Grill fit.

[Rodbr]

I have managed to get hold of a NOS grill panel which I have tried as a temporary measure and find the car runs 5 -10 degrees cooler due to the increased flow capacity.

I was unable to line up all the holes and so refitted the original one till I have more time. I would be interested in suggestions for a fix for the hole position changes which tend to be about half a hole out of line.

 

I need non invasive solutions and I thought about putting on a blob of JB Weld behind each hole and leaving till hard and re-driling the holes. Any other solutions gratefully received. Obviously the ideal would be to re-weld and start again but as the apron is painted that isn't an option.

 

rgds

Rod

[littlejim]

Your JB weld idea sounds good to me. Could you incorporate a bit of fibreglass mat in there as well?

[Fireman049]

Hi Rod ~

 

I would certainly go down the JB Weld road. I've used it on other things and it's really good.

 

Tom.

[Rodbr]

Hi Tom/Littlejem,

I have had a look and I think that perhaps a strip of alloy/steel or even plastic sheet bonded in place with JB Weld is the way to go as it gives something for the screw to bite into, I would be concerned that the JB would possibly strip a self cut thread. I want to use small c/s dome head screws that suit the countersunk holes in the grill. Too large and they sit too high.

 

Thanks both.

Rgds

Rod

Edited September 28, 2014 by Rodbr

[boggie]

Whilst JB Weld is very good, the problem you might have is that it is sotfter than steel so when you try and drill the new hole right next to the existing hole, the drill is likely wander into it. To prevent this in the past I have clamped a small piece of sheet steel on the outside and drilled through this first. Doing so effectively creates a guide that ensures the drill follows the desired path. Having a plate bonded behind the front apron for the self-tapper to hook into is a good idea too.

 

Another suggestion is fitting a 2BA rivnut at each mount point and fitting the grill with a nice set of stainess 2BA cuntersunk screws rather than using self tappers. I have done this in the past; not only does it look more professional and avoid the self-tapping issues over time of the holes getting larger but it also prevents rust starting around the self tapper holes...

 

Good luck!

Edited September 28, 2014 by boggie

[Don Elliott]

For 25 years, the grille on my 1958 TR3A is secured, not by spire nuts, but by 8 small pieces of soft pine wood that I glued into place with JB Weld. Then I drilled into the soft pine and the screws are all aligned in the correct place and if I ever want to remove the grille, I don't need to concern myself with those awful spire nuts. When it come time to screw the grille back into place the screws easily go back into the same holes in the pieces of wood. Alternatively, you can use the cork from a wine bottle where the pieces of cork are about 1/4" thick, glued as above.

[TR 2100]

Alternatively, you can use the cork from a wine bottle where the pieces of cork are about 1/4" thick, glued as above.

 

Sounds like a good enough excuse to open a bottle!

 

AlanR

[Ian Vincent]

I'd go with the bits of wood - brilliant solution and you can use small raised head wood screws to fix it. I'd us hardwood though (not tropical) - more durable unless you have an offcut of pressure treated timber.

 

Rgds Ian