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Adjustable upper control arms


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Thanks Neil for the link

 

I had looked at those but the price put me off to be honest (although I know you get what you pay for)

 

It was more value for usage, car will get monthly track use, weekly road use

 

And I will probably want a set for the TR6 too

 

Hence the Revington ones interested me at about £150 a set

 

Graze

Edited by Graze
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Graze,

 

Two saw cuts and internal welded flitches on each of the upper wishbone arms, (remove about 10mm) takes about 2 hours, costs almost nil. If you're not happy with your own welding expertise you should find welders near you to do it for a couple of cans of the Amber nectar ! hic.

 

Before we have any other posts describing how it messes up the geometry it's only when it gets to the last 1" travel and the arms angles go acute does it mount to a significance. I did it to mine confident that the number of times I'd be using that area of travel would be insignificant and it was, never noticed any corruption of the suspension performance.

 

Mick Richards

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Thanks Mick, I've got a slightly distorted chassis as it happens ( currently neg1 camber on driver's side and zero on passenger) so I need some fine tuning to get it right - not sure of the maths to adjust the passenger wishbones only ang get neg1

 

Graze

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Graze,

 

The 10mm will give you about 2 deg neg, (dependent upon running height) my guess would be 5 mm should be good to go for 1 deg.

You could mock it up with the chassis on running height without springs and then take a 2 mm cut out of the wishbones on the damaged side, either tack the wishbone together or clamp and measure the change in the wheel camber. It should give you an incremental change and then you could make the final cut of the wishbones dependent upon the new camber reading, as I say I'd approximate 5 mm will be needed.

 

Considering the crudity of the chassis and the suspension setup you should be able to make a workmanlike job by doing this.

 

 

 

Mick Richards

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Mick/Graze - Just checking which upper wishbones you have (TR3-type or TR4A-type), in case it makes a difference on how much to cut out.

 

I realise this might be a stupid question...;-)

Edited by TorontoTim
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No stupid questions, just clarifying questions, my wishbones are the later 3 deg castor same as on the TR4a.

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.

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Wouldnt it be better to find where the chassis is distorted and see if that can be sorted?

Stuart.

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