710 Filter ?

[McMuttley]

Is this my 710 filter?

 

 

if so, the one i bought from moss is half the length?

 

the mount says 'PUROLATOR'

 

What do i need to buy ?

 

yours oily

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

If you bought the oil filter for a standard 4 cyl TR2-4A from Moss Europe they should have sold you a boxed item with part number GFE104 on it.

 

If you have in your hand a filter that has part number GFE710 on it you need to buy a V8 Audi to go with it.

 

OR

 

That is the filter they suggest for a spin on conversion which you clearly do not have fitted.

Edited September 26, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[RogerH]

Hi Austin,

what did you actually buy from Moss - part number etc.

 

Your picture shows the original oil filter - not a spin type.

 

The original works very well but may drip the odd drop of oil. The spin-on could actually drip more depending on seals and quality.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

The spin on is at least a million times easier to change especially if you use the K&N wrenchable version.

Edited September 26, 2014 by peejay4A

[McMuttley]

I asked for a spin as something in the history file referred to one

 

I have :

 

Classic gold

Authentic Repro....

Part GFE166

 

?

 

So what should I ask for ?

 

Do they sell them at non- heritage specialists ?

 

Thanks all

Edited September 26, 2014 by McMuttley

[RogerH]

Hi Austin,

GFE104 would be the item.

This is the standard cartidge type filter. Works wells but is a fiddle to fit. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2061#

 

If you want the spin on unit then you need the adaptor to convert the top housing to accept the new filter.

 

Roger

[Steve R]

Austin

You're need a paper filter, 104 as stated, also fitted to Mini automatics, try a local motor factors they should stock them. It,s easy enough to change, make sure you remove the old rubber gasket that sits in a recess on the purlator body.

Steve

[McMuttley]

Do i need a new rubber gasket ?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

There will be one with the GFE104. I have just looked in my spare and it has one. Renew it on your car. Dig out the old one with a scriber.

Peter W

Edited September 27, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[McMuttley]

My engine number is

 

TSA 434 FRE

 

so this is presumably a later factory rebuild replacement

 

If i buy a spin on converter, i assume part TT10861

[RogerH]

That looks about right. Before you fit it establish the make of the top housing - Purolator or Tecalemite - adaptors in the box.

 

Do not over tighten the filter when fitting

 

Roger

[McMuttley]

Hi Rog, its a purolator and from what i can tell, free flow rather than bypass type - looks like a trip round the M25 to West London !

[peejay4A]

You won't regret it. I know I said its a million times easier but really it's a billion time easier to change. Get the K&N filter too.

[Rodbr]

Hi Austin,

At the risk of stating the obvious if it ain't broke don't fix it. Change the filter GFE104 and get two or three as spares. Easy although can be a bit messy. You could open a can of worms for yourself if you go for the spin off filter. These have been noted as being problematic in the past. IMHO this is better all round, one bolt and a simple assembly to clean and refit.

[peejay4A]

My snorkel fixing bracket stopped the old canister from dropping away and the long fine thread on the bolt made it seem to take ages to undo during which time oil goes everywhere. Maybe the TR3 has more room to work. What problems does the spin on create out of interest?

Edited September 27, 2014 by peejay4A

[Rodbr]

Have heard of issues with crimping of the canister to the flange that cause a significant leak when they fail and they can do it suddenly. I do not say this is a regular occurrence and it may have been a while back. I personally feel that I like the original better, but that is a personal preference.

I accept that I may drip a bit oil but I tend to remove the whole unit and ultrasonic clean it as a whole. I can see before refitting that I have got a seal and also pre-fill with oil. Not everyone's answer but works for me and no more than drip or two. I admit that the banjo seal is a pain and have to lap the copper washers but ho hum.

In Austin's case I think it would be easier for him.

[RobH]

I agree with Pete - I fitted a Moss spin-on conversion four years ago and don't regret it. As the fitting in the TR is almost horizontal in a fairly cluttered area its all but impossible to stop big oil loss when unscrewing the original type, and how do you keep the pre-filled oil in Rod as you tilt it to meet the filter head ? Spin-on filters have been pretty universal and reliable for decades and I haven't heard of any failures with ones of reputable manufacture.

