Lynx Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 Good Morning! Does anyone have any advice on "upgrading" (may not be the purist route) the Lucas DB10 relay set-up which uses the rear brake lights as indicators to separate indicators which should be on my 3a. My TR3a was wired at restoration with a DB10 unit to make it more like a TR2. I've been flashed and shouted at etc by drivers behind who had not realised that the winking brake light was actually an indicator! Any suggestions much appreciated. Regards Andrew King Swanage TR3a with TR2 rear indicators! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saggy Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 I've followed TR4's with the same arrangement and just know that a flashing red is indicating to turn. Those who flash and shout at you are just plainly lacking any intelligence whatsoever - natural selection should have got rid of their blood line centuries ago BUT it seems they still walk among us. My advice is send them for some education in America where all indicators are a red flashing brake - Alabama would be a good state - shout at anyone there for a flashing red and you WILL be shot. Problem sorted ! ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 If its a 3A does it still have the lamp pedestals on the boot which should carry the amber indicators, or were those removed in the restoration ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 I have the same setup on my TR3, did not know the type of relay used - but it came off a 1963 Morris 1000 ! only changes I have made to that setup is to move the front sidelights to the headlamp reflectors (using LED bulbs) and the replacing the clear front indicator lenses with amber ones. Also put a dual colour LED bulb in the centre stop lamp such that if NOT braking only the clear part is on to illuminate the number plate, but bright red comes on when braking, giving a "modern" three brake light effect. I have never had any problems with followers miss interpreting my signals. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 If you want to fit separate indicator lights at the rear, it should be fairly simple just by swapping a few wires on the DB10 relay. I think the following will work provided your system is wired the normal way: Find out which front indicator lamp is connected to terminal 2 of the relay. Connect the appropriate new rear lamp to this terminal, in parallel . Connect the other new rear indicator to terminal 6 of the relay in parallel with the existing wire from the other front indicator lamp. Disconnect the brake light wires from terminals 3 and 7 and connect them both to terminal 5 in parallel with the existing wire from the brake switch. This stops them flashing with the indicators. Thats it. Fingers crossed and good luck. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lynx Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Thanks to everyone who has contributed an answer/comment. Whilst I generally agree it should be plainly obvious to anyone behind what my turn intention is I think on balance I will try and "upgrade" my TR3 to separate rear indicators. The original bosses were removed at the restoration so I have carte blanche to add some alternative form of yellow lens fitting; LED perhaps? Thanks particularly to RobH for the detailed instructions which match those I have subsequently found in this Jaguar XK link http://www.rogerlearmonth.com/Roger_Learmonths_Website/Blog_5.html Certainly worth some experimentation in the cold wet winter months to keep boredom at bay. Regards and thanks again Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Andrew - if you go for LEDS or a mix of incandescent and LED you might find the flashers either don't work or else work at a peculiar speed. If that happens you will have to change the flasher unit for one which is suitable for LED lamps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 LEDs - by placing a resistor in parallel with each lamp, the old-fashioned flasher unit can be deceived into thinking that a filament lamp is in place, so the flash rate will remain as before. Some (all?) suppliers of LED lamps can supply such resistors (I am told by NLG members that Paul Goff does - see his website). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 LEDs - by placing a resistor in parallel with each lamp, the old-fashioned flasher unit can be deceived into thinking that a filament lamp is in place, so the flash rate will remain as before. Some (all?) suppliers of LED lamps can supply such resistors (I am told by NLG members that Paul Goff does - see his website). Ian Cornish Hi Ian, You are correct in that using parallel resistors solves the flasher load requirements for the bimetallic strip based flasher units, but it means the LED/resistor combination is dumping energy rather than working more efficiently. I have switched lights to LEDs to reduce the power consumption, so to add current dumping resistors in parallel would completely defeat my reason for switching to LEDs. The cost of a suitable flasher to support LEDs is fairly low and makes more sense for me. Kind regards TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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