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Help! replacing window glass on to bottom runner


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Hi, I've finally gotten around to replacing the tr6 ns drop glass for the correct tr4(a) drop glass. Have the glass out and lined up the new glass and it is indeed a different profile along the bottom so now I need to get the glass off the runner.

 

How?

 

I've tried hammer and drift without sucess or breaking the glass. Did not want to break the glass as it is fine and could be a free gift to another member once freed. I have the new rubber, just need so advice on getting the old glass off the runner and the new glass back on.

 

Cheers

Mark

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I got mine off with a piece of hardwood as a drift and a big rubber mallet. Soak it in WD40 first. To fit the channel stand the glass up on a piece of thin rubber, place the channel and rubber strip in position - dry, then belt the channel with aforementioned mallet. As the glass is in compression it won't break. Well mine didn't. It needs a bit of faith but it will go. Good luck.

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I did it by laying the glass flat on a table while keeping he runner out of the surface of the table but parallel to the edge of the table. Then forcefully sliding the glass a couple of times until the runner hits the edge of the table. It should come off easily after a couple of hits with no risk of breaking the glass (clean the table first). A bit of WD40 between the glass and the rubber and between the rubber and the runner would surely help.

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Hi Mark,

much the same as above.

Lay glass flat on table with a towel between.

Using a plastic headed hammer (steel will do but is harder on the channel) slide the hammer across the glass to strike the channel a blow.

Soak in WD40 may help as suggested.

If you are lucky it will come away. If the PO used contact adhesive to hold it there you may have a problem - I did . Have a look at the rubber for signs of adhesive.

 

Putting it on is the reverse. TRy and get the glass in the correct position - apprx midway.

 

Don't forget you SAFETY GLASSES in case the glass breaks.

 

If the channel is rusty it may well simply collapse under all the bashing. Not sure if they are available as new spares.

 

Roger

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Hi all, thanks, managed to get glass out in one piece, (steel drift and hammer) po had used silicon sealer. But now the fun starts. Now I have the glass out I can see it is identical in profile to the new one not a tr6 as I suspected. Having stripped down the os to see what I was missing and it is clear the runner is about 3/4 of an inch longer and not seating on the glass prperly (may be able to cut it down) and the regulator arms have been bent, so clearly not from a tr4. So now I have the joy of soucing new/old parts. Bodges, rust and wear and tear are all present in equal parts.

 

will be looking through the catalogues from the usual suspects and will be posting another message asking if anybody has good used regulators, runners and guides for both doors, about the only things in the doors not in need of replacement are the doors themselves and the glass, all working parts not worth putting back together.

 

thanks to all.

 

Mark

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Mark,

 

The bottom channels on my TR4 were useless due to rust and I used those from a Spitfire 4, after shortening them and repositioning the rear "slot" along with 5mins gas welding. The section is exactly the same. Use the opposite door to get the positioning right.

Suggest you forget the rubber strip- I used a PU windscreen adhesive (a Vauxhall product) to partially fill the channel and pushed the glass into it. This method did also allow a small amount of rotational movement in order to adjust the dreaded windscreen frame/glass alignment. The glass is replaceable after a bit of careful work with a Stanley knife and a bit of whittling- I know 'cos I've done it.

Good luck- safety goggles/glasses recommended.

J.

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Yes, I think once I have the replacement parts I can start putting everything back together, will probably start off gently, should lay on my bench (with paper protection) and force against wooden backstop. Should be fine! I was wacking 7 colours of cr@p out of the channel on my front lawn with an old hexagonal oil pump drive as a drift (no idea where I got it but had it for over 30 years) to get the old one off in one piece.

 

Will update once all working again.

 

thanks to all for the advise.

 

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all just quick update. All back together again and thanks to Ray Gill (and Helen) who supplied 2 very good regulators and a matching pair of glass channels along with 4 felt side channels.

 

Side felt channels took a good mornings work to strip, cut and rivet all brackets back in the correct orientation. But satisfying, and with a coat of paint on the brackets look as good as new.

 

just have to put the outter trim back on, made one of the tools that I see they sell for £13ish on the moss etc sites from a length of 20mm ali strip (clearly I'm too cheap), but clearly there is an art to fitting the outter rubber seal, inner trim virtually fitted themselves. Outter needs another session when I can sit and persivere and not throw them over the neighbours fence in frustration :-)

 

Mark

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