 

Rob

[Rodbr]

HI Rob,

I have probably an even more cluttered area as my car is LHD. If you had read my posting fully would have noted that I said I removed the whole unit. Therefore the filter bowl and head are as a unit and the filter has oil in it prior to start up. I am delighted for you that you are happy and have been for four years but that still allows Austin to have all the options so HE can make an informed decision. There isn't a right way or wrong way and it must be a matter for individual choice. I am not sure what point you are trying to make!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or perhaps you are making some sort of inference to my statements which again if you read my post are personal choice. I have been building engines for neigh on 40 years but what do I know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My reasons:

Oil Filters and the components thereof are churned out as a mass production item and increasingly from overseas. Bad threads, seals, and cost reduced canister walls all serve to potentially cause the occasional bad one or 12 dozen to fail. The components are sometimes sourced from various manufacturers and so there is further risk in Quality Control at each stage in the process.

The worst that can happen with the original type is a leak from the top seal or a duff filter element. Compare that with a hole, or failed crimped joint and you have lost the oil in a matter of seconds. Even after 50 plus years my original canister still has the same armour plate type thickness. The spin on type can also sometimes be a total pig to remove in my experience and can easily be butchered by the uninitiated.

Edited September 27, 2014 by Rodbr

[RogerH]

Some fierce defending of both types of filter.

 

The original worked OK, a minimum of critical parts and perhaps the odd leak or stain.

 

The newer spin on filter is also OK unless you bought one in the late 90's and found oil spewing out left right and centre. I ended up re-machining mine to work correctly.

Today's offerings are much better.

 

As for replacing the filter the spin on couldn't be much easier. A small strap spanner and bobs your dads' brother.

 

use whatever you are comfortable with.

 

Roger

[lynchpin]

Hi

I have left the original on my 4 and on servicing I remove the snorkel type breather first (one nut and bolt) which gives access to the filter, the paper cartridge is cheap and readily available from my local motor factor, although I must add that we service it on a ramp at a friends garage when its in for MOT.

 

Phil,,.

[Chris59]

M2P : I've replaced several oil filters on wet liners' TRs.

 

Yes, Spin on filters are far cleaner to replace (less oil on the garage floor !), but, yes, some have created huge problems, because they were leaking, sometimes internally (ie the oil was not really filtered...), mainly because of the thickness of the sort of o'rings they use.

 

I think I have 2 or 3 of these faulty adaptators lying somewhere in my garages.

 

If you find a good one, it's not worth buying it if you don't use a good quality cartridge.

 

Finally, so many TRs work well since decades with their orignal filtration system, it can't be that bad.

[McMuttley]

Gents, i love you all ! Where would one get such quick, constructing and ranging opinions.

 

For now, i have bought a paper filter and spin on conversion (remember a few months ago at Roger's recommendation i was hitting my 710 filter quite hard thinking it was a starter motor!)

 

As i have no ramp/pit and barely the width to open the car door and as there is a very nice local garage in the street next door, i am going to rent their pit (and man) for a day, do all this crappy stuff in a more workable environment - and also my pesky subaru exhaust (60mm pipes ! Anyone)

 

The good thing was that I had a 100 mile blast round the Motorway25, nudging BMW's out of the way :-)

 

Olde Smokey ran strong, but notably over 80mph I sense a slight burning oil smell?

 

As a bonus, the guy at Moss took me for a walk around the warehouse - talk about Aladins cave of goodies. I did think about getting locked in and seeing how much of a Spitfire I could assemble by Monday morning

[hpremote]

Austin:

I used the old system of canister plus paper filter insert for 25 yrs. and then around the yr. 2000 converted to the spin-on type using the adaptor, bought from Geoff Mansfield's Northern TR Centre.

No comparison; after what used to be a sweaty, laborious job taking time and often involving unwanted oil spillage, the spin-on cartridge is a revelation - swiftly and cleanly undone, shorter in length, so that it can be pre-filled and easily refitted. My adaptor has always been leak-free. Only wish that I could say the same of the rest of the engine, gearbox, diff, etc...

My recommendation would be: do the conversion!

Tim.

[stillp]

Changing the oil and filter is one of the few jobs I'll pay someone else to do; there's no satisfaction in doing it, not much skill involved, and it's a faff unless you have a hoist or pit available. as well as a pain disposing of the old oil and filter.

Tyre/exhaust fitting companies often do fixed price oil changes, depending on engine capacity. It's great fun watching as the spring pushes the filter bowl off and a pint of hot dirty oil goes up the fitter's arm, and also, when they put 3 litres of oil in and it still doesn't reach the dipstick, watching as they look underneath to check if there's a leak. Modern 2-litre engines have about half the sump capacity of a 4-pot TR.

With a spin-on conversion it wouldn't be half as good a spectator sport.

[McMuttley]

:-)