elclem1 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hi everyone, does anyone have a set of instructions for fitting a kenlowe fan, It was bought from TR shop. The box has been open for a while and instructions lost. Any help is welcome thank you. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 If no joy here, I'd suggest contacting Kenlowe direct. I'm sure that they could fax or email to you a set of instructions for your fan. Contact details here: http://www.kenlowe.co.uk/contact/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Try this. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I have original ones in my briefcase and can scan, please pm me if the above post is not enough. It covers the fan and the thermostatic control, wire colours etc. R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 i have a 10" in a box bought last year - with instructions. pm me your email and i will scan and send over this eve regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRnorm Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 (edited) I notice that the instructions posted by Stuart say that the fan should come off the switched side of the ignition switch. I'm wondering if there is merit in using an un-switched supply so that the fan can run-on if the temperature is too high. I've had a few cars where this is the norm, and in fact, a necessity on a couple of them. I'd be interested to know what is the usual practice for the TR4 as I'm just about to get to that stage of my rebuild. Regards Norman Edited May 25, 2014 by TRnorm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I have wired mine via the ignition circuit on the basis that if the engine is not running, then water is not being circulated, so you would not be cooling the engine, only the rad - which will cool pretty quick anyway with no fresh hot water being pumped into it. Flak shields up Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Satchwell Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I would second that, also have seen a few flat batteries when the fans have continued to run. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I've tried both ignition and un switched power supply for the fan on my PI 6 One benefit of the un switched fan's running after engine shut down does seem to be easier starting. I'm thinking that the fan provides some cooling of the fuel injector pipes which reduces evaporation? Whatever the reason starting after a hot run does seem to be improved. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I favour killing the fan when the ignition is switched off, for the reasons outlined by Bob and David. I turn off the power isolator, which is located on the left side of the dashboard, when stopping for more than a couple of minutes If vaporisation of fuel is a worry, then releasing the catch on the bonnet (TR4/5/6) will create a natural draught which should cool the area around the exhaust and inlets. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted May 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Hi guys thank you for the many replies, final question, best to leave the original fan in and use the kenlowe as a back up? Cheers andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Andy One of the advantages of having an electric rad fan is that the crank driven fan saps about 4bhp from the engine due to the drag. The electric fan is far more efficient and operates when required unlike the original. I've had a two speed pusher fan fitted to my GT6 for many years and it rarely cuts in under normal driving so you can see the advantages. If you're worried about failure of the electric fan relays etc, fit a "chicken" switch in the cabin. This should be wired direct to the fan-my setup isn't a Kenlowe so I don't know if the kit will come with this as standard. Any heater fan motor switch of suitable vintage will do the job. I think mine came from a scrap Humber Sceptre and looks the part. The other advantage of using this type of switch is that it usually has a fan type motif on it. I would also caution against a fan wired to run on after the ignition's cut-a flat battery is a distinct possibility. The sensor may allow the fan to run on for long periods without the circulation of coolant, especially since it's placed in one of the top hoses where it's at it's hottest. Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I mounted mine on the front of the radiator on some brackets which were riveted to the side of the radiator casing. I have an override if the thermostat does not cut in. It pushes fresh air in and is out of the way in the engine bay of my 3A. The original fan is still there and does the job 95% of the time.. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 No mechanical fan on mine and both of my recent TRs have had a permanent feed to the fan with no problems. If you're of a mindset that worries about such things then disconnect the boot lamp too if you have one as that's more likely to fail on and not be noticed. In my opinion of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Norm, I always wire the control to a permanent live - the sensor is in the bottom hose, so normally cuts out fairly soon after a "hot"drive. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 It should be able to run on.Never had a flat battery yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRnorm Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Perhaps a good compromise, with respect to the run-on issue, is to incorporate an "off-delay" timer that allows the fan a limited time to run-on - that is if you don't mind the added complexity. That way no possibility of running the battery flat. Norman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hi Norman, the 'off-delay' timer is the cooling air through the rad. After a hot run the fan may come on but only for a minute or two. Having an extra delay circuit may cause problems through further complication. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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