Tim D. Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi chaps Already planning for the winter lay up. I have known since I bought the car that the chassis was ropey. Plenty of patching and some signs of more rust breaking through in places. So am thinking of swapping for a new(er) chassis. So firstly any hints and tips for the process. And secondly what other things are worth doing ( will be reconditioning the suspension throughout alongside new brake and fuel lines as well as boxing in the differential mounts and front suspension pickups) Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy K Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi. Be careful when you take the body off. You should brace it across from side to side and from A to B posts back to front. Otherwise you may be able to store in less space than you planned................ And get plenty of help! Andy K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Scrap it its knackered buy an Mx5 or a Ctm chassis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Don't worry, not planning on attempting to repair the chassis. Was thinking ctm or an ex- warm climate chassis that I may have found. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Colin Matthews (CTM) can advise on all the desirable strengthening required to ensure that an IRS chassis won't suffer the usual problems of cracks and breakages in suspension and differential mountings. Not cheap, but the cars are appreciating, so a new chassis can be viewed as both sensible and an investment - probably better than leaving the money in the bank! (Useful argument to use with one's better half!) Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Hi Tim, you need to plan everything in reasonable detail - what to do, when, why....... - Have you got space to remove the tub and then work on the chassis. If like me you have a single garage then consider making a lifting rig. I made mine from 3" square garden fence posts. One post in each of four corners then braced across and forward. The cross bracing had two scaffold poles to act act as winches. The rig had wheels, so could be easily move back/forth. The whole things sits over and clears the car. You can then pull the tub out of the garage to work on the chassis in the garage (ot tub outside) or pull the chassis outside for more access. One man operation to lift and fit. If you want a pic I'll try and scan one in. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 If you are going to the trouble of a body off chassis change then for the extra over a dry state chassis you would be better off buying a new one. You would need to make your mind up fairly soon as CTM do have a waiting list. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Would be interested in seeing your lifting jig. Have a triple garage with only 2 cars so plenty of room. Have emailed ctm but may phone tomorrow for a quote. Main issue seemed to be that they want a chassis in exchange and it sounds a bit of a faf to arrange shipping. Did a chassis change on a spitfire about 10 years ago and learnt there is nothing like having a load of blokes around to help lift. I removed the chassis alone using scissor and trolley jacks and it took 5 hours. Refitted using bloke power in less than 10 minutes !! Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 CTM only require the turrets i think correct me but they send you a chassis and you send either your old one back or the turrets back ?? looking to next year for my chassis but i have been saying that for a few years now david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Ok. That sounds more reasonable. Will phone them tomorrow Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Correct CTM like the front end with the turrets to be able to re-use the turret sections. They are quite happy to have them after you have dragged yours out from under as I believe they just surcharge you until they are returned. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Just spoken to CTM.. Yes they just want the turrets.. Price for a new chassis is about 2X what I have been quoted for a dry state chassis.. (mind you they do sound like the dogs B***ocks) Will think it over.. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 No real contest. 40+ year old one you cant see inside or guaranteed new steel. Though it depends on your circumstances. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 CTM usually has a display at the International (check whether Colin intends to be at Harrogate) - an ideal opportunity to view the offerings and workmanship, and to discuss your needs face-to-face. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Yes need to think.. bought the car for £6300 4 years ago The body of the car is pretty rust free (new floors and sills) and the engine is sweet (good oil pressure, PI running well, only issue a small oil leak from the spin on adapter and timing chain cover). Gearbox and OD was reconned 2 years ago, differential is silent replacement drive shafts fitted.. Issues are an orange peel paint finish, patched chassis and aging suspension at all 4 corners. Normally I don't keep cars for ever but the TR has got under my skin a little (love the engine and comfort of the car at speed) and have just finished a 1000 hour restoration of an MG midget so won't be without an old car to drive Was going to do the suspension this winter (favourate job!).. If I go the new chassis route I don't know will I recoup the cost in increased value? Also worried that it would start a bout of "shipwrights" disease.. e.g... Obviously with the chassis off will do the suspension... poly bushes all round?... telescopic rear conversion... new cupranickel brake pipes... braded hoses... uprated springs... while the body is off may as well sort the paintwork... Whle the engine is out... sort the leaks, new gaskets, new water pump, new main and big end bearings................ end product great car... much less $$$$... car not available for a year (could I do this in 7 months of 4 hours a week?) Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Why not do the things you can easily do with the body off.....brake/fuel pipes, suspension parts, springs (forget the telescopic conversion) get it back on the road then sort the other bits NEXT winter. You don't need the body off to respray nor do engine stuff (although it may give you an opportunity to sort any rust issues and respray the engine bay) Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 And repaint underneath, body coloured undersides makes lots of £££££ difference to the worth of a car. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Really. The midget restoration I have just completed has its underside coated in white stone chip to match the upperside. Must be worth a mint! I think stripping the underside of the tr6 may be hard work and I dont think they do stone chip in pimento ☺ Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Car already has the rear telescopic shock conversion that bolts to the inner wings. Not ideal so was thinking about changing it to one of the other types. Although I could try welding re - enforcing plates onto the arches? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CONCRETE24 Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi Tim, You will get lots if views about rear suspension conversions versus lever arms but be prepared for a consensus that the type that bolt to the wheel arches are the worst of all worlds! My 6 had them when I bought it and the rear end had a mind of its own - I went for the Revington conversion which personally I find excellent, (some are concerned about the stresses this puts on other components but I have had no issues). 10 years on - maybe I would have just reinstated updated lever arms if I had my time again - doesn't really matter. The best thing I did was definitely losing the wheel arch shockers though! That body is not designed to be an integral part of the suspension! Good luck with it all - I envy you if you get that CTM chassis! Regards, Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Interestingly the back end seems pretty planted even with the dodgy shock set up. The car went pretty we around spa. I just worry about the wheel arches fatiguing. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 CTM also do a shock tower that bolts to the original lever arm mounting and one other chassis point. If you buy a chassis, maybe you could 'blag' a pair. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) Interestingly the back end seems pretty planted even with the dodgy shock set up. The car went pretty we around spa. I just worry about the wheel arches fatiguing. Cheers Tim I would be very worried, they will. That part of the shell is not designed for shock mounting. Stuart. Stuart. Edited July 31, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 If you look at the Torque write up on the LeJOg TR performance didn't one of the entrants have a rear telescopic shock push right through the arch ? Snowy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 yes.. know what you mean about the wheel arch mounting.. Although it is not somthing I would like to keep I am sure failure is related to: 1) use (LeJog is pretty nasty in places) 2) shock absorber settings (the SPAX setup is inherently stiff) 3) condition of the wheel arch. (I had a seatbelt mounting on a spitfire rust out. The rust attached around the edge of the re-inforcing plate only.. similar corosion paterns with this setup could be nasty..) Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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