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Brake and clutch pedal travel stop bolts


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I have in my hand a package of the Macy Stainless under bonnet fasteners and in the package there is a pair of mild steel jam nuts in addition to a pair of stainless jam nuts for the pedal stop bolts. The notation in the packing list says the mild steel jam nuts are to be welded to the master cylinder bracket in the event that the originals have gone AWOL.

 

Now my 1960 TR3A had no bolts limiting pedal travel and a google search is not helping. So I wonder who got bolts that limit brake and clutch pedal travel ?. Was it all sidescreen cars or did it stop when the master cylinder design was changed ?. Did some cars have nuts welded to the bracket for this purpose ?

 

Stan

 

 

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My Nov 1959 Tr3a had the holes and bolts washers and locking nuts fitted. Be careful if you fit them that the set up is followed to the letter as you may end up with brakes locked in. There is a fine line where fluid can return to reservoir and remain in cylinder keeping brakes locked on. The piston must return to the bottom of the travel to allow return port to be clear for fluid. Adjust too much and this becomes blocked.

For the long of leg amongst us it does allow a little adjustment to the pedal height from the floor.

If you have over large holes fit penny washer either side of the bracket and adjust against the pedal heel.

Rgds

Rod

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Thanks guys. So it sounds like they were eliminated at some point. Rod, does your master cylinder bracket just have holes at the front or does it have nuts welded at those locations so that you can wind in a bolt and use a jam nut to secure it ?.

 

Menno, a jam nut in this context is just a thin nut used to "jam" up against another nut to stop the piece from turning. The gearstick has a jam nut under the gear knob for example.

 

Stan

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Where stop bolts are fitted (prior to December 1957), clearance needs to be 1/16" to 1/8" before take-up of the M/C pushrod. This clearance is essential to allow full return of the pushrod to its internal stop washer.

 

Incorrect clearance posed a risk to brake integrity, so the stop bolts were deleted early in TR3A production (the holes remained in the M/C bracket). Thereafter, M/C adjustment was via the threaded pushrod fork. Allow 1/2" of pedal travel before the pushrod starts moving, then tighten the locknut.

 

Viv

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Bob, I was going on a reference from Service Information Bulletin # Sports/13/R of December 1957 advising dealers that stop bolts were to be deleted on future production.

 

I can't find the Engineering Change (EC) that gave effect, but obviously Original TR2/3/3A will be correct.

 

Rgds,

 

Viv

Edited by vivdownunder
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When I bought my TR3A brand new in 1958 (TS 27489 LO), there were no adjusting or limiting bolts or jam nuts for either master cylinder. I have the ones with the "vertical" outlet boss in the body casting as shown. This is how mine were originally.

post-1056-0-07724300-1407771266_thumb.jpg

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Stan - Once you have your TR on the road, you will get the "feel" of the clutch and brake pedals. If you have everything right (gaps, quality of master cylinders, etc. you may never need them. But if something feels funny at that time, you could try the bolts and nuts to see if it will help.

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