foster461 Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Test fitting the rear bumperettes and the top of the RHS sticks out from the rear end by half an inch more than the LHS. Dont see any differences with the bottom of the bracket or the distance tube so I'm assuming I can fix this by bending the RHS bracket to move the top in half an inch. Questions is do I need to heat that bracket before I try and bend it or will it move just by sticking it in a vice and hitting it ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I'd definitely take a BFH to it before bothering with heating it. It's steel, and you're not working it a lot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR24178 Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Lay the brackets on top of one another to find where to bend the bracket, but also to decide which one is bent, trial fit a bumperette on each bracket on the car and decide which one is correct. It may then be better to heat the area needing to be realigned so that you bend it in the correct place. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Lay the brackets on top of one another to find where to bend the bracket, but also to decide which one is bent, trial fit a bumperette on each bracket on the car and decide which one is correct. It may then be better to heat the area needing to be realigned so that you bend it in the correct place. John Laying one on top of the other is sound advice but you do need to know that one is correct as they are very often both bent! They do bend fairly easy held in a vice and use a good size pair of Stilsons (Monkey Wrench for you Americans) to bend . Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I 'adjusted' mine by bending in a vice, as the adjustment was small, no heat required, just a few thumps with a large hammer. You would need to use oxy/acetelene to heat sufficiently to reach the plastic state to make large bends. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I'd bend these cold but I would anneal them first. Bending produces work hardening and encourages cracks. Undoing a bend and moving it is then asking for a break. If you lay up a small "cave" with bricks then a large Propane torch will get you to cherry red. Not only will this reduce the chance of cracking, they will bend easier. I'm assuming the material for these is thicker than 3/16in, probably about 1/4in thick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I'm with Stuart. I bent mine cold using a vice and a large stillson. Rgds Ian PS Keep the stillson handy as you will need it to make the sidescreens fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) I found a combination of large stillsons, and large (plummers type) adjustable spanner were need to "adjust" the various bends in my sidescreens. worthwhile to get that perfect fit to the screen & the hood. The overrider irons would only need a small adjustment so personally I would do it cold using vice, & hammer. Bob. Edited October 22, 2014 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Thanks all for the guidance. I'll pull the RHS bumper off later today and give it a shot. I will have to do some bending with the sidescreen frames when I get to that stage. I was just starting the discussion with TRF about soft top and sidescreen materials and colors that would look good with the pooftah blue paint and the midnight blue trim. The sidescreen frames are not from this car (it had aftermarket alu sidescreens that are incomplete) so I'm sure the replacement frames will need fettling. I expect that will be a whole new topic in a few months when I have some paint on the outer panels Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 is this how i cure my rear bumpers both leaning to the right? I undid one bolt and it disappeared down the tube :-( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 is this how i cure my rear bumpers both leaning to the right? I undid one bolt and it disappeared down the tube :-( There is some play in both the bracket and the bumperette attachment. If you back off the two bolts that secure the bracket to the frame you can see how much you can twist the assembly and if that is not enough pull the bracket off and see if it looks bent/twisted. These brackets have taken a beating over the last 50 years so it may be hard to find one that doesnt need some form of adjustment. Or you could follow Andrew Smith and consider it patina. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 ...Stillsons (Monkey Wrench for you Americans)... Stuart, I think "pipe wrench" is probably the better term for a Stillson wrench over here. Although many Americans will indeed call a pipe wrench a monkey wrench, technically a monkey wrench is a variation of an adjustable wrench (your coach wrench?). The pipe wrench/Stillson wrench has that characteristic swinging jaw that locks the tool onto the work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Lacking precision tools like a large plumbers wrench I put the bracket in the vice and hit it twice with a 3 lb sledge hammer. Seems to have done the trick. Had to repaint the bracket so will re-check once the paint dries and it is all assembled. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR24178 Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 I do have my own oxy/acetylene but its getting very expensive if you don't use it much, lucky we need it for work!! Don't start me off about BOC Gently heating them enough to make them match perfectly will not induce cracking and brittleness, they hardly do anything but hold the bumperettes, if hit from behind they are too strong anyway and the result is mangle coachwork and distorted chassis bracketry, so no need to worry about a bit of gentle heat!! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Stuart, I think "pipe wrench" is probably the better term for a Stillson wrench over here. Although many Americans will indeed call a pipe wrench a monkey wrench, technically a monkey wrench is a variation of an adjustable wrench (your coach wrench?). The pipe wrench/Stillson wrench has that characteristic swinging jaw that locks the tool onto the work. Ah OK thanks for the clarification Don. An adjustable wrench here is just called an adjustable spanner. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Rear overiders tubes ....are they supposed to be loose or attached to the rear apron? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 They should be sliding fit through the rear apron Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Cheers Bob. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Are you using the original long bolt and tube arrangement to attach the rear o/rider brackets? If not yet commited consider the alternative 602001S http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=KG9NV48V2UMH8GQF5538SKCCAFKB291E&CarType=TR2&ProductID=602001S It is a length of round bar - male thread at one end for the chassis, then a female threaded hole at the outer end to accept the bracket. You can remove/fit the over riders without having to crawl under the car plus the long bolt of the orig arrangement does not seize in the tube making getting it to bits a complete nightmare. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Peter that does sound sensible. The reason I queried was simply because at present the tube is a very loose fit in the rear apron....looks naff! So the apron aperture need sorting and I seemed to think that when I first rebuilt it the apron and tube were adjoined.....tightly....probably rust but perhaps welded or leaded? Hence the original question. I like the Revington idea though, have you used it, got a picture? Cheers Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Yes I have them on my car and the system is a doddle. I think I have a spare set in the garage and will look them out and photo for you - if I can find them. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 You still need a tube through the back panel for the long bolt to go through whatever system you use. I agree with Pete the bar with threaded ends is the best solution for fixing though. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 file:///Users/admin/Desktop/602001s.PDF Here is a rough idea of what you are after Can not find my spares - the diameter is measured from the ones on my car As Stuart says you will still need some thin wall tubes for this to fit through in your rear apron 602001s.PDF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Peter and Stuart thanks for your guidance. Off to the cave to make some Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 If anyone is interested, I have a spare set of tubes in my garage - they are a non standard size. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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