CV Hubs

[AndrewMAshton]

Hello, second item I have bought from Classic Driving Developments, already fitted Alloy Front Hubs and much better bearings and stub axle, now fitted CV hubs, took 2 hours, bolted straight on, good job I kept my 1" 5/16" socket from my midget days, no connection other than a very satisfied customer, got rid of the clunk when I reversed and should have got rid of the worry of the wheel parting company with the hub, cheers, Andrew

[Jersey Royal]

Andrew,

 

Did you have any issues with fitting the hubs and stub axles etc?

 

I ask as I was wanting to fit the Moss version, which although more expensive they are NLS, as they are waiting tor a revised batch to arrive, whatever that means, they also have no idea of timescale.

 

Cheers

GUY

[Guest ntc]

Cv shafts ? not for me ta

[AndrewMAshton]

Hello Guy, no problem at all, just a case of removing the old stub axles and hubs as one and fitting the new ones, the only unexpected bit is you need to tighten the driveshaft nut to 215 ft lbs and you need a 1 and 5/16" socket, that size is 3/4" drive, fortunately it is the same size as the A series crankshaft pulley bolt, CDD are doing them for £850 plus £25 delivery. Cheers, Andrew

[mike3md]

That's a lot of money for a socket!

 

[Allan Westbury]

I thought that!!

I called on their stand in Harrogate and was impressed with the look of the CV hubs. They also had some splined joints that they recommend for the race cars that obviously take more hammer. Having already fitted Teflon coated splined drive shafts that I am very happy with I will stick with what I have but would like to ask the benefit of the alloy front hubs?

[AndrewMAshton]

Hello Ollie, two fold, reduced unsprung weight and I was having constant trouble with a long brake pedal, brake pedal now sorted and as I don't drive fast enough I haven't yet felt the benefit from the unsprung weight, but it's the thought that counts!!, cheers, Andrew

 

Hello Mike, it is as original Britool so won't have been cheap when I bought it 30 years ago, along with the Stahl Whillie 1/2" to 3/4" adapter, Cheers,

[Motorsport Mickey]

Neil,

 

What is your opinion of the CV shafts, is there something you've heard or know that makes you decide not to go CV ?

 

Mick Richards

[RogerH]

Hi Ollie,

to clarify Andrews reply, if I may.

The Ali hubs do nothing in general for normal touring performance. The benefit comes when you change or modify the stub axle.

 

The standard axles have been known to snap or flex a little. This can flexing can give, as Andrew states, pad knock back and a longer pedal travel.

 

Roger

[TRTOM2498PI]

I would be intereted in opinions of people who have tried and tested CV jointed drive shafts with uprated hubs on an IRS car.

 

I for one have not had a single issue in 20K miles of driving. (Track days / 10 country car events / Round Britain Reliability Runs - 2000 miles in 48hrs), and general hard driving.

 

 

Cheers.

[johnny250]

Hi Tom,

 

This has all been covered many times. I fitted the Moss (TR Nord) CV driveshafts some years ago and they also have been fine. The original shaft can and DO break, the CV gets rid of the UJ's and the sliding shafts.

 

john

[TRTOM2498PI]

Hi John,

 

My apologies, and to clarify.

 

I have the CV set up on my fast road TR6, and no issues. You are quite correct also, it has been discussed routinely on this forum.

 

 

Cheers.

[Guest ntc]

The biggest mot failure in modern cars, but yes they have moved on, but not on what you can buy for a Tr and yes I have seen two fail.

[graeme]

Interesting that Goodparts in the US, who I believe were the first to use the CV shaft, have now introduced a heavy duty UJ type drive shaft.

 

On my TR4A, I have used the heavy duty shaft with Racestoration hubs for 7 years now with no problems.

 

Another point to bear in mind, a UJ will give plenty of advanced warning of failure but a CV can fail with no warning, ie no drive!

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

[Guest ntc]

Graeme

Thank you

[Richard71]

Goodparts have been selling uprated U/V shafts for as long, if not longer than they've been selling the CV type kit. Gives the consumer the option of preference just like any of the other main suppliers.....Richard Good is a businessman as well as any of the other parts dealers.

