MarkBrash Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 When I stripped down the front suspension on my 65 4A and removed the wishbone brackets for what felt like the first time in 49 years I thought that must be the hardest job I'll face. Then I got to remove the trailing arms from the rear and decided that was even worse and nothing could top it, then I rebushed the rear and .... please someone tell me it will get better soon. But on a serious note I wanted to check which way the rear Trailing Arm bolts should go in. I think the original orientation was to have both the bolt heads point towards the diff, this is how mine was and it makes it impossible to remove the arm without removing the inner bracket. I think I've seen others fitted so the bolt heads face toward each other and that would enable removal of the arm without the brackets. What is generally perceived as the better option ? I would assume that in the event both nuts fell off then in the stock approach at least one bolt would stay in, but in reality could a bolt actually work its way out ? Grateful for any advice as I never want to remove those brackets again as they appear to have been designed so only the smallest of tools car be used to remove them. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Hi Mark, As far as I'm aware the bolt heads should face each other (nuts on outside of brackets). I built my rear susp. this way and can remove the TS's without cursing. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thats too logical, Tony, the factory had the bolt heads pointing to the diff as Mark observed. At least thats my experience. I can't see that it makes any difference, so do as Tony has done and make the trailing arms easier to remove. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 I don't know how my 4A left the factory but when the trailing arms were transferred to a replacement chassis the mounting bolts were fitted with their heads facing inwards towards each other, simply to make future removal/camber adjustment easier. The illustration on page76 of the Moss catalogue, which I assume is taken from the original parts manual, shows only the inner mounting bolt and the threaded end is shown facing the diff. On p135 of Roger Williams's excellent "How to restore Triumph TR4 & TR4A" he points out the desirability of fitting the bolts with heads facing towards each other. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkBrash Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Thanks everyone, bolt heads pointing in it is then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Just a reminder that these brackets are prone to fatigue failure. You should examine them carefully and maybe consider replace/reinforce. Recent topic on here about them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 ah, that would be me then. Hi Mark, whatever way round you fit the pivot bolts try and ensure that the brackets ithemselves can have the top and bottom edges inspectable. They are prone to cracking vertically through the two bolt holes. Mind you, sometimes it takes a bollard island to assist in the cracking. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Hi Mark The reason for the bolt orientation was that the trailing arms were assembled onto the chassis with the brackets already bolted on, with the correct geometry set up. They were then just bolted anspd shimmed up prior to the driveshafts being added. The factory didn't therefore have the bolt orientation issue as it easy to deal with off the chassis. The alternative bolt orientation is the way to sort it and it makes no odds. All I would add is to peen a mark on the head / bracket so that you can see them move, and keep the brackets free of road detritus so that you can inspect them. Bolt pull through at the outriggers is also a problem, so use 1 inch washers cut to size it a rectangular plate to spread the load on the inside face of the chassis. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Thanks for the heads up Alan/Roger. Having seen your posts I was straight down the inspection pit to check my brackets. I cleaned them up carefully and can report no sign of any cracks, albeit I cannot readily see the tops. I thought my replacement CTM chassis would have had the critical reinforcing and stiffening spacers in the mounting outrigger Tony. I checked and all eight bolts were really tight, I could hardly get movement on any of them, there was no evidence of the outrigger being compressed. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Hi Tim Colin's chassis are good and if you have a new one it may well not be a problem at all - those that I have seen pulled through have been on OE IRS chassis which must be at least 50 years old now - and the outrigger is a well known and usual rust spot. Happy days then. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Tim I know of two that have done the same from CTM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Hello, see attached photo, CTM chassis about 7 years old, for whatever reason the PO did not fit plates to spread the load on the front of the outriggers, and I have other photos which if you inspect closely the metal is good with no rust, the chassis also has the 'tubes' inside to stop the chassis collapsing, be warned!! Cheers, Andrew Edited September 19, 2014 by AndrewMAshton Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Hi I rest my case I'm afraid. Done it, broke it, plated it and welded it up personally, so in my experience it's worth doing as this is a high stress point on the chassis and if you kerb a rear wheel hard, there is a good chance that this going to happen. regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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