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Time to tackle the dashboard. After reading the how-to restore book trim section I was expecting to see how the factory wrapped the vinyl around the dash, where they cut it at the corners etc but it seems that is not how the factory did it. My dashboard has the vinyl trimmed flush at the edges of the holes and around the edge of the dashboard.

 

Are we doing this wrapping and gluing thing only because we cant reproduce the technique that the factory used, different vinyl, different glue ?

 

Pictures here:

 

http://s38.photobucket.com/user/foster461/library/TR3A%20restoration%20project/1%20Sept%202014%20-%20Dashboard

 

 

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Same with my dash at the time. I think it has to do with different aspects:

  • modern materials are often thicker (like real leather)
  • at that time, the glue was more effective (but also more lethal...)
  • I presume that the manufacturer had molds - added with a lot of force / pressure it was possible to achieve what you and I found when we dismantled the dash.

 

 

To give you and idea: most refurbished dashboard are recognisable at the lower end of the dash where the semi-circle is cut out for the steering column: the old (= thinner) material was folded backwards without folds. With the modern day & thicker materials, this cannot be done without folds. Hence the separate piece that's stitched to the other material.

 

Have a look here: above the steering column, you can clearly see white stitching following the contour of the semi circle. Original dashboards don't have the stitching.

 

4610189963_fe5f16314f_z.jpg

 

Oh, and don't forget to paint the back of the dash white! It makes fiddling behind the dash with a magnalite in your mouth a lot easier: the white will reflect the light and you can see a lot more when you're on your back staring up!

 

Menno

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This is how I did mine:

 

 

 

The Dash was the 1st thing I tackled, It went surprisingly well. I had much more trouble with the capping above the dash, & the cappings behind the doors.

 

Bob.

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Menno,

 

I don't agree with your comment about the stitching, I have a collection of photos from an original TR2 that was totally unrestored and it had the stitching around the steering column cut out.

 

Rgds Ian

 

Perhaps the factory had different techniques for vinyl vs leather. The vinyl on my dash fits so well it looks like it could have been sprayed on. The thicker leather may have required a different approach as does the thicker modern vinyl.

 

Stan

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Modern high temperature upholstery glue is incredibly effective and available from www.woolies-trim.co.uk in 1/2 litre tins. Don't use crappy aerosols, they don't work.

 

The original vinyl as on my TR3A was completely inflexible, didn't stretch and had the stitched bit around the steering column. Triumph had done an a amazing job, but it was torn and had unwanted holes through, so I bought half a hide of 1.7mm Brooklands, grained black hide from The Real Hide Company and we used that without the stitching round the steering column. My son helped me with the door cappings and the aluminium bit round the back and I think it looks good. He did all the interior panels for doors etc too using the same hide and marine ply. Leather does stretch and heating with a hot air gun will shrink it if you're careful.

 

14344668552_3c9937e39c_b.jpg

 

John Skinners seats were the really difficult bit, not easy at all.

Edited by Ashley James
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The covering I took off my dash was definately original to the car, it was vinyl, & had stitching around the the column cutout.

Only noticable difference between old, & new was the extra softness, & "stretchability" of the new.

I used Evostick for all my trimming - spray on for large areas, & from a tub for the high strength parts, ie. edges,

& all those places where you fold the edge over, & glue to the back surface.

 

As I understand it Evostick changed it's formular a while ago to be water based, but so many people complained that it was no good any more

the have gone back to the old formular - or, at least a formular which does now work.

 

Bob.

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This is how I did mine

 

The Dash was the 1st thing I tackled, It went surprisingly well. I had much more trouble with the capping above the dash, & the cappings behind the doors.

 

Bob.

 

Bob, it looks like you trimmed the material flush with the edge of the top of the dash and around the speedo, tach and smaller holes and wrapped along the bottom edge and the two large openings. Is that an accurate observation ?

 

Stan

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Stan,

Something worth doing at this stage before starting the cover the dash is getting the shape of the cubby box so that it will fit once you fit the dash. You need to wet it thoroughly so it is pliable, fit it and allow to dry a little before removing and setting (in shape) to dry naturally. I seem to remember that very early cars had an alloy strip band round the opening to keep it in shape.

 

Also worth painting the back of the dash with white paint, really helps provide lighter sight for various connections.

 

rgds

Rod

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Stan,

Something worth doing at this stage before starting the cover the dash is getting the shape of the cubby box so that it will fit once you fit the dash. You need to wet it thoroughly so it is pliable, fit it and allow to dry a little before removing and setting (in shape) to dry naturally. I seem to remember that very early cars had an alloy strip band round the opening to keep it in shape.

