Jump to content

Clanging on take off after reset static timing...


Recommended Posts

Long story short, I ended up having to reset my static timing. Took my time and thought I had it dialed it in. Then I set the carbs and lastly fuel mixture via colortune. Thought it was a bit on the rich side to be safe with a hint of blue at idle.

 

At idle in the garage it ran fine, except when I took it out for a drive, I could hear a "clang" on initial acceleration for a couple of seconds, after that no sound, though it started to run a bit rough after a couple of streets. Noticed my fuel filter (see through type) was not "full". Could this come down to just a fuel pump gone bad? Unscrewed the bowl and pumped the primer, but gas stayed to top of the glass bowl. I noticed when I was dialing it in, it died a couple of times of fuel starvation (no gas at all in the filter), requiring me to re-prime the pump handle. Or is this a timing issue for some reason and I should abandon the static method for ear - advancing the distributor until it starts to stall, and dial it back a bit (what I do in my old Willys).

 

Hate to spend $80 on a new fuel pump it if it is not the cure. I do notice that the distributor is now turned further towards the front/passenger side than before (more clockwise). Guessing the previous owner may have set it the timing at the end of the open on the points and not the beginning.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would recommend that you start from scratch. Get your engine at true TDC and set the distributor to point

in the direction of No.1 cylinder as per the workshop manual and then 'fine' adjust the timing with a strobe.

Obviously it's important that the crank pulley is marked in the TDC position.

Hope this helps.

 

Best regards ~

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, strobe not a possibility as the only markings on the pulley are a hole at TDC...also can't get the to crank to rotate the engine with the radiator in....that's why this was my "weekend project" as I also had replace the old fan as the plastic blade began snapping when I tried to set the set the static timing last weekend...

 

Used a test light and thought I had it at the exact moment the point separated when the light kicked on...

Link to post
Share on other sites

To rotate the engine: put the car in gear, leave handbrake (emergency brake) off and rock/roll the car forwards with the distributor cap off until the hole in the pulley wheel is exactly against the marker with the rotor arm pointing at the contact for spark plug #1. This is REALLY easy if you take the plugs out (maybe too easy...) but can be done with the plugs in too. Then you can set the timing at 0 degrees by rotating the distributor (remember to rotate it in the same direction as when the engine is running - otherwise you can set the timing on the wrong side of the "lobe" - I know, I've done it!). Use the fine adjuster to advance it 4 degrees and then give it a try.

 

One thing that is important, as Tom says, is to check that this is TRUE TDC. It's not likely too far out, but if you go through the process again and still have a problem, it may be that the pointer and hole don't actually line up at TDC.

 

I'd suggest going through the whole process first to see how it is before you worry TOO much about "true" TDC, but others may disagree.

 

BTW - apologies if this is all stuff you already know...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, strobe not a possibility as the only markings on the pulley are a hole at TDC...also can't get the to crank to rotate the engine with the radiator in....that's why this was my "weekend project" as I also had replace the old fan as the plastic blade began snapping when I tried to set the set the static timing last weekend...

 

Used a test light and thought I had it at the exact moment the point separated when the light kicked on...

 

 

If you don't have advance markings on the pulley (eg if you have a narrow belt conversion) you need a timing lamp that will allow you to dial in the amount of advance you need. You then rotate the distributor to bring the timing marks back into line and you have set the required advance. First, as has been said, you need to be sure that your TDC mark is actually at TDC and for this you need to use a piston stop with number one cylinder on the firing stroke. Bring the piston gently up to the stop and mark the pulley opposite the fixed TDC pointer with a pencil, then rotate the engine backwards to the stop and make another mark. Bisect the marks on the pulley and that is TDC.

 

Don't worry about the inline filter not being full, mine isn't.

Edited by peejay4A
Link to post
Share on other sites

Missing a piston stop...guess I'll pick one up this week. Do you know what size I need (12, 14, 16, 18mm) and how long it should be, or does it really matter since you are splitting the gap when you hit it in opposite directions? (i.e., just needs to be long enough to make contact with the piston. Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Regarding your fuel/gas filter - is this the glass bowl attached to the fuel pump or have you also got an in-line glass filter.

