dawn Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) Good Morning everybody, I need a little help and advice in buying some wheels . I am restoring a 1964 TR4 with a live axle. All the suspension has been renewed but not modified to any great degree, other than modern material bushes and upgraded shocks, same for the steering, standard but new. Now I must buy some wheels I would like to buy the widest that will fit the car without rubbing on anything so that I can run reasonably modern radial tyres. I am pretty sure I can go to 5" 60 spoke without much problem but how about 5.5" ? I think I can get those in 72 spoke but I seem to have read somewhere they interfere with the leaf springs aft . I like the look of the original pressed steel wheels personally but I believe that they are only available in narrow 4.5 widths and I dont want narrow cross ply tyres on the car. My apologies to the purists among you. If any body can help with some basic info or a source I would be most grateful . Thanks , best wishes all round Dawn Heaney Edited July 19, 2014 by dawn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) Welcome Dawn. There's a wide range of choice and I'm sure you'll get many recommendations. You mention 60/72 spoke wheels which implies you are leaning towards knock on wheels. You can get Minilite replicas with knock on adaptors and Tom will be along soon to recommend his choice of Dunlop replicas. If you want to retain steel wheels, TR6 wheels will fit and give you some extra width. Edited July 19, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Welcome Dawn ~ As Pete said, I've fitted Dunlop centre lock alloy wheels to my 3A. I much prefer the Dunlop's as opposed to Minilites. If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you some photo's. My rims are 6.5" wide with no problems. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi Dawn, Welcome to the forum, as Peter and Tom say there are many alternatives for you, Toms are very nice Dunlop wheels with centre spinners similar to those used on a Wire wheel (reasonably expensive) and Pete is correct the TR6 Steel wheel looks very similar to the TR4 steel wheel but is in 5.5 size. The 5.5 size will certainly fit on the TR4 and then take up to a 195 low profile tyre which will give the TR4 a very purposeful appearance but will require arms like Popeye to turn the steering wheel at low manoeuvring or parking speeds. You don't say whereabouts you come from but there's likely to be a local group not far away (in the UK anyway) and if you don't attend it might be a good idea to go to a meeting and ask if somebody with 195 fitted could let you drive their car. Most will be flattered enough to give you the keys, It's possible it may be a TR6 but for the manoeuvring purposes it will give a good idea of how "stiff" the steering will be with these 195 tyres fitted. As always there are many different opinions regarding the narrower or wider tyre fittings, with neither side being completely wrong or correct, contact your local group they can help. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) Welcome Dawn, Your car looks very smart and I can't believe that you have got this far without any help from the Forum. There is a very wide range of experienced TR owners and a reply for almost any question that you may have. This includes almost any problem on any subject. I have posted lots of problems and always had an answer. There will be different opinions but taking advice from other owners who have possibly made mistakes can help you to avoid the same pitfalls. A simple example is that if you want to overhaul your distributor there is only one person to approach and that is Martin Jay at Distributor Doctor. I would recommend always overhaul your existing component and avoid buying new. However modern starter motors are a great improvement. I have spent years on my TR3A and can assist with reliable repair companies for all the components. Tell us how you became involved in the project. Maybe see you at Harrogate for the IWE which will be a great week end and will encourage you no end. Good luck Richard & H Edited July 19, 2014 by Richardtr3a Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi Dawn, welcome to the forum. The standard 4.5" steel wheels will easily take 165x15 radial tyres (don;t know about 175 or 185). The 165's look very good and the car will respond very nicely with them. Big tyres may look meaty and g=have a bit of grrr but could give unpredictable handling. As for tyre selection have a look at Toyo and vredstein for the low end of the market (but still excellent tyres) and then you have Avon and Michelin for the bigger wallet. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Agree with Roger, I have 4.5 X 15 steel rims with 165 X 80 radial tyres & they look right, & drive well. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawn Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Thank you all for your replies Mickey brought up a good point there re: the slow speed manoevring of 5.5 J's with no power steering Looks like I will be staying with 4.5 wheels and 165 x 80 radial tyres like Roger and Lebro I would still prefer pressed steel wheels though something a little princessy about wires that I don't care for Can't find any new steel wheels from the usual suspects Ebay has a bunch of rusty ones I feel sure pressed steel tr6 wheels would be too wide Rub on the leaf springs at the back and the calipers at the front If you notice my car is left hand drive Should give you a clue where I am (Long way from Harrowgate) Thanks again to you all for your help Dawn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 I had TR6 steel wheels on my TR4 with no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Steel wheels are eminently findable, Dawn. I recently gave away eight TR3-3B ones as I converted my car to wire wheels. Finding them true is harder, and there will be a lot of folks who will strongly caution anyone against those earlier wheels for a car approaching race conditions. There are thousands of cars out there with them, and many more thousands of cars being slowly broken down for parts. A buddy of mine here in the biggest LHS-driving world has dozens of old wheels in a barn. Put the word out here or join the US Triumphs list at team.net and put out a call there. This won't be too hard. You'll have to change your mounting studs on the hubs moving from wire wheel adapters to disk wheels to get back some length, as I'm sure you know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi Dawn, Welcome to the Forum. Nice car and colour (color), I assume you are on this side of the pond, so what about TR250 steel wheels which are the same as TR6 but 5" wide. I have just put my TR6 on the road with 185/65 x 15 tyres on standard 5.5" wheels and I was surprised how light the steering is using a standard size steering wheel. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 The TR6 steel wheels, which are 5.5", are perfectly OK on a TR4 - there will not be any interference with springs or wings at front or rear, and on these you can fit tyres between 165 and 195 section. if using wider rims &/or tyres, you may need to re-set the lock stops at the front in order to prevent the tyre rubbing on the suspension on full lock - not a difficult job. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi ya'll ~ Just for the record my Dunlop alloy wheels are not 'replicas' they are genuine Dunlop 'D'-type Jaguar wheels. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Sorry Tom, I misrepresented them. Could you PM me the supplier details? Ta. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi peejay4A ~ I tried sending you a PM but I think your mailbox is full? If you'd like photo's of my wheels then please PM me your eMail address. Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) Hi ya'll ~ Just for the record my Dunlop alloy wheels are not 'replicas' they are genuine Dunlop 'D'-type Jaguar wheels. Tom. Tom, those have to be some seriously rare wheels, eh? Almost too good to put on a TR? Jaguar made more or less 87 D-types (including XKSS models). With the cars almost sixty years old and with pricing in the multi-millions, original D-type wheels have gotta be worth a ton. That and the fact that the S-N count is likely getting high on old aluminium, it might be good to put them to expensive pasture (ask Roger). You ought to be able to buy modern replica wheels with "reset" fatigue cycles, and a *very* nice dinner with the proceeds. Edited July 20, 2014 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Didn't D type Jags have 16" wheels ? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) The wheels Tom is referring to are new reproduction ones made in the style of the original Jaguar D type wheels Mick you are correct original D types ran with 16" wheels. Stuart. Edited July 21, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Ian My 62 TR4 is fitted with 5.5" knock on minilites fitted with 195 section tyres The front inner rim can rub on the top link under full lock in certain conditions - I hadn't realised that the lock stops are adjustable - is it straightforward to make adjustments, I think that only a minor adjustment will remove the issue altogether. I found that in going from 4.5" wheels with 165 tyres to the current set up made very little difference to the weight of the steering . Fitting wider wheels also highlighted the offset of the body more. I've subsequently viewed quite a number of cars to satisfy myself that I am not the only one afflicted with this problem Regards Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Stuart: The lock stop is a very thick washer with an off-centre drilling, mounted on the inside upper face of the trunnion - see P45 in Plate P of the TR4 Workshop Manual. It's probably buried under a thick layer of grease and dirt! Just release the fixing set screw (P46) and rotate the washer in a direction which will reduce the movement of the wheel which is on the inside of the corner (i.e. set the lefthand side lock stop to reduce the left lock, and vice versa). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Ian. Thank you for the advice regarding lock stops. All. What I have subsequently noticed is that the steering rack tends to reach its full extension on both sides just before the stops (adjusted to "max") are contacted, more so on the nearside. This brings me back to my previous comment that the body offset is more noticeable with wider wheels. Following a comparison of gaps it is apparent that the nearside wheel sits further from the upright, trunnion, top link etc than the offside does - hence the near side wheel appears "further out" in comparison to the wheel arch than the offside wheel does. Wheel / tyres and hub extensions are all new, similar, matching etc. Any views, comments or advice would be gratefully received. Regards, Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hi Dawn It is a temptation to fit wider wheels, but it does make the car look disproportionate and somewhat spoils the intended design. I ran standard 4.5 J Dunlop wires on mine with radials. All you will achieve is creating a greater scrub radius and loss of centre point steering which will make it twitchy on uneven surfaces. My advice us stick with original Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 (edited) It depends on what rack you have fitted, The higher ratio rack does have a slightly wider turning circle than the standard one. i.e. it wont hit the lock stops. Despite what it says in the book. Stuart. Edited August 1, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Stuart: The lock stop is a very thick washer with an off-centre drilling, mounted on the inside upper face of the trunnion - see P45 in Plate P of the TR4 Workshop Manual. It's probably buried under a thick layer of grease and dirt! Just release the fixing set screw (P46) and rotate the washer in a direction which will reduce the movement of the wheel which is on the inside of the corner (i.e. set the lefthand side lock stop to reduce the left lock, and vice versa). Ian Cornish For info - Lock stop on later IRS cars is concentric so not adjustable as we have on earlier TR's Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 So the later lock-stop is another example of Triumph's "improvements" - oh, dear! Stuartmac: as you have a TR4, I think you need to carry out some comparative measurements on the left & right sides of your front suspension to determine whether any items such as wishbone arms are of different shape/dimensions. It is possible to mount the arms upside down, which, if not done on both sides, would make a difference. Is the gap between top of tyre and the wing the same on both sides? If the car is leaning to one side, that will affect matters. I suppose it is possible that an accident in the hands of a previous owner could mean that both suspension turrets have been displaced to one side. The body may be located at a very slight angle fore/aft, which would make the suspension appear asymmetrical. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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