nibbo Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Hi All, as you may or may not know I am in the process of a body off full resto. Before I put the body back on the chassis I am toying with the idea of removing the old trailing arm brackets ( which I have lovingly repainted ha ha ) and fitting fully adjustable brackets to make Toe and Camber adjustments easier. Where in your opinion is the best place in the UK to purchase these. Kind regards Nigel (Nibbo) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Nigel, There was heated discussion on adjustable brackets a few months back..... Some see snags, others sliced bread. Worth a search. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 With the adjustable brackets you still adjust toe in using shims as per standard but camber and ride height (to a degree) are easy to adjust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 When setting the TA brackets from scratch, what is the starting position of the brackets, notches uppermost, and which on the inside and the outside? I know then you have to do a camber test, and then readjust to get the best setting from the good info from the Buckeye notes. There doesn't seem to be any info in the service manual, perhaps I missed it? Some guidance on this would be helpful please. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 John Definite instructions are not a lot of help as so many different spring rates and lengths are now used. I suggest set it up with similar bracket postions both sides, settle the car by running to and fro, and bouncing it, and measure the camber. Then use geometry to estimate the change in the inner bracket bolt position. Thus If the top of the tyre is say 10mm too far in at the top you need to move the inner bolt up, and/or the outer down. So the difference between them matches the mm shift you want. Regard the ground as the pivot point and the rest is done with right angle geometry. Like working out a lever. Do the same both sides and see how much better the camber gets. Toe shims dont alter the camber much and can be set the same way. Sound difficult but sketching the 'levers' on paper helps. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HarveyCoppock Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Found a crack between the chassis mount holes in one of mine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Harvey, Like this? http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?76866-TR6-Trailing-Arm-Bracket-Crack I had two vertical cracks in each arm of the 'U' that allowed the bolt to come free and the t/a to rise into the wheel arch. Cause was a side impact a year or so previously that pushed the car sideways. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 ...or like this on a 4A. Again side impact. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Looking at Rogere phot it seems so obvious that the holes should have been spaced horizontally. The back face is curved because of the cyclic loading. The bracket has no force rocking it in the direction where the bolts hold it best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HarveyCoppock Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Yep like that... luckily for me I found it before failure. Beefed them up since. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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