 

The glass bowl attached to the fuel pump should be full - otherwise the pump will just be sucking air (it doesn't do this very well).

The fuel tank position should allow fuel to fill the filter bowl by gravity. If it doesn't you have a blockage somewhere.

 

If you have an in-line filter what is its orientation.?

It should be vertical and there is an arrow on it to show fule flow direction.

Mine is horizontal and there is always air in it but the fuel covers the outlet port.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi F1. Plug thread size is 14mm. My piston stop measures 40mm from the shoulder at the top of the thread (butts up against the cylinder head) and the tip of the stop. Like Roger, my inline filter is more or less horizontal. I didn't know they were supposed to be vertical but that's the only way it can go and it works fine with some air in it. If yours is empty then it does sound like you have a fuel pump issue.

Edited by peejay4A
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to all. Fuel filter is actually more like 45 as I spliced it in from the bottom of the engine bay to the bowl next to the pump. I'll try to double check the timing, but move onto the fuel pump as next suspect. This all started when I thought it was a condenser issue b/c after engine got hot and I would get on it, it was start to sputter, cough and die and would not restart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, strobe not a possibility as the only markings on the pulley are a hole at TDC...also can't get the to crank to rotate the engine with the radiator in....that's why this was my "weekend project" as I also had replace the old fan as the plastic blade began snapping when I tried to set the set the static timing last weekend...

 

Used a test light and thought I had it at the exact moment the point separated when the light kicked on...

 

If you put a dab ot white paint on the pulley where the hole is then you can use the strobe/timing light. I would start by setting the engine at TDC and setting the static timing as described in the workshop manual. Are you sure the existing fuel pump is correctly installed ?

 

I have never used a piston stop, you should be able to get a good idea on wether your TDC is correct by the position of the valves and where the distributor arm is pointing, if it points at or close to #1 spark plug lead and both the valves are closed then it is likley that the TDC mark is in the correct place.

 

cheers

 

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog
Link to post
Share on other sites

Dashpots full. More like a few clangs for about 3 seconds on initial throttle while in gear. Don't hear a thing in the garage idling, though....but it doesn't sound or feel like the tranny, definitely engine...

Link to post
Share on other sites

If this has only happened since altering the timing, I would suggest that it is pinking from advanced timing. Retard it as Peejay says above.

 

Graeme

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did wonder about "clanging" and as it started after a timing change - and with a rich mixture a recipe for pinking if it was over advanced. What sort of a clang is it F1? High pitched tinkling perhaps?

 

Edit: Synchronised brain waves with Graeme.

Edited by peejay4A
Link to post
Share on other sites

Kind of like diesel clatter, but a bit louder, higher pitched, and more "metallic" sound...almost like it's too lean on a ignition kill and you have run on...

That's pinking, aka 'spark knock'. Ignition is too advanced and/or mixture way too lean.

Simplest way to set timing is to run warmed-up engine at tickover and turn the disy a few mm to and fro until you get fastest tickover. Then reclamap the disy.

If that doesnt get rid of all the pinking richen the mixture until it goes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On my Willys when I set the timing by ear there is a much smaller window (like 20 degrees) between advance/retard and the engine starting to stall. I usually just find the split between the point it starts to die and when I start hearing it pinking. On the TR, that spread is more like 45 degrees. Didn't know if it good to split the gap or just set it more at the retarded side of things to be safe (i.e., when it begins to fizzle/die and just advance it a tad). Got a stop piston tool on order to see if TDC was off on the crank pulley. None of the local auto parts stores had one. Go figure.

Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE: Timing was bit off, but once I got it set and was adjusting the carbs, they kept dying after a bit. Checked the floats and both bowls were completely empty. Going to buy a new fuel pump and hope that takes care of things.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.