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alloy wheels and thread length advise needed


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I've recently bought some bolt on alloy wheels.

 

I counted the amount of full turns required to tighten the nuts and it was 6. That equates to about 10-11mm of thread.

 

Now that doesnt seem a lot to me but I have searched the forum and found a thread saying the standard nut it about 5.5 - 6 turns.

 

I'm sure Ive got the longer studs already fitted (there is about 25mm of thread showing), whats the general consensus here please? I dont want to have to change the studs unless absolutely necessary.

 

BTW the wheels are the tapered nut type.

 

Thanks peeps.

 

 

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Nick

 

My wheels take about 6 - 6.5 turns also

 

I have just bought an extra stud (as one was broken by PO) which is 1/2" longer - it arrived yesterday - I'll measure it for you

 

Graze

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Hi Graze

 

I've decided to bite the bullet and replace all the studs as 10mm thread doesnt seem enough to me. I've ordered 1" extra length studs because the 1/2" extra length will end up about the same length as I already have.

 

I aint looking forward to doing this job. :unsure:

 

I should end up with about 20-21mm of thread engaged.

 

Problem comes when I decide I prefer the standard steel wheels and find I cant get the bloody hubcaps on!!

 

Nick

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Hi Nick,

usual guide is 8 turns minimum. This equates very roughly to the thread grip=diameter.

 

Your avatar shows a TR4.

The front studs are relatively easy to change but your rear ones could give you problems. They are screwed in and then peened over or welded.

 

Have fun

 

Roger

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Nick

 

Measures 24mm of thread from the collar and 28mm overall

 

Yours should be about 35mm of thread which will undoubtedly be better

 

But as roger says they are a b@/-!h to get out

 

I used heavy duty 263 (I think) to re install

 

Graze

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Graze, you are right they are 35mm.

 

Roger, why do you say the fronts are easier than the rears? Are they fitted in differently or is it a matter of access? Ive had all this apart in the last year so I'm not anticipating much resistance :huh:

 

Did you grind off the peening or drill it off with an oversized drill bit?

 

I assume I then need to drill out the old threads to take the knurl? Are they all right hand threads?

 

Cheers Nick

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Hi Nick,

others have more detailed info but here is what I know.

 

TR4 front studs are a push fit - plain hole with splined studs. You may need to remove the disc to get the onlger studs in.

 

TR4 rear studs are screwed in - righthand thread. The back face is either peened of welded (not too sure) How you remove I don't know.

You can drill out and refit with the 4A splined studs.

 

Roger

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You may like to read this thread http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=27325&st=0&p=198853&hl=peening&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=198853 and others like it from the search facility. This will give you all the information you need.

Stuart.

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As they have a larger section of shank with a raised knurling on them you will find that they will lock nicely in the hole. You do need to be careful drilling the hole out to suit. Careful drill sizing is important.

Stuart.

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