Sherpa alike apparently damaged by being towed, hence I wouldn't share the view that the original handbook advice is entirely a myth or a misprint. As I understand it the internal pump is necessary to adequately lubricate the gearbox, and I think I'm right in saying is driven from the input . . . . . a few miles of gentle towing may not do any harm, but any more than that does not seem to be of any benefit to the gearbox - the opposite in fact. Presumably splash lubrication alone is insufficient. The problem seemed, in period, to be greater with the early generation of LT77 boxes than the later variants. Regardless of theory, I'm more influenced by what seems to happen in practice - and as for Land Rover fitment, not my area of interest or knowledge. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John390 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 When my TR8 broke down (faulty alternator) The AA man checked up with his 'book of words' and jacked the rear wheels up onto his dolly and towed on the front wheels having strapped the steering wheel in centre. He was not going to take any chances, but a previous AA man did tow me the 3 miles home when I had another problem. The gearbox is still OK! Cheers John ps I am sorry I cannot help with your main problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 The Sprint engine uses a Lucas 44D4 distributor, unlike any of the other Lucas dizzies fitted to other 4 cylinder Triumphs, which normally use 25D4 or 45D4. I don't know how the internals differ but suggest you go to one of the known Triumph specialists for the correct points and condenser. I've used Robsport for ignition parts on my Sprint engined TR7. The plugs should have 10mm threads. Good luck, Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 The BPR6EFS plug is as follows B - 14mm thread diameter P - Projected insulator R - inbuilt resistor 6 - Temp rating (5 is hotter, 7 is cooler) EF - Tapered seat with 17.5,, reach S - Standard 2.5mm centre electrode. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 In a discussion with Wayne earlier in the week, I understood that the LT77 gearbox in the TR7 (and the V8 versions) has a pump in the gearbox, and that this is driven from the input shaft. Towing with the rear wheels rotating would mean that oil would not be circulated in the gearbox, and damage will occur. Of course, a short tow at low speed might inflict negligible damage, but TR7s should be towed either with the rear wheels off the ground (as John described in Post #12), or the car should be placed on a flat-bed truck. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Odd Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Or with the prop shaft removed... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil3uh Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Right ,then that's settled , the overwhelming thoughts are do not tow it far, if at all. I hope the slow 2/3miles hasn't fudged it! Thanks to Robh for the info re the head insert, on removal and wire brushing the threads it is obviously some sort of thread adaptor. Anyone any ideas as how to remove it without damaging the thread, and when refitting should loctite be used to stop it coming out with the plug next time? Thanks also for the info from Roger re the plugs, and also Nigel Triumph for the distributor gen. I have got the bits coming from Grimmers. Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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