Dave Larnder Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi Guys I have lost overdrive in all three gears, just before a 1000 km. run too. 1) I have recently changed the oil to SAE 30 so I know it is not a lack of oil, 2) The solenoid works perfectly in my garage, but can it drop out on the road? 3) The actuating lever lines up with the 3/16¨pin through the hole into the casting when the solenoid is actuated. 4) the inhibitor switch on 3rd and 4th was moved in by 20 thou when I changed the packers. 5) Any suggestions for further tries to get it to work. The only thing I can think of is the relay. How can I test that this is working properly using my multi meter as this is the last try before it is gearbox out and send to Overdrive services in U.K. or do you think Pete Cox is a better bet? if so, how do I get hold of him. thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Did it work before with SAE 30 or is this a departure ? Try it with EP80/90. Has it run at all since the oil change? It might be taking a long time for the oil to work through to the overdrive pump. Run it for a bit then re-check the oil. If the solenoid is working then the relay & inhibitor switches must also be working. Have you tried it with the engine running? Jack up the rear wheels then see if the solenoid works running in gear. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Dave, Before swapping the oil again as suggested above try on stands or out on the road, leave the tunnel cover off and operate the actuation lever by hand in all positions even past the hole in case it's moved out off adjustment. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 I suspect the operating valve. This can be checked without removing the gbox. It may be the lever position. Sometimes on a worn unit you must go a bit past the 3/16in pin position. Or the ball don't seat properly. I presume you have the "Buckeye" articles to read. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 To get mine to work i had to undo the clamp on the opposite side to the 'lever' and 'tune' the position with the the car on jack stands with a bit of handbrake on. The hole in the lever is a bit above the hole/recess on the box. Has worked perfectly ever since. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter.goreham Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi, +1 for the adjusting the lever position. I think that the 'holes aligned' position is only a starting point nowadays. Certainly mine won't engage with 'holes aligned' but works happily at about 1.5mm past. If you slacken the clamp and move the lever by hand you can actually feel the point at which the operating valve tube starts to pick up the ball. So, the adjusted position needs to be just after this point. I think it was AlanT who suggested adjusting the position by using a dial gauge or similar resting on the ball from the top of the valve. Sounds like a good idea, but how much lift? If this doesn't work I'd certainly try a few more things before pulling the box out ie reseating the operating valve and an oil pressure check. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Dave, Before swapping the oil again as suggested above try on stands or out on the road, leave the tunnel cover off and operate the actuation lever by hand in all positions even past the hole in case it's moved out off adjustment. Mick Richards Mick Yes! that was suggested by Overdrive repair services. I will try it after exhausting all possibilities befor removing the tunnel and before removing the GB/O.D from the car for sending to repairers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 I suspect the operating valve. This can be checked without removing the gbox. It may be the lever position. Sometimes on a worn unit you must go a bit past the 3/16in pin position. Or the ball don't seat properly. I presume you have the "Buckeye" articles to read. Alan NO! where do I get these please. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 To get mine to work i had to undo the clamp on the opposite side to the 'lever' and 'tune' the position with the the car on jack stands with a bit of handbrake on. The hole in the lever is a bit above the hole/recess on the box. Has worked perfectly ever since. L.J. I will try that. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi, +1 for the adjusting the lever position. I think that the 'holes aligned' position is only a starting point nowadays. Certainly mine won't engage with 'holes aligned' but works happily at about 1.5mm past. If you slacken the clamp and move the lever by hand you can actually feel the point at which the operating valve tube starts to pick up the ball. So, the adjusted position needs to be just after this point. I think it was AlanT who suggested adjusting the position by using a dial gauge or similar resting on the ball from the top of the valve. Sounds like a good idea, but how much lift? If this doesn't work I'd certainly try a few more things before pulling the box out ie reseating the operating valve and an oil pressure check. Peter Peter That sounds good. If and when I take the tunnel off then I will trythe gauge idea. Overdrive Repair Services say they can sell me a gauge for testing the oil pressure above 400 p.s.i. so that is an option too. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Did it work before with SAE 30 or is this a departure ? Try it with EP80/90. Has it run at all since the oil change? It might be taking a long time for the oil to work through to the overdrive pump. Run it for a bit then re-check the oil. If the solenoid is working then the relay & inhibitor switches must also be working. Have you tried it with the engine running? Jack up the rear wheels then see if the solenoid works running in gear. Jerry Jerry Just read yours again and will try them first. I had EP90 in and changed it for SAE 30 on advice from others. DAve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Everybody with an OD should read all five articles from: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD1/AOD1.htm From memory the valve lift is 17 thou. This is probably in Buckeye. I used a depth mic but an indicator would do. You can get indicators for as little as £5 on ebay these days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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