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Fitting wheel boxes


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Hello , this is first time I've used the forum. I have a 1972 TR6 and have taken out the old wheel boxes [bought a 450mm long screw driver from tool fix that helped]. The new plastic spacers/grommets that came from Rimmers didn't fit their new boxes so had to ream out the plastic..........snug fit now. The outside plastic part is supplied with new brass tubes and spray nozzles but neither fit the holes in the plastic moulding. How have others fitted these metal components into the plastic?

 

What's the best sealer to use where the plastic mates up to the body work?

 

Thanks,

 

James.

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Mine weren't from Rimmer but the metal parts just pushed/screwed into the rubber/plastic escutcheon. One thing to check before installing is that there is no blockage in the waterways. I didn't and a small sliver of rubber was blocking one of the jets and it's a whole bigger problem sorting that out when they're installed. I used a thin application of Indasa to seal mine.

Edited by peejay4A
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Good tip to check re blockage Pete, thanks. I think I'll have to tap in a thread in the hole for the brass tube.the existing holes just seem like pilot holes to me........I'll check with Rimmers first.

James.

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The components seem to be very hard plastic..........not rubber.........they don't soften with warmth either.The existing holes are so small that I can only assume they are meant as pilot holes. Although the brass tube has a taper thread on it the chromed 'nipple' that squirts the water has three 'rings' around the base so I guess that one should be a tight press fit. Off to get some Indasa this morning and I think I'll renew all the plastic piping that feeds the wash water from the washer bottle............I don't fancy getting access to this area of the car again soon!! I'm beginning to wonder if these black plastic parts are an example of a 'duff' replacement part? I'm hoping to take the car over to France in a couple of weeks on a Brittany Ferries tour of Brittany......we live near Plymouth.

 

James.

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Think the brass tubes thread acts like a self tapper screw so worth persevering with screwing into the black tube. Did mine recently and they did screw in eventually. New tubing is also good idea.

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Hi Alan..............yes it's the same as on your web link.

 

Robin , the trouble is the pilot holes in the plastic mouldings are so small I'll have to open a little to start with but then I'll follow your idea and use the brass tube as a self tapper. I'm off to start the job .........I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Cheers,

James

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Mine were from that eBay seller. Definitely hard rubber with enough give. Remember those slivers though :)

 

Belated welcome to the forum by the way.

Edited by peejay4A
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Thanks for all your comments/ support. Done the job now...............just got to put glove box back but had enough of laying on my back in awkward positions. I'll complete tomorrow.

 

I had to drill out the side of the mouldings with a 3/16'' bit and then just relieve the entrance with a 4.5mm bit to about 1/16'' depth........the spray nozzles then were a push fit [without distorting the moulding] using a vice . [i fitted the whole moulding over the stem of an old wheel box so as not to crush the moulding when tightening the vice]

 

I had to drill out the base of the moulding with a 4.5mm dia bit and then the little brass tubes did self tap and were very secure.

 

I was very careful [after Pete's advice] to ensure all plastic swarf was blown clear.

 

I used a small tube of a black silicon sealant to seal the mouldings to the body as no Indasa locally.........seems to have worked well.

 

There were times when tiny nuts needed to be started on a thread high up in awkward places.......I packed out the socket with tiny pieces of rag so the nut rested just at the rim of the socket........I was then able to elevate it into position at the end of a stack of 1/4'' drive socket extensions. A number of electrical connections had to be reconnected onto their spades on the drivers side as one has to remove quite a lot to have a clear work space.

 

I reconnected the live terminal on battery several times as I completed each section of the task [e.g.lining up cable tubes where they fit in wheel boxes before fully tightening the retaining nuts and again after fully tightening the wheel box retaining nuts below where the wipers attach] This was to ensure that the 'drive cable' from the wiper motor hadn't been 'pinched' in any way. It all sounds OK and all slack has gone from what were rather 'sloppy' wiper actions.

Thanks again,

James.

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