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Hi all,

Just changed the oil on my gear box (with overdrive). It's a 1959 TR3A. I've used MS SAE30 mineral oil via CALDO oils Ltd which is local to me. Looking at the books this seems right. I used MS EP90 GL5 gear oil in the diff and MS 20w/50 in the engine. The car feels noticeably different when driving (haven't driven far). I'm fairly certain it's the gearbox that feels different (used the engine oil for a long time but first gearbox and diff change of oil). Box feels easier to change gear when cold. Am I using too thin an oil?

Neil

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Hi Neil,

the boxes work OK on SAE30. Being slightly thinner it may leak more (if that is possible).

Like Ashley I also use Penrite SAE 40.

 

My gearbox overhauler suggested 20/50 (not necessarily engine oil), when I mentioned Penrite 40 he said "excellent".

 

Have you got an overdrive on the GB. That is where the improvement may be.(just my opinion)

 

Roger

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I am currently using a very basic 20W 50 engine oil ("Formula 1") following Hardy's recommendation (they re-built my O/D).

It is all working very well.

 

Bob.

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Thanks guys, car does have overdrive. gearbox doesn't seem to leak, we'll up to now. Although would be difficult to tell as the engine does leak from the back crank seal. I'll see how I get on with the 30 grade.

Neil

Edited by NCS_TR3A
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Thanks Tom,

Had looked at these but believe it's an engine out job. The leak is small at present, a few drips. Whilst I check engine oil between changes it doesn't need filling up. However if it's easy to fit with engine in then I might have a go. I have had the gearbox off at one stage with engine in the car to try and see if I could change the seal but this was not possible.

Neil

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Hi Neil,

I recently had a look at this 'seal change insitu'.

Clearly it is possible with the crank in place but the rear bearing needs to be removed to be 'worked on'

 

Super Tom understates the few problems (but then he can do it up a ladder :P ).

 

After 150K miles my rear scroll seal had hardly any contamination on the rear face. Can't say the same for the front of the gearbox though.

 

So, now there are four seal configs -

1 - Fergie lip seal that sits in the block.

2 - ST scroll seal.

3 - Rover lip seal - requires the crank to be ground.

4 - Chris Marx lip seal - no machining.

 

I would love to fit the fergie seal to see what happens. But unlike CM's lip seal it will not go with the scroll.

 

Roger

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Hi Steve,

yes.

 

Roger

 

Thanks Roger. I now have two cans of EP90 (GL4) sitting in the garage and two cans of Penrite SAE 40 on order. Not sure what's going to end up in my replacement O/D gearbox when I fit it over the winter. Maybe I'll toss a coin. Or perhaps I'll just add half of each (joke!). After reading countless articles on this, I think SAE 40 may be the better option (for the O/D, although not necessarily for the G/B).

 

Steve

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Thanks Roger. I now have two cans of EP90 (GL4) sitting in the garage and two cans of Penrite SAE 40 on order. Not sure what's going to end up in my replacement O/D gearbox when I fit it over the winter. Maybe I'll toss a coin. Or perhaps I'll just add half of each (joke!). After reading countless articles on this, I think SAE 40 may be the better option (for the O/D, although not necessarily for the G/B).

 

Steve

Bung the Penrite Gear 40 in Steve. From all that I have read I think the EP is not the stuff for our O/D 's. My gearboxes/OD's seem to be fine.

Cheers,

Monty.

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Bung the Penrite Gear 40 in Steve. From all that I have read I think the EP is not the stuff for our O/D 's. My gearboxes/OD's seem to be fine.

Cheers,

Monty.

 

Well, that's the conclusion I've come to. The 2ltrs of EP90 will keep the diff topped up for the next 20 years.

In all probability I'm sure either would be fine, and with the low mileage I do, not worth stressing over.

 

Cheers,

Steve

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The re-builders of my O/D (Hardy engineering Leatherhead) told me to use the same viscosity oil as was used when setting up the unit.

they used a 20W 50 oil, so that is what I have used. using a thicker oil (ep80 / 90 etc would have resulted in higher internal pressures than desired.

I guess the same applies the other way round - if the unit was set up with thicker oil, then one should continue to use the same.

 

Bob.

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I believe that in the early days of the register the recomendation was EP90 etc for non O/D boxes, & engine oil for O/D boxes.

I think Penrite 40 (being a multigrade) is probably the best choice,but when I filled mine up last year I was not aware of it.

I would probably use that from now on - but I am not planning on draining the box just yet, as mileage is still low, & it's all working just fine.

 

Bob.

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Hardy's did specify a "basic" 20W 50 engine oil to me - I chose "Formula 1" - it is a no frills cheap engine oil for "older" cars

I also use it in the engine of my 1935 Hillman. Have gone for Comma Classic 20W 50 for the TR engine.

 

Once stocks have run out may change to Penrite (might also treat myself to a spin on filter - got very mucky during the last oil change !)

 

Bob.

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