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Hello all

 

Just a quick question, I don't know if anyone has asked this before but has anyone fitted their 4a with HS8 twin SU's like the pair advertised on ebay for £745.00. I've been following some of the feeds on Webbers etc and from what I can tell they seem to be a bit of a pain to get running right, at some point I'd like to fit something other than the Strombergs currently fitted.

 

I like the idea of the SU's as I'm reasonably familiar with them from my Mini days. My plans for my 4a engine is to do a reliable fast road upgrade on it and would like some imput to help formulate my build plan so do I go for the HS6 OR 8 SU's or is there any other options that are hassle free and reliable mods that produce the goods for a fast road engine?

 

I look forward to what the forum gang think?

 

regards

 

Gavin

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Hi Gavin ~

 

Most certainly fit HS6 carburettors. HS8's are far too big because you'd never get the full potential of the HS8's

because of your engine size. A 4.2L 'E'-type Jaguar uses HD8 carburettors.

 

Regards ~

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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Graze

 

I ordered Mikunis from Vintage Performance - plenty of e mail correspondence up until the point of order - then nothing. Finally I took it up with Paypal who refunded my money.

 

A bit of research on the internet came up with a few similar stories - apparently his mail order system was / is a bit haphazard

 

You may be waiting some time if this is where you have ordered them from.

 

Regards

 

Stuart

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Stuart

 

he has been slow but has kept communicating

 

too late for paypal now

 

I hope you are wrong

 

Graeme

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I must admit like Paul I will be interested in seeing where the Mikuni avenue leads as they do look interesting and are a totally different to the Webers, but are there any Dellorto carbs that fit the triumphs as I remember they were an alternative to Webber on the VW's I had but again I've not seen any reference to them?

 

Gavin

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I have twin 40 Dellortos fitted and am very happy with them.

Stuart.

DSC04702_zps06966d7d.jpg

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Hi Stuart

 

They look as if the are a nice fit, how are they for setting up and do they deliver good power though the range? what else are you running in there liner size, cam wise and head mods? and are you using the original fuel pump or a lekkie one? and is that a fuel regulator and a viscus fan I can see ? Lookin forward to a bit more info. Have you had any experience with these Mikuni carbs?

 

Gavin

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In all honesty my cars run better and with more power if they've been on a rolling road with someone who knows his job setting them up. You nearly always get 10 more bhp and sometimes 20. Rich had a customer's E Type sorted and it leapt from 90 to 190bhp and got more torque, which is more important.

 

For example, Webers are well known to give more torque than SUs on a TR engine if you can stand the row.

 

I'm near Stroud and www.spamspeed.com is definitely the man. He's made profound improvements to Flathead V8 Fords, a 5.7 Litre Hot rod, E Types and XKs, Bentleys (mine included) Healeys (mine included)lots of TRs, VW Beatles and most of the Rotary Club seem to have 75 bhp Morris Minors. He also rebuilds loads of different engines and does his own machining boring, grinding and balancing. Most of all he's a lovely, kind bloke.

 

Standard 4 cylinder TR engines give 80-84 BHP and more torque with Webers set up properly. He has the bits.

 

Otherwise anything you do is guessing. ;)

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Hi Stuart,

I notice in your pic of the car engine bay that your coil is upside down.

 

Do you not realise all the electricity will fall out.

 

Roger

Believe it or not the only coil you can easily find that is intended to be installed upside down is a Bosch VW one. It's vacuum filled with oil. All the others don't have enough in them if they're inverted and can overheat and fail and some leak, or so I was told by an expert.

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Maybe that was the case in the day's of yore but now the modern igniton coils are filled with epoxy resin and it hardens forming and insulated coating for the windings, you also now find the same resin inside 110v transformers instead of silica (sand). Maybe the way Stuart has his coil makes the spark go faster down the HT lead? or maybe gravity helps with the path of least resistance?

 

Gavin

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Maybe the way Stuart has his coil makes the spark go faster down the HT lead? or maybe gravity helps with the path of least resistance?

 

Gavin

Suspect he did it to save a few bob on the cost of the longer leads needed, if it's the other way up.

