McMuttley Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Hello again all ! I have some further time on my hands whilst the refurbished damper that doesn't work is sent back and replaced with one that does, adding yet more time to the already significant labour costs getting the previously rusted up spring bolts out ! In the box of stuff yet to be fitted is the new alternator and narrow pulley kit. Does the front apron need to come off to fit the pulley kit - my man at the garage believes it does? If it does, is this a time consuming thing? If it is I am thinking that there are other things like taking out and flushing the rad that might as well be done at the sale time ! I am hoping this will be a long summer ! yours expectantly (ps, if the apron does have to come off, what else should i be doing (getting done) at the same time??? (don't say R&P conversion as I've used up the budget for 2014 !) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rhino_mac Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Apron has to come off to replace the rad so worth getting it out and flushing. Just had a quote to replace rad: £750 based on labour at £45 per hour. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Hi McMuttley ~ I overcame the tedious method of removing the front apron by modifying it. Please PM me your eMail address and I'll send you some photo's. Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 No it does not need to come off for both consult the tech cd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted July 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 sadly when i joined the register last year, I never u/s the potential future significance of the technicalities CD and paid no attention to where i might have filed it ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rhino_mac Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Technicians CD? Is that one of the CD's I got when I joined. [Mental note to investigate further] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 I think you probably could manage to change the water pump pulley, & crank pully / fan etc with apron on, but it will be difficult, and will undoubtedly result in many grazed knuckles ! & possibly damage to the rad. I had my apron off (if you see what I mean) a couple of weeks ago to fix a rad leak. it was not as difficult as I had feared. two people are required though to lift it clear. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted July 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Technicians CD? Is that one of the CD's I got when I joined. [Mental note to investigate further] Yup, one had video of men having fun in fields in TR's, the other apparently is full of useful stuff. I fear I may have 'recycled' both Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) I think you probably could manage to change the water pump pulley, & crank pully / fan etc with apron on, but it will be difficult, and will undoubtedly result in many grazed knuckles ! & possibly damage to the rad. I had my apron off (if you see what I mean) a couple of weeks ago to fix a rad leak. it was not as difficult as I had feared. two people are required though to lift it clear. Bob. Replacing the items with the apron on, can cause havoc to the radiator: it's easily perforated when you're working on the belt. First, I would suggest that you stick a piece of hardboard or a thin layer of triplex behind the radiator with the help of duct tape. Furthermore, it's very easy to damage the filler neck of the radiator, causing a crack in one of the corners... causing a leak - which case you still have to remove the apron. My advise: remove the apron! Indeed it will take some time to remove it, but apart from the job itself, it's pretty straightforward and not difficult. Before you set off to remove it, I would suggest that you douse the the bolts & captive nuts in liberal amounts of Plusgas to make sure you'll be able to remove them without shearing the bolts. Menno Edited July 16, 2014 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Replacing the items with the apron on, can cause havoc to the radiator: it's easily perforated when you're working on the belt. First, I would suggest that you stick a piece of hardboard or a thin layer of triplex behind the radiator with the help of duct tape. Furthermore, it's very easy to damage the filler neck of the radiator, causing a crack in one of the corners... causing a leak - which case you still have to remove the apron. My advise: remove the apron! Indeed it will take some time to remove it, but apart from the job itself, it's pretty straightforward and not difficult. Before you set off to remove it, I would suggest that you douse the the bolts & captive nuts in liberal amounts of Plusgas to make sure you'll be able to remove them without shearing the bolts. Menno Oh, if only the bolts did shear. The usual fiasco involves the nut turning in the cage. You can get some long pointy nosed Vise-Grips in the gap through the headlamp fitting holes to grip the cages if needs be, in a couple of places. Take the head lamps and grille out and squirt copious amounts of PlusGas or some other freeing oil at all the cage nuts a day or so before you start. Worst case is hacksaw down the apron the wing gap..... Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Take the head lamps and grille out and squirt copious amounts of PlusGas or some other freeing oil at all the cage nuts a day or so before you start. Indeed. Good to point out how to do it. M. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) I replaced all my body bolts with stainless. A small cost for the confidence that they will come apart easily in the future. Rgds Ian PS Westfield fasteners sell boxes of 200 1/4" UNF for about £25 Edited July 17, 2014 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Good idea, but did you also change the captive nuts with stainless? My bolts were new plated ones fitted on rebuild last year - so all came out easily. I do fit them with grease on threads which helps. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Oh, if only the bolts did shear. The usual fiasco involves the nut turning in the cage. You can get some long pointy nosed Vise-Grips in the gap through the headlamp fitting holes to grip the cages if needs be, in a couple of places. Take the head lamps and grille out and squirt copious amounts of PlusGas or some other freeing oil at all the cage nuts a day or so before you start. Worst case is hacksaw down the apron the wing gap..... Cheers Peter W Unless your trying to do it on a 2 or 3 where the headlamp pods are further back and you cant get to the captive adjacent to the bottom of them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Hi Austin, Just because the bits are there doesn't mean you got to fit them!!!!. I think you may have problems getting the fan extension piece bolt out without the radiator off. Save yourself lots and lots of cash, fit a new uprated dynamo that fits without any modifications at all, does the same as an alternator and looks more original. Water pump can be done without any major headaches. Leaky crankshaft oil seal ? Live with it and and put it on the listy The more you faff around with addons, the longer it takes to get the next thing you find sorted and you'll never finish. get the dynamo and fit it, lubricate the captives for the winter doesn't take that long to get at them. YOU WILL END UP HATING THE CAR IF YOU KEEP FINDING SOMETHING ELSE TO DO. They are a money pit but don't need to be if you plan ahead and don't get sidetracked. If it runs and will pass mot ( do what is necessary to make it so}, get it on the road as there is always the winter and just use it. You will learn so much about your car and what you really want the change. Talk to others when you have the car there and then perhaps make a list of things that you want to change and prioritise them and budget. Hi output water pumps, rack and pinion, etc etc are nice. IMHO if you want those sort of things get a TR4/ 4A, side screen cars are a lifetime apart and primitive so embrace that!! best regards Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 ...I fear I may have 'recycled' both Austin, where old TRs are concerned, NEVER thow ANYTHING away! No matter how broken or worn out or useless something appears to be, one is almost certain to want it at some later date for one thing or another. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 I apply the principal of "never throw anything away, 'cos it might come in useful one day" generaly. Much to my wife's dispair ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.