Rodbr Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Odd query I think. Scenario: rebuild box now done about 1100 miles. Selecting reverse with lift and back to right.I have noticed that when selcting reverse the lever goes over to the right and seems to pass the gear selection slot as of there is a stop missing. Not a major issue but irritating non the less when you think you are in reverse only to find a box full of neutrals! Also noisy gear lever vibration on hard acceleration, reduced by holding gear lever. Any suggestions? thnx Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi Rod ~ Are you able to try another gear lever? I wonder if the 'slot' in the ball of the lever is worn or too long allowing the lever to travel too far to the right. Try fitting a small distance piece to the top of the 'slot' to prevent the lever travelling too far over. Have a look at the lever securing cross bolt. Is this worn? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 All real TRs rattle the gear lever when accelerating hard - it's intended to indicate to the driver that s/he is trying hard! Can be reduced by fitting the anti-rattle spring & plunger in the base of the lever, but often these disappeared years ago. For peace and quiet, buy a Rolls Royce. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 My 3A is fitted with a four synchro. gearbox. I bought the anti-rattle spring and plunger but couldn't find anywhere to fit it?? Any advice? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Rod, I had exactly that problem until I realised that unlike my TR6, the 4A box has a through bolt that Tom refers to and I'd tried to install the lever as per the 6 with two opposing studs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi Tom, I know exactly where to stick your spring and plunger However with the gearstick removed you should see a hole/cavity where it would go on the stick. It may be that your old plunger is blocking the hole and needs to be teased out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi Roger ~ So that's where you fit it!! I've just removed my gear stick and there is absolutely nowhere to fit the spring and plunger. Is my four synchro. box from a 4 or 4A I wonder as I believe that the spring and plunger were omitted from later boxes? Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi Tom, The following from Moss catalogue. 13 122075 £0.93 SPRING, anti-rattle 1 { TR2 From TS2876,14 112424 £3.04 PLUNGER, anti-rattle 1 } TR3-3B, TR4-4A(Failure to install the spring (item 13) & plunger (item 14) can result inTR gearbox ‘death rattle’. Ensure that the plunger slides freely). So appears to be used 4 and 4a g/boxes I wonder if I have lost mine or it is stuck as I don't remember this early on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I have two 'boxes from '74 and one from '69, they all have the sping and plunger. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Have you adjusted the gearlever locating pin? Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Jerry, Can you be a bit more specific? As far as I am aware there is one bolt at the rear which locates "gate" cap and a through bolt that provides pivot for gear lever. After discussions last night have come to conclusion that the thin "gate" cap may have become worn allowing lever to go too far to the right. Will examine and revert. No biggy provided I remember about it and don't panic. The "death rattle" I can also live with and reminds me I'm still alive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) I could be wrong but it sounds like Jerry is referring to the problem I experienced above which doesn't apply with a cross bolt locating the gear lever ball. Is the cap with the spring behind it sitting too high for some reason? Edited July 31, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Sounds more like wear in the selector fork cup due to PO `s not lifting the gear lever to select reverse properly. If the selector fork cups are very worn then the anti rattle pin can spring out and either disappear or end up laying in the grease on the selectors. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Hi Roger ~ So that's where you fit it!! I've just removed my gear stick and there is absolutely nowhere to fit the spring and plunger. Is my four synchro. box from a 4 or 4A I wonder as I believe that the spring and plunger were omitted from later boxes? Cheers ~ Tom. You may have an early gear stick fitted. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Has anyone a drawing or photo. showing where the anti-rattle spring and plunger is fitted? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Hi Tom, Check out page 28 of the Moss catalogue it goes into a hole at the bottom of the lowest point of the gear lever. It may not seem obvious if yours is stuck or coated with grease. Found this fix. "GEARSHIFT LEVER CHATTER: The simple corrective measure has been dealt with in a separate Bulletin which seems to have been overlooked by many service shops. Therefore, to briefly recapitulate, remove the gearshift lever knob and boot, remove the top cover bolt and cover together with the inner cover and spring. Slide down over the gearshift lever a fairly heavy piece of rubber or neophrene tube 7/8" long and 5/8" inside diameter. Press it down until it comes in contact with the fulcrum ball. Reassemble and that is all that is necessary. The rubber or neophrene will act as a vibration damper in this position."After the installation, the hose had to be shortened a bit because its initial length prevented the lever from being pulled up far enough to go into reverse. Also, the rubber boot would no longer grip the edge of the hole in the tunnel, but the application of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive made it do so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Thanks Rod ~ There is no hole in my remote gear change extension which would allow any sort of spring and plunger to be fitted. Not that my gear lever ever rattled or 'buzzed' when I used to drive the car. I'll probably go along with the rubber tube modification. Cheers Rod ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 The adjustment I was referring to is described like this: "The similar procedure to above can be used to install the earlier shifter that uses retaining pins and cap except that retaining pins are not installed until after the cap is secured. In this case, the cap must be held down against the spring force while the small bolt in the rear of the cap is installed. The retaining pins are then installed through the cap. A final adjustment is required on these pins. The shifter in put the 1st/2nd gear position and then the RH pin is tightened until the shifter just moves and the backed it off 1/2 turn and the lock nut tightened. The shifter is put in the reverse position and this procedure repeated for the LH retaining pin." From the Buckey Triumphs site (also shows the anti-rattle spring) http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxCover/GearboxCover.htm Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 That doesn't apply to the through bolt method of locating the gear lever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Ah, Rod wasn't specific. Useful article all the same. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Thanks Rod ~ There is no hole in my remote gear change extension which would allow any sort of spring and plunger to be fitted. Not that my gear lever ever rattled or 'buzzed' when I used to drive the car. I'll probably go along with the rubber tube modification. Cheers Rod ~ Tom. Tom its fitted to the gear lever itself on the rear face of the bottom section that sits in the selector cups. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Hi Stuart ~ Thanks for that. I removed the gearlever but there is no hole in the bottom section. Just wondering, how would you fit the spring and plunger without it popping out whilst fitting? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Back to the 'box of neutrals' Which way round is the conical spring? The narrow end should be downwards. Is it the correct spring for the gear stick you are using. They changed the length and small end diameter in service when the gear stick went rubber bushed on cars with a bent stick. Ie TR6 stag saloon. So if you have a donor saloon gearbox with a real straight TR gear stick fitted and have used the donor g box remote assy your conical spring could be not pushing down on the g stick properly. I will chase out some spring and stick photos. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hi Peter, I think you may have come up with the answer. Inverted spring when paint shop removed gear lever during masking and they refitted it. Always felt a bit stiffer than before butI did not dismantle (way too many other things to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hi Stuart ~ Thanks for that. I removed the gearlever but there is no hole in the bottom section. Just wondering, how would you fit the spring and plunger without it popping out whilst fitting? Tom. A cable tie pulled up tight round it to hold it in place then a sharp smack down on the lever into place displaces the cable tie that can then be removed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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