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Scuttle Vent Lid Replacement


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I have just completed (with a bit of help from Stuart), the ultimate 'Job from Hell', namely replacing the scuttle vent and operating mechanism.

 

Despite my best efforts to glue the seal in place as flat as possible and trim off any excess moulding from the edges, the cover will not sit flat enough to clear the rear of the bonnet. It only snags by a minuscule amount but it will be enough to chip the paint

 

I am not going to remove the vent flap ever again but does anyone know if there is a softer seal available than the standard Moss item?

 

At the moment I have a piece of cloth with a block and a large weight on top of the cover hoping it will compress the seal enough to provide clearance - failing that, it will be a tag attached to the Dzus key reminding me to open the flap before opening the bonnet.

 

Rgds Ian

 

PS for those who still have this job to do, a couple of tips:

 

  • Tie bits of string around as many bits as you can so that they are easier to recover when you drop them down the hole
  • Grind a point onto the end of the operating rod to make it easier to thread through the retaining ferrule on the vent operating lever
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Hi Ian,

I think you may find that the bonnet may catch when you open it to free the prop. It needs to be opened quite high to get the prop rod past the wiper motor etc. Just a thought. I would over weight it the get lid to sit lower against the tension of the rubber. It will spring back and probably perish before the car is ready the repro rubber seal is rubbish and I was lucky to have a couple of NOS originals which fitted perfectly.

The only real issue I had was the connection on the pill rod. Trial fit things off the car and lubricate copiously.

 

You could try putting a couple washers under the hinge to lift the rear a bit.

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Hi Rod,

 

Thks for the thought but fortunately the bonnet doesn't catch on the vent when it's open, only when it's closed.

 

There is no way that I am going to undo anything on it for while and the only way to get washers under the hinge would be to dismantle everything. I could lift the rear of the bonnet by a smidgen but that would also be a bit of a hassle as I would have to remove the glove box to get at the LHS and that was another tricky task to fit.

 

Rgds Ian

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I got my vent seal rubber from the TR shop.

It was a bit short in that it tried to "cut the corners" when fitted, but evostick, & lots of weight on the lid to force it down did the trick.

Bob.

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Hi Bob,

 

Mine came from Moss but was also a bit short and had a number of what I would have called flashings in my old plastic model building days and which had to be trimmed off.

 

I used Woolies top of the range 'Sticks to anything' glue to hold it in place plus a heavy weight overnight and it is definitely down in the right place. I suspect a couple of washer at the back under the hinge would have been a good idea but as I have said above, I am not undoing it now.

 

Rgds Ian

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Hi Ian

 

Well there goes my idea of mounting a Go Pro on the well of that flap AFTER first removing it, but I must admit mine fits perfectly even with the repro rubber seal.That reminds me, I have still to fit the drain tube for that.

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