 

Also worth painting the back of the dash with white paint, really helps provide lighter sight for various connections.

 

rgds

Rod

 

Good idea re the glove box Rod, I see Bob has his sitting in place on his dash. I have a new glove box but it is badly distorted so I'll get that sorted out now.

 

Re the vinyl, I dug my new midnight blue vinyl out of the packaging, John Skinner kit I believe, supplied by TRF. The dash pieces are just three flat pieces of vinyl (dash, door and instrument panel for the early cars). The dash section has no special provision for the steering column so I guess I will be nipping and tucking around that arch.

 

The new vinyl is much thicker than what came off.

 

Stan

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I totally agree with Rod re the cubby box. I didn't try to fit mine until the dash panel was in the vehicle and wired with all the instruments etc. It was an absolute pig to fit. and remember, you need to remove the cubby box to tighten / remove / adjust the bonnet (hood) hinges.

 

Rgds Ian

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After 'molding' the cubby box, don't be tempted to install it. Just set it aside. Installing the box at a later stage will give you space to fiddle with the dials and wiring behind the dash.

Do check the bolts you'll have to use for the handlebar: the lid of the box is very close to the underside of the handlebar; some boltheads are too high, making it very difficult to open the lid - and damaging the newly installed leather...

 

Menno

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Good idea re the glove box Rod, I see Bob has his sitting in place on his dash. I have a new glove box but it is badly distorted so I'll get that sorted out now.

 

Re the vinyl, I dug my new midnight blue vinyl out of the packaging, John Skinner kit I believe, supplied by TRF. The dash pieces are just three flat pieces of vinyl (dash, door and instrument panel for the early cars). The dash section has no special provision for the steering column so I guess I will be nipping and tucking around that arch.

 

The new vinyl is much thicker than what came off.

 

Stan

The lack of the cut out sewn in section for the column is a serious omission as unless there is a lot of stretch in the vinyl you will struggle to get the covering to sit correctly. Mind I think the quality of those kits has gone downhill lately.

Stuart.

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After 'molding' the cubby box, don't be tempted to install it. Just set it aside. Installing the box at a later stage will give you space to fiddle with the dials and wiring behind the dash.

Do check the bolts you'll have to use for the handlebar: the lid of the box is very close to the underside of the handlebar; some boltheads are too high, making it very difficult to open the lid - and damaging the newly installed leather...

 

Menno

The screws for the grab handle should be countersunk and sit well above the glove box lid opening arc.

Stuart.

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Hi Stan,

A way round the column section is as follows: Cut triangle section and glue the tabs round the insets. Then take a 3 inch material strip and glue this carefully round a piece of string from a garden strimmer as fine as you can get. Then then should have something like a piece of trim or seat piping. glue this into the column cut out. You should then end up with a visual effect similar to the stitched filler piece.

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Stan.

 

Yes your observations are correct. Although the restoration book I was following stated "wrap the vinyl through the instrument holes, & tack behind the panel, there simply would not have room for the instruments to fit through the holes. Also, the edges of these holes, & the top edge are all covered over by something else when fitted, ie. the instruments bezels, & the top capping. Having said that, the vinyl did not shrink back from the holes, & top edge anyway.

 

Bob.

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Stan.

 

Yes your observations are correct. Although the restoration book I was following stated "wrap the vinyl through the instrument holes, & tack behind the panel, there simply would not have room for the instruments to fit through the holes. Also, the edges of these holes, & the top edge are all covered over by something else when fitted, ie. the instruments bezels, & the top capping. Having said that, the vinyl did not shrink back from the holes, & top edge anyway.

 

Bob.

 

Makes sense Bob, agree on all points.

 

Rod, I followed most of your description of trimming the steering column arch except for how that triangular piece fits into the opening. How are your artistic skills, perhaps you could sketch it ?

 

Stan

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Makes sense Bob, agree on all points.

 

Rod, I followed most of your description of trimming the steering column arch except for how that triangular piece fits into the opening. How are your artistic skills, perhaps you could sketch it ?

 

Stan

Stan,

 

For what it's worth, I just hand stitched a piece in, it's not difficult. The piece you stitch in is rectangular, if it helped you could glue it first.

 

Rgds Ian

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This topic was spot on. I just finished my TR2 dash.

 

It certainly was a h*ll of a job.. took me in total 15 hours (including waiting time to let the adhesive dry before marriage).

 

Love the hair blower. it made quite a difference in the way the material could be stretched around corners.

 

I let most of the covering for the steering column hole in place but stretched it so the stitchline follows the edges.

 

IMG_4372.JPG

 

 

IMG_4374.JPG

 

IMG_4378.JPG

Edited by EdwinTiben
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