riverstar Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 I have been replacing all my bushes on my TR4A with SuperPro which so far has made a big improvement to the drive and handling but still have to fit the bushes on the steering rack and have been reading the procedure on my Hayne's manual. I am just wondering if before I start if anyone has any advice which may save me any problems and head scratching. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Make sure the plates underneath are touching the brackets and that the cups on top are not more than specified distance from their brackets. Only tighten the bolts to the specified torque and you may need to wedge aforementioned cups to get them close enough first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 My favourite option is to fit a sold mount on the passenger side and a rubber or poly one at the drivers. This maintains the positive rack location of the solid mount and provides some compliance and noise/shock insulation. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 take the opportunity to replace the belt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 And make sure the pinion is lined up with the steering column before clamping up - you want the lower universal joint as straight as possible. Many of us substitute the lower rubber coupling for a pressed steel TR6 one which is both easier to fit and clamp tight. However, if you do this swap be sure to get the correct steel coupling as there have been quality issues quite recently with these. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Dont lose the anti rattle button as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Dont lose the anti rattle button as well. Stuart. :wacko: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 :wacko: Some of the repros dont have them fitted. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 I recently completely overhauled the rack on my 4A. I took the opportunity of fitting solid alloy mounts and a TR6 type lower U.J.,the latter I sourced from www.rallydesign.co.uk at £26.16.incl VAT and carriage. This is a really solid forged item, part no. RD820F, I reasoned that the Group 4 rally types would go for something tough of good quality. I have noticed no harshness penalty from the solid mounts over small road surface irregularities; I have retained the original flexible upper coupling which is providing sufficient compliance. The steering is noticeably more positive, with no lost motion at the wheel rim and the familiar vagueness around the straight ahead position has gone. The car now holds a straight line with no need for continual small steering inputs as was the case. Highly recommended mods. I only wish I d fitted the U.J. and solid mounts 44 years ago!! Tim Hunt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Thanks for the advice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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