Front Apron Lettering

[Fireman049]

I am about to fit new 'TRIUMPH' letters to my front apron.

Do I fit the small plastic sleeves to the letters first and then push them into the apron?

 

Tom.

[Rodbr]

You have a PM

rgds

Rod

[foster461]

Moss Europe is supplying plastic inserts for these and not speed nuts ?

[Don H.]

My car originally had metal inserts for the head badge and rear nameplate (it didn't have letters in front due to bodywork before I got it, and I've left those off during rebuilding with a different apron). Here they are after Evapo-Rust treatment to clean them up.

 

 

I hate those Simmonds plate-type spire nuts. Don't tell anyone, but my rear T R I U M P H nameplate is held in place with neoprene double-sided body mounting tape.

 

One or more of the Mini (vehicle) vendors sells plastic inserts. Much better than those plate nuts in my book. Go for 'em, Tom. My experience with other cars is (1) place plastic insert, then (2) attach badge.

[Fireman049]

Thank you all for your help.

 

Cheers ~

Tom.

[Ian Vincent]

I put a small strip of 2mm neoprene between the spire nut and the inner face of the shroud, it provides a bit of give and allows you to push the spire nut firmly onto the peg at the back of the letters.

 

I also opened out the spire nuts a tiny amount so that they are easier to fit. They are definitely a one way trip.

 

Rgds Ian

[Fireman049]

Thank you Ian ~

 

Regards ~

Tom.

[Don Elliott]

I ran a small thread die up the round pegs that fit in the holes and now all my letters are held on by threaded nuts. Also my front bonnet badge and the three pegs holding the rear "TRIUMPH" name. This makes it easy to remove them for cleaning and polishing the paintwork.

[Don H.]

I ran a small thread die up the round pegs that fit in the holes and now all my letters are held on by threaded nuts...

 

I'm going to do exactly this on the reproduction red-black badge I have on my car, Don. (The original blue-white one is safely put aside). Did you have any special tips threading the posts? Cutting fluid, coarse v fine threads, etc.?

[Rodbr]

Why risk breaking the peg off. Why not use a piece of soft (ish) plastic tube that is the whole length of the peg. No friction of a washer and nut to break paint seal, and nice snug fit and dead easy to remove the badge if you want a clean polish of the apron.

Same deal for the letters small pieces of washer jet pipe cut to length.

Simples and job done with no pain.

[Don Elliott]

The letters and other words secured to all modern cars are held on by very thin transparent double-side tape. You rarely see cars today with missing letters.

 

Don - It was so long ago that I can't remember what I used. I suggest gentle force because the die has to cut through the chrome plating on the pin surfaces and I have a pint of tapping lubricant so I probably used that too.

[vivdownunder]

I was lucky enough to secure a NOS Stanpart front apron when rebuilding the current 3A. It came undrilled for the TRIUMPH lettering, thus adaptable for early or late fonts with different hole patterns. Only when mapping the holes did I discover that RIUMP went across in a straight line, with the end letters T and H dropping lower.

 

I ended up using the plastic inserts which looked like they'd be waterproof. Not important for the front apron, but helpful for the rear lettering where the original speednut arrangement let water into the boot.

 

Best fixing method was plastic inserts first then the letters.

 

Viv

[Fireman049]

Rod ~

 

That's exactly what I'm going to do. I've got small bore plastic tubing which is ideal for the job!

I've also got small (pop rivet) plain washers which I'll fit over the pegs inside the apron then push

the plastic tubing over the pegs.

The letters etc. will be much easier to remove should the need be.

Many thanks for that tip.

 

Tom.