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After rebuilding my 3a all is going well and started up fine after winter lay off and a testament to fuel stabiliser, it does work!

 

The first trip out was every thing I hoped for until!!!! ................ I used the brakes. Violent pull to the offside

So initial reaction was to check the left side caliper.

Wheel off an find sort of greasy residue on the disc, pads out and again a sort of greasy glaze on them.

I have not had to use the brakes in anger and all seemed fine bedding things in nicely.

 

I did clean the storage grease off the discs with alcohol before and wiped over the pads in case of contamination.

No bearing grease leakage, have cleaned disc surface with meths and also the pads and removed glaze till grey pad material visible.

No brake fluid leakage.

Greased the caliper pistons and rubber gaiters to ensure that pistons are free.

 

Suggestions please.

If I replace the pads with a view that the fitted ones are contaminated would the discs need a glaze busting as well?

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Not exactly the same but when I bought my last tr the brakes were terrible.

 

After much head scratching I replaced pads and disks and could not believe the difference.

 

The pads and disks seemed quite brown in appearance, and despite cleaning were clearly contaminated with something.

 

So for the modest price of disks for a TR perhaps consider replacing to be on the safe side.

 

Steve

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Old emergency trick Rod . . . .

 

Take off the pads and disc, chuck them in a metal tray, wash them off with half a cupful of petrol, stand well back and chuck a match in the tray.

 

At the risk of stating the obvious . . . . . outside !

 

Then clean them up with fine sandpaper.

 

Decontaminated if they're ever going to be.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Hi Steve,

All new parts parts fitted and only done 700miles after back on the road after 30 years.

Hi Alec,

Kind of gone there, can't see newly fitted discs will be the problem but wonder if the preservation coating hasn't come off properly. Would normally dissolve with neat alcohol.

I'll take it out and roast the brakes a bit and replace the "new" pads if necessary................bugger!

Edited by Rodbr
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Move one pad from the left to the right to balance the pull?

Re bleed the RH front brake.

Check all the pistons are moving correctly.

Clean any glazing off with wet and dry.

 

Whose pads are they? Did you go for 'racing' or 'high performance'?

Do they need bedding/burning in ?

article from EBC mentions that here is a top coating for initial use.

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-your-new-brakes-for-streeturban-driving-2/

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

PS That all said my TR brakes are spot on with good old Girling asbestos pads.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Cheers Peter,

Original Girling asbestos pads but have no idea about the new discs and possible coating. Have cleaned with alcohol and given a rub over with wet and dry so hopefully should get it cured now.

Pistons are new and lubricated with Penrite caliper grease all moving freely.

Bled and solid pedal.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Worst case is that I have a NOS set of Ferodo DS11 pads in my parts store whilst being more difficult to get the working temperature are at least asbestos ones.

OUCHY!!!!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-FRONT-GREENSTUFF-BRAKE-PADS-DP2100-TO-FIT-TRIUMPH-TR-3-2-0-56-57-/300748144067?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4605fc7dc3

Rgds

Rod

Edited by Rodbr
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Hi Rod

 

EBC greenstuff get mixed reviews, they were ok on a previouscar of mine, and should cost about £50 !

 

steve

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Ok, went out and gave them a bit of a roasting and discs cleaned up a treat, we bit smoky but getting there. Not particularly happy but will continue with the "dirty" pads for a few miles but at least it doesn't take a dive to offside now.

 

Only issue is that the brakes are a bit squirrilly so perhaps now things are bedded in I need to play with rear brake adjusters now things have settled down.

 

 

How hard are DS11 pads?????????????????

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