 

I doubt that failed CV joints are the main cause of modern car MOT failures, the boot/gaiter maybe a frequent failure, but there are a great many more common causes of MOT failure. Tell me this, if the TR range were still in production today, would the still be fitted with UJs???

 

Richard.

[jean]

I'm a little puzzelt, CV hubs..CV drive shafts.. cv joints...do you speek about the same thing. to say homokinetic drive shafts ??

 

As far as I did read they have to be carefully fitted, not a plain sailling exercise as Neil Revington would say..

Our Finish TR6 friend, don't remember his forum name has put very comprehensive fitting instructions on his website and according to him it's not just a bolt on exercise

if you don't want them to be shattered in a short time.... Without splines the up and down movement of the rear wheels must be limited to a certain extend

[Lebro]

I think the CV joint includes a sliding splined shaft ?

 

Bob.

[Bill Bourne]

Just my experience

 

I have had them fitted for approx 6 years - done around 20,000 + miles - no issues at all - fit and forget. Expensive - but easy to fit - take out the whole existing drive shaft assemblies with hubs - insert the new - But torque up the large hub nuts properly - from memory 200 lbs is the recommended setting. I took the view, that if you want to replace your hubs ( as I needed to do) then you are faced with re-conditioned units and you just don't know if they have cracked the casings when re-conditioning. If they fail, not a nice result. So new CV drives gave me piece of mind, well at least a better piece of mind than using re-conditioned units. + a bonus, no more UJ's..

 

best Bill

[Tony Millward]

I think the CV joint includes a sliding splined shaft ?

 

Bob.

 

That's partly correct Bob, the CV joint can move in and out on it's ball bearings but there are no splines as far as I'm aware. The in/out movement on my CV joints is comparable to the original spline shafts.

 

Tony

Edited August 27, 2014 by Tony Millward

[jean]

Yes Tony, exactly what I have seen. The movement on the ball joints is limited. Maybe no problem with lever shock absorbers which restrict the travel by a lower bump stop, but I got Koni's on my car and they have a longer travel .

This does not cause any problems with the standard splined shafts, but in case of CV's I will probably have to add a lower bump stop, or restrict the spring travel by steel hoops.

[Andy Moltu]

Hi Ollie,

to clarify Andrews reply, if I may.

The Ali hubs do nothing in general for normal touring performance. The benefit comes when you change or modify the stub axle.

 

The standard axles have been known to snap or flex a little. This can flexing can give, as Andrew states, pad knock back and a longer pedal travel.

 

Roger

 

Do the standard stub axles really flex that much?

 

Much of the pad knock back that is ascribed to stub axle flexing is play in the wheel bearing - either because it needs nipping up a little or because it is worn or likely as not the poor quality repro ones.

The anti-knock back kits have a sleeve, not so much for strengthening but more to enable the wheel bearings to be adjusted correctly without stressing them by being too tight.

 

As with all things thy can break or be broken.

Edited August 28, 2014 by andymoltu

[GUY BENNETT]

CV's are not even in the top 10 MOT failure list!

CV's are fitted to just about every FWD car around today and many RWD cars too.

What is the problem.

I have driven vehicles where they have done over 250,000 miles.

[jean]

Guy, I have seen quite some knackered CV shafts in my local garage, myself I never had one, but it's mostly the boy racers that can't drive away without spinning the wheels.

 

On the other hand I well remember that the CV problems started when about 30 years ago car makers went to fit 250hp+ turbo engines in FWD cars. This caused them quite some problems.

It was the time when for their FWD rally cars car makers had move forward to 4WD to cope with the power , Audi had seen it a few years earlier.

 

Guy, there have never been CV made for TR's so they are not a factory design, they are now probably a mixture of modified and existing parts . This could cause reliability problems, but

not necessarily.

My case is that the rear Classic Koni's with a longer travel could eventually put exessive stress on the joints, They have an internal bump stop what's different from the lever arm stop.

With standard shafts on splines they pose no problems, but homokinetics might act different.

 

Any good ideas are welcome....

[stuart]

The argument against The use of CV jointed shafts in the case of the TR application is that on a standard FWD application the wear is even on the joint as it is run through its whole range as the steering goes from lock to lock. In the TR application its not, its running over a very small range of movement so can wear more quickly in this area.

Stuart.