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Hi Stuart

 

They look as if the are a nice fit, how are they for setting up and do they deliver good power though the range? what else are you running in there liner size, cam wise and head mods? and are you using the original fuel pump or a lekkie one? and is that a fuel regulator and a viscus fan I can see ? Lookin forward to a bit more info. Have you had any experience with these Mikuni carbs?

 

Gavin

Provided you can find someone who understands Dellortos they are very good carbs. They have finer tuning options than Webers.

My engine is 87+ a bit with standard cam, a bit of head work courtesy of Reynards night shift SAH copy 4 branch and single 60mm exhaust. Fan is standard TR6 plastic type.Original mechanical fuel pump with a fuel regulator. Distributor Doctor dizzy custom curved for the engine with points ignition

Power output "Sufficent!"

The coil is an old original Lucas gold from the eighties and that position was just a trial at the time and got left as it was because it works fine.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart

 

Thanks for the info, I'm in the process of putting together a build plan for my 4a and gathering as much info before I start buying any parts so I don't make any expensive mistakes wasting money on things that I don't need or won't work. So far I've been concentrating on replacing the missing parts from the engine so I can get it running and see what works and what doesn't.

 

The bodywork is a bit battle scared but in good shape and the chassis is not too bad either just a bit of rot at the rear box sections after the cross tube and a wee bit on the bottom of one of the trailing arm cross members and a bit of stress fracturing at one of the diff mounting studs on the main spring carrier cross member just the usual bits really.

 

I must admit I like to personalise my cars but I like the subtle look and understated power with a few modern tweeks and hopefuly a reliable fun runner. The only problem is geography and like Ian in Glasgow there are not any tr specialists close to hand so all but the impossible will be done by my own fair hands.

 

Gavin

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Maybe that was the case in the day's of yore but now the modern igniton coils are filled with epoxy resin and it hardens forming and insulated coating for the windings, you also now find the same resin inside 110v transformers instead of silica (sand). Maybe the way Stuart has his coil makes the spark go faster down the HT lead? or maybe gravity helps with the path of least resistance?

 

Gavin

Not quite correct. Oil is still the best way to cool coils and nearly all are oil filled and if you shake them you'll hear it and if you turn them upside down, part of the windings will not be immersed unless it's a proper VW coil. Some leak too.

 

Epoxy coils are made for applications where shock damage is a possibility. PerTronix do one for desert racers for example, but they are not the most efficiently cooled and may not last as long as an oil filled one.

 

You can tell I've had a lot of problems with coils. ;)

Edited by Ashley James
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Thanks for the info Ashley, must admit I'm just going back to the old ways as for the last 12 years I've been running diesels and the rav4 runs individual coils for each plug, but I never had any problems with ignition coils when I had my VW's or Mini's and certainly no leaks. What coil brands have you had problems with and I'll stay away from them.

 

If they are oil filled, I don't know if it's the same as the oil sometimes found in the old 3 phase switch gear and some of the old capacitors and resistors that can be carcinogenic so handle with care and dispose of carfully (rubber glove time!)

 

gavin :D

Edited by stargazergs
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Not quite correct. Oil is still the best way to cool coils and nearly all are oil filled and if you shake them you'll hear it and if you turn them upside down, part of the windings will not be immersed unless it's a proper VW coil. Some leak too.

 

Epoxy coils are made for applications where shock damage is a possibility. PerTronix do one for desert racers for example, but they are not the most efficiently cooled and may not last as long as an oil filled one.

 

You can tell I've had a lot of problems with coils. ;)

The one on mine must be a good one then as its run in that position for at least the last eight years with heavy abuse and high ambient temperatures.

Stuart.

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I like the look of Stuarts Dellorto's and looking into the rebuild kits they seem quite accessable but what inlet manifolds are you using Stuart?

 

Is there anyone out there in TR land thats fitted and run the Makuni's as I'd like to keep my options open and would like to hear from them with their opinions?

 

Gavin

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Get on triumph experience forum in US and search TR4 forum a guy named Jim from Colorado is running them on his race TR. He is very helpful and convinced me to buy them

 

Graze

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