MikeTR-6 Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 (edited) Hi all Similar to last post . I purchases a new hood cover for my late TR3a some time last year . On fitting this weekend I now fined that All the fixings on the new cover are Tenax . Fit is OK on the screen but all the pins on the rest of the body are Lift the Dot , the pins are too big. Also the positioning of the lift the Dot pin by the 'B' post is out by about 3" . The pin on the body is too far back. I can fit another fixing but the bit cover towards the front will flap about. Two types of hood cover? Unfortunately I my old cover last year for a song. I remember something along these lines and a reply by Stuart but cant find it on a search. Any advice appreciated. Mike Edited October 6, 2014 by MikeTR-6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rhino_mac Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 I think each hood is fitted individually to the car, so a hood that is purchased from another car may not fit yours correctly. I bought mine from Moto Build and it came with all of the LTD fittings in a little bag rather than ready fitted. I'm going to attempt to fit it at the weekend but I understand it to be a pretty lengthy process if you've not done it before. To confirm my understanding, where the hood attaches to the windscreen is Tenax fitting, and all the other fittings should be lift the dot so your pegs should match these types. If you have Tenax fittings on the hood all round, you would need to change the pegs on your cars body to Tenax so the hood fits the rest of the body. However, if your pegs are in the wrong place (or perhaps the hood has been punched to another car where the pegs are in the wrong place), I would suggest that you sell the hood and source a new one that hasn't had the fittings stamped in to it as you will need to drill another hole in the body to fit a peg in the correct place. After all, your pegs might be in the right place. If the previous owner used all Tenax, I'd wonder if he is "wrong" on this, he might have had some funny ideas on Peg location on his own car as well. Sorry, probably not helpful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Hi Mike, I think the early side screens (TR2) had Tenax fittings all round so it sounds as if you may have the wrong type of hood. As for position, if it would help I could send you a photo showing where my LTD pins are because I know they are correctly placed. PM me if interested. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 Early TR2`s had Tenax all round though they were the miniature versions. They also had the peg on the quarter in a different place so that hood is basically no good to you Im afraid. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) Is there a consensus on whether lift the dot or Tenax are better? I have the tenax and they don't all snap firmly on. Dan Edited October 7, 2014 by 2long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Lift the dot will last longer - I have then along the windscreen as well as elsewhere. Tenax work well until they get damaged by incorrect use. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR24178 Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Tenax are very good, they only come unsnapped if you put the top on quickly in the rain, if you check carefully that they are properly attached they never come off. If one does go defective (not happened yet) they are so easy to change if you carry a spare, a small long nose pliers is perfect for undoing the back nut. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Original Tenax were very good and did tend to last forever unless abused but there is a lot of rubbish repros around now that dont last five minutes as the little spring clip inside that holds the three clinch sections together isnt made of spring steel!. Whereas the repro lift the dots all seem to be fine. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Worth pointing out also that the early Tenax pins are a different size to the later or repro ones. If you use a later Tenax with the earlier ball pins they may stay under tension but they will come undone. Also pointed out by Stuart at one stage the repro ball pins are also slightly longer than the original ones on the screen and have a pointed top rather than the ball shape. Most times Tenax that come adrift at the front is due to the seal lip and the hood material capture being too thick, I have holes only the size of the nut part of the tenax as it keeps the tension and lip in position better. Personally I would not use LTD's on the screen edge due to the immediate almost 90 degree change in angle of the material as it passes over the screen. The strain created by wind pressure at the leading edge of the hood would IN MY VIEW lead to issues over time. The Tenax were used by ST even when they changed to LTD's for the rest of the fittings. They tended to do things for good reason. LTDs work best with a straight pull but not well with an angular one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR24178 Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 Proper Tenax are ok, don't buy the repro ones, buy Tenax, but of course if they come with a ready made top, their source in unknown to you. My tenax screen studs came from TRF, I made my own top (we run a company in an associated trade) and bought proper Tenax from one of my oldest suppliers, they have not failed or given a problem, they hold on like mad, and if you are trying to take the top off with cold fingers it takes some effort due to the strong spring. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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