Radiator Header Tank

[PeteT]

Hi sage ones,

 

Once again the radiator header tank has split where it joins the rad top. I had this repaired about 4k miles ago (about two years) and am now wondering if there's a better solution out there. I've seen adds for aluminium ones, does anyone have any experience of them with regards to this problem rather than any additional cooling? I converted to a remote header tank (courtesy of TR Enterprises) and I'm guessing it's the added weight of water in it now it's full, that's stressing the joint. That's not a problem I considered when I fitted it of course but there you have it. All suggestions greatly received.

 

Regards, Pete

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Not added weight of water causing the stress. My own TR has run a remote header since 1980.

 

Perhaps solder some braces t the joint - but that will mean radiator out.

 

Aluminium rads are spoken of in awe and hate -

 

Get yours re-cored and rebuilt professionally perhaps.

Do you have a starting handle hole? do you want one? that adds cost to the rad rebuild if it is done properly with a wet box around the hole rather than cutting and blanking a strip the of cooling tubes above/below the hole.

 

Cheers

Peter W

[RogerH]

Hi Pete,

where abouts is the split.

Does it relate to the thermostat housing pipe.

Is this pipe under stress.

Is the rad sitting higher than before the splitting. As you now have a header tank it can do.

 

Ali rads do not have better cooling.

Ali rads are not stronger than copper rads. Due to the larger area that the solder covers it forms a strong joint.

 

Is the tube on the rad that excepts the thermohousing pipe pointing in the right angle/direction.

 

Roger

[PeteT]

Hi Roger,

 

The split is towards the bottom corners where the rectangular header meets the rad. It's weeping now but can only get worse. I had the radiator re-cored (without the hole) several years ago and then it split in this same area a couple of thousand miles after that. Now it's gone again. I know you know your metals so I guess there's no advantage to be had in an aluminium welded seam over a soldered one? There's nothing pressing or rubbing on it so if it's not the additional weight of the water I guess I have to suspect the quality of the previous work? Many thanks for your replies.

 

Regards, Pete

[stuart]

A couple of triangular fillets soldered in would help also better quality soldering.

FWIW The usual culprit for these cracks is mostly the owner leaning on the top when checking anything under the bonnet.

Stuart.

[ianc]

Drain sufficient coolant to render the area completely dry, clean the metal thoroughly with a wire brush, then apply JB Weld and give it 24-36 hours to cure.

It might do the trick.

Ian Cornish

[PeteT]

Thanks Ian,

 

I've used JB weld before on my old landrover so I know it's good but I'm preparing the TR2 (TS2016) for a trip to Monte Carlo so I really need to squeeze out as many possible reliability issues as possible. I think the consensus seems to be the quality of the previous repair so I'm going to fetch it off on Monday and take it to the company who re cored it a few years ago. Hopefully that will sort it. I might ask them to put a couple of braces in while their at it though.

 

Regards Pete

[Don Elliott]

Pete - Have them pressure test it with compressed air to be certain where it's leaking. On my 1958 TR3A, after trying with solder and JB Weld where you say yours is leaking, a radiator shop fount out it was the long bottom seam of the extension header box between the filler cap and the radiator proper. It was leaking and leaving a residue that was gummy and visible down the fins. After they soldered it along this hidden bottom seam, it no longer leaked.

[PeteT]

Thanks Don, I will have it pressure tested before and after the repair, though it was fine after the last repair. Hopefully this time it will work.

 

Regards, Pete