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Gearbox and Overdrive removal


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Yes, and you will need a jack under the engine, as the

engine needs to be lowered a fraction to allow the gearbox

flange to clear the bulkhead.

 

To re-fit, it's a big help to have another jack under the car,

manoevre the gearbox onto it - that gives more control in

re-locating it to the engine.

 

And something to protect the floors as the gearbox is heavy,

and paint will be scratched off.

 

I haven't removed the steering wheel before to do this, but

Yes, it would help.

 

Possible on your own - but not easy.

Far better to do all the preparation, then enlist a bit of help.

 

AlanR

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Hi Dave,

 

I've always taken them out the gut busting way from inside after removing the tunnel and passenger seat. Having had a break from TRs for the last 18 years I've come to realise that my Mk1 buggered knees and general erosion of strength means my son will have to remove it next time if we do it from inside the car (he's 6' 7" and 17 stone so lifting things doesn't normally present him with a problem ! ).

On the other hand now I have a Hydraulic scissor lift insert in the floor, I've theorised that after removing the tunnel and disconnecting propshaft and the rear gearbox O/drive mounting crossmember and removing the exhaust pipe, the gearbox should come out from underneath. Placed upon a slave trolley after wiggling it out and just lifting the entire car up a meter and then pulling the trolley with gearbox and O/drive on out forwards, sounds like a plan but until I've tried it not sure.

 

Mick Richards

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Hi Mick,

I may be completely wrong (as usual) but aren't the floor panels in the way.

When you pull the Gb backwards to clear the input shaft from the clutch pressure plate the bell housing is over the floor panel.

It is on the 4A and also the 4.

 

Can the GB AND engine come out together through the front - as per a 4/4A. This is a lot more work but there is no heavy lifting (except for the hoist doing its part).

 

Roger

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Yes engine and gearbox assy will go out together on a sidescreen car.

Needs the tail of the car raised or be working over a pit.

And yes, shed loads more work taking the apron off and rad out.

Still have to take the tunnel out to get the gearbox mount plate out and undo the prop shaft.

 

Peter W

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I used a very helpful mechanic called Alan who trades as Cox and Buckles.

 

Take out all the seats and carpets, remove the gear lever and protect the edge of the dashboard.

 

Send it to ORS in Sheffield and give it back to Alan afterwards. Replace the clutch plate while you are in there.

 

Good luck

 

Richard & H.

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I replaced the gearbox on my 3, & my Dove several times back in the 70's, & I'm pretty sure that with the front on ramps, & tunnel off (to get at the bell housing bolts) I took it out from underneath.

 

Bob.

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Hi Mick,

I may be completely wrong (as usual) but aren't the floor panels in the way.

When you pull the Gb backwards to clear the input shaft from the clutch pressure plate the bell housing is over the floor panel.

It is on the 4A and also the 4.

 

Can the GB AND engine come out together through the front - as per a 4/4A. This is a lot more work but there is no heavy lifting (except for the hoist doing its part).

 

Roger

No Roger and Chris I believe you are quite correct and the box+ OD have to come out through the inside of the car on a 3A.

I have a 4 post lift and tried to remove it from underneath as it would have been easier but certainly in my case the floor pans prevented it.

Its a bit of a struggle but doable by yourself but another helper would make life a lot easier especially on re installation.

 

Alan T's trolley that he constructed and described in an earlier post does give you much more control though.

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