sidescreen perspex

[John Morrison]

Anyone have, or know where I can get the perspex sliding window in a sidecsreen?

 

John.

[Rodbr]

Hi John,

listed in the Moss catelogue

508177 £28.34 SLIDING WINDOW, RH
508176 £28.34 SLIDING WINDOW, LH

[Fireman049]

For what it's worth ~

 

I'm going to be recovering my sidescreens and will try to fit rigid Perspex to the fixed front sections instead of

the thin vybak ~ fingers crossed.

I got the 2mm Perspex sections from a bathroom showroom and they very kindly cut them to shape.

 

Tom.

Edited September 25, 2014 by Fireman049

[AlanT]

I have a feeling that Lexan would be tougher than Perspex which is a bit liable to cracks.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3MM-LEXAN-POLYCARBONATE-SHEET-SIZE-800MM-X-400MM-/360489529206?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item53eed9af76

[billg]

Hi I fitted twin 4 mm alloy U section inside my TR3A sidescreen frames and used 4 mm Margard , as used by the Morgan factory.

 

I chamfered the edges so the it would slide in the channels. At speed you will find that the 2mm section rattles and gets sucked outwards and bows, hence I think why the factory used Vybak sewn in at the from of the Sidescreens.

 

However twin sliding panels are better for adjusting ventilation with my Hardtop on , or ghe hood up, especially with the Margard which is crystal clear and more scratch resistant than Lexan( polycarbonate) or Perspex .

 

Recovering the frames with new cloth is quite tricky though.

 

Regards

 

Bill G@ NB

[stuart]

Ken Munford used to be a good source for the sliding sections.

Stuart.

Edited September 26, 2014 by stuart

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Anyone have, or know where I can get the perspex sliding window in a sidecsreen?

 

John.

Dzus or Wedge sidescreens? The rear lower corner of the sliding bit changed shape.

[mleadbeater]

John

 

don't use Perspex, too prone to cracking, find a local plastic supplier and buy polycarbonate sheet, Lexan or Makrolon, or similar, this is tough stuff and won't crack, you can cold fold it up to about 3 mm thickness, and if you warm it up to around 140c it can be formed to form the pull handles.

 

Just bought a 3ft x 2 ft x 3mm piece for my sidescreens, around £17 inc vat, from York DIY Plastics.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

[Fireman049]

Hi BillG ~

 

Where did you get the alloy U section from?

 

Tom.

[Ian Vincent]

Hi BillG ~

Where did you get the alloy U section from?

Tom.

Moss sell them.

 

Rgds Ian

[billg]

Hi folks

 

I bought my alloy sections from B&Q on a Wednesday and got my10% pensioner discount!

 

Had to visit two stores to get enough! I put twin channels round all of the frame , except for the leading edge which took a bit of designing to minimise draughts.

 

The two 4mm u channels fitted neatly inside the Steel TR3 A frame and cleverly also held the hooding material which I folded into the frame.

 

I cut up self adhesive Velcro strip and stuck that into the bottom of the alloy channels so that the plastic windows slid smoothly and would not rattle.

 

Trickiest job on the whole car rebuild! But got a perfect fit for my hardtop and hood.

Regards

 

Bill G@ NB

[Lebro]

I would also recommend the use of polycarbonate sheet, certainly for the front section, & probably for the rear also.

 

Bob.

[John Morrison]

OK Thanks guys,

 

next question,

if I just buy the ready made Moss ones are they a simple fit?

 

 

John.

[Fireman049]

Hi John ~

 

I think your PM box is full as I've been unable to contact you.

If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you a copy of Skinner's sidescreen recovering instructions.

 

Tom.

[Don H.]

The Roadster Factory rebuilt my sliding-window sidescreens a year or so ago and did a fine job. They use polycarbonate (Makrolon brand) for the thin fixed section, and I believe acrylic (with facsimile "PERSPEX" imprint) for the sliding sections.

http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/side_curtain_flyer.htm

 

TRF sells the parts for DIY folks, too.

http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials6.16/13.php

 

 

 

[John Morrison]

Many thanks Tom

 

Pm Box sorted and my email in there;-

 

 

 

John.

Edited October 1, 2014 by john

[AlanT]

Perspex is WW2 polymer technology. Prone to cracking around drilled holes. Colours yellow with UV exposure.

 

Works best if fairly thick. 0.24in or more.

[Don H.]

Perspex is WW2 polymer technology. Prone to cracking around drilled holes. Colours yellow with UV exposure.

 

Works best if fairly thick. 0.24in or more.

 

Acrylic polymers predate WW2, in fact, but they're still highly commercially relevant. Perspex is a tradename for polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA). This is an inherently UV-stable, water-resistant polymer -- with considerably better environmental exposure durability than polycarbonate, although PC has higher impact strength. PMMA is one of the best polymers for resisting UV yellowing and degradation.

 

PMMA is available in injection molding grades for various parts, and these grades have lower molecular weight and strength as they're optimized for melt flow. PMMA is available in cast sheets and can be biaxially oriented for additional clarity and strength. Cast grades are stronger

 

If you're seeing cracked and yellowed PMMA, I'd question (1) is it really acrylic -- and not unsaturated polyester or some other resin, and (2) was it made by one of the top companies, like ICI/Perspex, DuPont/Lucite, (both now under Lucite International), Rohm & Haas/Plexiglas, or others?